Project - Windlass install on a 290 Sun Sport

Cincy Aquaholic

Cincy Aquaholic

Active Member
Mar 15, 2009
1,329
Cincinnati
Boat Info
290 SS - 2016 Ford F250 Powerstroke
Engines
Twin 5.7 with Bravo 1's
Well, I'm planning to tackle a new project and thanks to this thread . . .

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/65598-260-Sundancer-Windlass-Installation-(2003-Model)

I think I have a good handle on what to expect albeit in a different boat. In fact, I anticipate my project will be a little bit easier because I have already figured out that running the wires won't be too difficult and the mounting location doesn't require any removal of hardware except the cover for the rode access to the anchor locker.

So, here begins my project thread. Thanks Kevin for helping me get started with your earlier post.

Initial info:

2004 290 Sun Sport. Installing a Lewmar V700G. Windlass was an option for this boat. Parts manual is helpful to show layout of the windlass and location of the contactor and solenoid. But before I get started I wanted to see if I could get a couple questions answered.

1. I have the soft touch pad buttons on my dash with the windlass buttons as well. Can I wire directly to those to control it? Or are those just blank rubber pads with no "switch" or terminals behind it? Has anyone wired directly to unused buttons before? Are these easy to remove from the dash to get behind it?

2. I understand what the contactor does but what does the solenoid do? The Lewmar instructions show a contactor and breaker but not a solenoid which is shown in my Sea Ray Parts manual.





More to come . . .
 
Another question. I poked around in my engine compartment found this. I assume based on the schematic above this is the emergency start solenoid BUT what would those wires that aren't connected be? Something tells me these are the wires from the switch panel. 2 positives (one for up and one for down) and one negative. If so this will make my life so much easier!



 
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While I no longer have my 260DA I am still around working on my 340SDA - if you have questions. PM me to get me attention if needed.

The solenoid is like a master on/off switch to the windlass system. If you have the switch pods like the ones on my 340 that would be controlled by the "anchor". I would probably wire that somewhere in leg A or B in your Lewmar diagram. Also note when I got my windlass the thermal breaker provided was a panel mount (for recessing) but you might want to get a surface mount one to replace.

The contactor is the control relay that you wire the switches to. Again if you have the same pods that is where the up and down arrows would get wired it as well as the foot switches, etc. This isolates the load current from the switches and can be a low gauge wire.

No sure about the wires in your picture but if they were tagged with numbers from Sea Ray then you should be able to locate them on the wiring diagrams.

-Kevin
 
Thanks Kevin. The explanation re the solenoid and the master on/off switch makes sense. I will investigate those wires further by looking behind the switch panel. I'm wonder if I put volt meter on them and push the buttons if I can find out if that's what they are for. More to come.
 
Kevin - I spent some time planning my install last night - looking over the various diagrams, pulling some access panels etc and I ended up getting confused by this solenoid issue. i was under the impression the solenoid on this boat would serve as the master power (anchor button) only and there would be a separate contactor for the up/down controls. But looking at the diagrams again the Sea Ray diagram ONLY shows the solenoid - no contactor and the Lewmar only shows the contactor - no solenoid. So, is the contactor that came with the Lewmar windlass all that I need to use both the master anchor power button and the up/down buttons?
 
The solenoid would control the 12V supply from the battery and switch on and off.
The contactor controls the direction of the windlass up/down.

So the contactor would be required but you could skip the solenoid and use the thermal breaker as your master on/off switch (just not as convenient if its mounting in the engine compartment.

-Kevin
 
I just checked the wiring diagrams from my owners manual and is shows it as a "control module" - also the one on my 340 is a Lofrans Progress II model.

[Solenoid] --- [Breaker] --- [Control Box] --- [Windlass]

Forward [EIM] connects to the [Control Box]
Aft [EIM] connects to the [Solenoid]

For some reason it shows the foot switch connected directly to the windlass - in parallel to the control box connections - which is different from the Lewmar wiring.

-Kevin
 
I went down to my dealer today to see if they could explain the best way to go about it. The wiring diagram for the boat will actually be of little help because the windlass itself is completely different. The Lewmar I plan to add only has 2 wires running directly to the windlass from the contactor. See post No. 1. The windlass that was an option on this boat and shown in the wiring diagram has 4 wires to it. See here:



He suggested I do not need a solenoid with this set up. Instead, he thinks the switch pad on my dash should be powered on when I press the anchor button based on the connection to the Lewmar contactor HOPEFULLY with the wires shown above that are already there. And it will be the contactor that controls up and down on the windlass.

+ cable from Battery switch terminal "both" ----> breaker ----> contactor ----> windlass
- cable from Ground bus bar -----> contactor ----> windlass

Dash switch wires (3) -----> contactor
Foot switch wires (3) ----- spiced to dash above to contactor

I hope this is correct. Seems simple enough but I am not sure how and if at all the EIM comes into play??
 
That is basically the same diagram from my 340 that I was referencing. The EIM is the control box that your helm pods are wired to. The output from the EIM is activated by pressing the button on the pod (like a relay).

- Kevin
 
Ok, thanks.

Changing gears a bit I ran into a different issue. Like Kevin's I have to deal with a hause plate (and cleat). Boy was that bedded well. I will have to patch a little gelcoat probably. But any way, the windlass should be installed with the center line of the anchor rollers (which in this pic is the line of the cleat) lined up with the right side of the windlass (where the blue tape is) so it draws it as straight back as possible. But as can be seen below I am going to be way left of the hause hole if i mount it exactly as recommended. Obviously, that leaves me with a big hole to deal with. What am I better off doing - filing the hole and mounting it perfectly straight or sliding the windlass to the right some to cover more of the hole but have the rode at a slight angle? If I do this should I "twist" the windlass slightly counter clockwise to match the angle that the road is coming back. How exact does this need to be?

