Prop will not trim up after winterization

If you have SmartCraft check the voltage of the batteries. I had this happen to me just this week - same noises you were hearing. I switched to the other battery and it worked just as it should. Good battery - 12.5v bad battery - 8.8v. Not sure how it happened, but my tower speakers amp was on all night. I started the engine on the good battery and had 14.4v bad battery would never get to 14v with the engine running. I ended up buying a new battery.

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I ruled out the power supply and possible faulty pump by switching the pump leads and it worked...Thanks

David
 
Good luck, David. It's easy to do, but if you're going to tackle it yourself, and since it sounds like you're somewhat "new" to doing this, a few tips...

-- First, be sure to disconnect the negative leads from your batteries. Do not just turn off the battery switch.
-- Next, I would suggest totally removing the trim pump and bring it out onto the swim platform or workbench to work on. The few extra minutes it takes to remove it is WELL worth it.
-- Don't worry about the hydraulic lines - just remove them from the motor. When you put everything back together, you'll end up with a little air in the lines, but the pump will bleed itself by simply running the drive up and down. NOTE: have the drive trimmed all the way down before removing lines!!!
-- Remove the entire pump/bracket assembly as whole unit by removing the screws that hold the bracket to the boat. Take a look at how you'll reach the screws - things like a ratchet with extensions and screw bit can be very helpful.
-- Once you have the assembly out, take a few pictures of how the wires are attached. You may even want to label them.
-- As is standard in all service books... "Reassembly is reverse of disassembly". :smt001
 
Good luck, David. It's easy to do, but if you're going to tackle it yourself, and since it sounds like you're somewhat "new" to doing this, a few tips...

-- First, be sure to disconnect the negative leads from your batteries. Do not just turn off the battery switch.
-- Next, I would suggest totally removing the trim pump and bring it out onto the swim platform or workbench to work on. The few extra minutes it takes to remove it is WELL worth it.
-- Don't worry about the hydraulic lines - just remove them from the motor. When you put everything back together, you'll end up with a little air in the lines, but the pump will bleed itself by simply running the drive up and down. NOTE: have the drive trimmed all the way down before removing lines!!!
-- Remove the entire pump/bracket assembly as whole unit by removing the screws that hold the bracket to the boat. Take a look at how you'll reach the screws - things like a ratchet with extensions and screw bit can be very helpful.
-- Once you have the assembly out, take a few pictures of how the wires are attached. You may even want to label them.
-- As is standard in all service books... "Reassembly is reverse of disassembly". :smt001

I came really close to taking the whole unit out yesterday but was fearful of disconnecting the hydraulic lines and leakage...so I did the contortionist thing and took just the solenoid assembly off...which was a real pain...when I reconnect it next week, I will reassemble like you suggest out of the compartment...I don't think my body can handle me halfway inside the battery access again.

David
 
Great news..a little sweat equity, and I am back in business...replaced both solenoids for $32 yesterday, and works like a charm...Thanks for all of the advice...actually did not remove the pump, 'rebuilt' the solenoid unit at home, and just wiggled in and out a bit through the battery and engine compartments to reconnect....but I am only 5'4" so that helps....Used liquid tape product to seal all of the connection as it looked before... very happy now...

David
 

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