Propeller chink : ok or replace?

pdxsearay

pdxsearay

Member
Jun 4, 2020
89
Boat Info
2005 Sea Ray 185 Sport
Engines
4.3 merc
Thoughts on whether this warrants a replacement or if not big enough chink to affect performance?

both pics are same fin, different angles.

what would a replacement prop cost? Assuming I could install myself.

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For the cost of a replacement blade, I would say yes, replace it. they are easy to install as long as you have the proper tool to get to the nut. When you put the new one on, keep the old one.
a similar thing happened to me last year. I bought a new one and now keep the dinged up one on the boat Incase it happens Again, but worse. This way, I will have a replacement to get me somewhere.
A chipped prop like that will ultimately lead to other, more expensive issues from the prop being out of balance
 
Thanks all.
Any brands on amazon to target or avoid? I'm seeing quicksilver, qiclear, young marine...they all seem pretty similar. Also, from some internet research it looks i would want a 14 x 19? (2005 sea ray 185 sport with a 4.3 merc and i believe alpha one drive)

also if i am just replacing the propeller, then am i correct in assuming i dont need the hub kit?
 
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Easily repaired at a prop shop. This was a yearly event with our kids when they ran Boston Whalers.
 
My prop shop charges $70 to repair aluminum, and a new Turning Point Hustler is $90. It's always a tough call.
 
I would replace. I've always had good luck with Michigan Wheel.
 
Fix and keep as spair prop. I always have a spair on the boat. E bay, Hustler turning point is cheap enough and good quality.

Nothing will ruin a weekend if you screw a prop on a Saturday and have to leave it in the slip while you drive around like a lunatic trying to find one. I have a spair parts bag with me at all times. Spair prop, hub and prop wrench, belts, solenoid, and duck tape and zip ties. Boaters should always turn into macgyver when your friends are on the boat and your frustrated as hell
 
Thanks everyone. For this scenario I don’t need a hub , but you’re saying perhaps get one with a hub anyway so I have an extra , correct?
 
My opinion. I keep a spair a prop, hub, lock washer and nut. All zip tied together. If you ever tried to change anything in the water i can almost guarantee if Murphy's law applies. Something will drop in water............ most marinas have this kinda stuff just lying around. Can always just ask and say its for a spair
 
Will a 14.5 x 19 work (vs a 14 x 19)?

Edit: what i mean is, i believe i need a 14 x 19. but would a 14.5 x 19 also work?
 
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Anything will work. Just depends on what your boat calls for. My understanding of props are. Pitch and size. So if you have a 14 x 19. That means every complets turn your prop makes moves you forward 14 inches. If you get a 14 1/2 it will move you forward 14 1/2 inches. Size is the complete width of the prop. So larger moves more water. Just understand that a bigger prop and larger pitch is not always better. Your boat, drive and engine are set up for certain things. You tube props and you will understand. Also. Any good prop shop will lead you to the proper proper you need for what you are looking to do on the water.
 
Buy a new one and send this one to have it repaired. New one around $120-$150 a repair around $75-$100. I would stick with the Mercury/Quicksilver, Michigan Wheel or Solas for the aluminum prop. I would also buy a hub kit so you have a spare.
 
Thanks again everyone.

Hopefully my last question. This one here is a quicksilver, seems to be the right size, and says it uses the "Flo Torq II hub system". is that something i already likely have if i'm running on the OEM stuff (merc 4.3 alpha 2pc) or something that is aftermarket?

https://www.amazon.com/Quicksilver-...eller&qid=1591560082&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-11

edit: vs something like this which appears to come with the hub and listed as "universal fit". https://www.amazon.com/Amita-Prop-A...peller&qid=1591560082&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-1
 
Other thing you can do is call sea ray. Give them your hull number ( stamped on transom) they will give you a wealth of info on when it rolled out of factory. I did this to confirm my prop info. They also told me where boat was built and dates. I have a 1998 290 sundancer but my interiors is like a 1999. They said they changed model for 1999 in june of 1998. So i got the newer interior
 
The Sea Ray propeller chart for 2005 is at https://owners-resources.searayweb..../2005 Sport Boat Sport Cruiser Prop Chart.pdf . The prop that came with the boat was a Quicksilver 14 x 19 Stainless Steel Vengenance (4.3 MPI) or 14 x 23 Aluminum (4.3 MCM). The gear ratio was different for the MPI and MCM versions of the engine. Since your current prop is 14 x 19 I'm assuming you have the MPI engine.

My original prop was a 14 x 19 Stainless Steel and I run a 14.5 x 19 Aluminum without any problems. The first number (14.5) is the diameter of the prop and the second number (19) is the pitch. With the 14 x 19 my engine is very sensitive at the throttle but with the 14.5 x 19 its much more stable. I can still get to WOT so there's no issues there. Most likely either a 14 x 19 or 14.5 x 19 would work just fine.
 
The 14 is the diameter. The 19 is how far the prop would move forward in a zero slip scenario. A bigger diameter has more water surface contact, and very slightly less prop slippage.
 
Chip S said:
The Sea Ray propeller chart for 2005 is at https://owners-resources.searayweb.com/propeller-charts-files/2005 Sport Boat Sport Cruiser Prop Chart.pdf . The prop that came with the boat was a Quicksilver 14 x 19 Stainless Steel Vengenance (4.3 MPI) or 14 x 23 Aluminum (4.3 MCM). The gear ratio was different for the MPI and MCM versions of the engine. Since your current prop is 14 x 19 I'm assuming you have the MPI engine.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I believe I don’t have fuel injection, so therefore it would be MCM and not MPI? And therefore 14 x 23.
This would be supported by my current prop being black and not stainless. Unclear if it’s original.
 
The size of your current prop should be stamped on the hub. Can you currently get to WOT with your current prop? Can you get to WOT too easily with your current prop? If the boat was running fine before you damaged the prop then you might want to stay with the size prop that is currently on it.
 
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