Another option is to move it forward in front of the hause hole. BUT the question here is the rode seems that it will come from an angle slightly above the windlass. The roller closest to the windlass is at 3.25 inches and the bottom of the top gypsy is about 2.5 inches. Is that too much if a vertical drop?

One last thought, is there a rode "guide" that can help guide it straight back to the windlass or am I better off with the angle created by being offset 1 inch or so over the run of 3 feet from the front of the rollers.

 
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Well, I think I solved my own dilemma. I think I will place the windlass on a thin piece of starboard that will cover the hole and let me mount it where is should be. The holes for the mounting bolts will still be in full thickness deck material and the 1/4 inch of height wont make a difference. Problem solved??
 
I think a small offset would be fine - however I think if you cover the hole you show it would be offset a little too much. As long as all the mount go through the full deck you should be fine. The starboard filler would simply be decorative at that point. You will also need to make sure to seal the cut deck edge well once you cut. Probably would be good to seal it with a resin. Also, when you move the cleat you will still need to seal the holes and put down a plate to protect the deck from the chain.

-Kevin
 
KevinC said:
I think a small offset would be fine - however I think if you cover the hole you show it would be offset a little too much. As long as all the mount go through the full deck you should be fine. The starboard filler would simply be decorative at that point. You will also need to make sure to seal the cut deck edge well once you cut. Probably would be good to seal it with a resin. Also, when you move the cleat you will still need to seal the holes and put down a plate to protect the deck from the chain.

-Kevin
Click to expand...

Exactly what I was thinking. Once I cut the opening in the deck to size I was going to cover all of the raw cuts with marine tex epoxy. Same with filing the holes for the cleat. What I think I will do is cut the starboard first to fit the space including coverage along the path of the rode and over the cleat holes. Then cut the starboard out per the windlass template. Once I have that how I want it I will be able to position it exactly where i need it to cover the area and to serve as the template make the cuts and holes in the deck. Remove it, then seal as mentioned. I will put screws through the starboard in the corners as well as a bead of 4200 to mount it to the deck.
 
I wanted to do what Kevin did in his thread so here is an inventory and price of equipment:

Lewmar V700 windlass (breaker, contactor and rocker switch (hopefully not needed as I want to use my factory dash buttons. More on that later) with a 200 foot 1/2 inch 8 plait rode and 20 foot G4 chain sold as a combo. $753
Surface mount 35 breaker to make install easier. $70. (maybe I can sell the panel mount one that came with the windlass on ebay).

All of my wire and connectors/terminals were sourced from www.tinnedmarinewire.com. I found them to be an easy and convenient one stop shop. Prices seemed reasonable.
6 awg marine tinned wire. 30 feet red/30 feet black
16 awg primary tinned wired 50 feet (sold in rolls) x3 colors - blue, green, gray
16 1/4 post 6awg terminal lugs
Misc. heat shrink 3-1 ration All of this wire etc ran about $150

Tools:
Hydraulic crimper on amazon $36
Hole saws 2.5 and 4.5 inches with mandrel $35
12"x27" Starboard $22
Misc. marine tex and sealants
Zip ties!
 
Rainy day and off work early but my wire arrived! So I spent a little time making a wiring "harness" and putting some of the terminals on that can before I mount things.

The hydraulic crimping tool is a thing of beauty!! Wish I had it long time ago for all the stereos I've done. If you do wiring this thing is well worth the $40.

These are the power cables to the winch and the foot switch smaller wires.



 
Made some more progress. Got the wiring harness i made run from the engine compartment to the anchor locker. I used a fish tape and string the other day so all I needed to do was pull the wires through. Had to remove the microwave to make sure it was on a path I liked. Thankfully my storage in the berth had zippers in the liner to reach through! Score!! That took all of 20 minutes to run the wires.

I got the contactor and breaker mounted and wired . . . and viola!! I got power to the dash switch using the factory wiring!!!! Woohoo! Then came the moment of truth of just testing the wires at the windlass to see that everything worked as expected and . . . a little snag.

First, the "anchor" light on the dash button which in factory form turns the power to the windlass on and off stayed on "green". I first thought that was ok because this set up doesn't use a separate solenoid like from the factory. However, at the windlass when i pushed up or down i got nothing. BUT - here's where it got weird, when I pushed the on/off button and held it in the windlass turned. If i released and pushed it again it turned the other way and so on.

So, I am thinking that 3 factory wires I showed in an earlier pic are not connected to the contactor correctly. I will have to play around around with that and look over that diagram again. If anyone has a suggested I'm all ears.









 
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Harness is looking good! Gotta luv the hydraulic crimpers too. Also do not forget to cap out all the load lead connections with rubber caps.

-Kevin
 
Headed down the home stretch. Got the holes cut. That was tough since I couldn't use the hole saw for the big one due to the existing hole. Made a template and cut my starboard and routered the edges. I also sealed up the exposed holes with marine text and some 5200. Tomorrow I will wire the windlass, screw the starboard down and install foot switches then I'll be done other than trying to get the factory dash switches to work. For that I ordered a factory solenoid to connect to my contractor. I need to find 2 dash wires and I'll be all set!








 
Very nice job. Much needed upgrade, gonna be well worth the effort.
 
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