Progress 1 Windlass Problem

hanger505

Member
May 12, 2011
52
Lake St. Clair - Macray Harbor
Boat Info
2003 320 Sundancer
Engines
8.1L, Gen, Bravo III
Hi Guys, I searched the threads but could not find the exact issue. After splashing this year, I went on the hook using the windlass and when time to leave tried to have the windlass pull up the anchor. I heard a click coming from the Windlass each time I pressed the up button on the dash switch but nothing happened. When putting out more scope the windlass worked fine, but still would only click when I tried to retrieve it. I then journeyed to the bow and tried the foot switches, when either was pressed nothing happened.. not even a click.

After reading some threads I feel it may be the control box in the anchor locker, Has anyone had a similar problem?
 
I'm going through this now, I swapped the selenoid before splashing to use on the generator, and bought a new one for the windlass but went to use it and nothing just a click from the control box in the anchor locker, I'm wondering if I bought a bad selenoid?
 
Not the Progress 1, but a similar problem on the 280 where it would sometimes work, others just click. It was at a point where I needed to beat the motor, or jump on the deck to get it going again. I diagnosed it to be the motor itself. The brushes were plenty long, just really dirty making a crappy connection. I cleaned up the armature, and re-ground the brushes...good as new.

Pull the windless, and work on the bench.
 
Paul, I have no power to the motor itself so I don't think it's the motor, I opened the control box and the contacts where showing some arching. imtra recommended sanding the contacts and if still not working replace the control box. Keeping my fingers crossed a new motor is a lot of money!!!
 
I just replaced the control box on my 280 which has the solenoid inside of it. I ordered it from http://www.ahoycaptain.com/imtra.solenoids.html

I have the original winch installed by Sea Ray...a Lofran Marlin I believe. The install was easy...just keep track of the wires and all should be fine. The folks at Anoycaptain were very knowledgeable with windlass issues...you could also give them a call and they could guide you.
 
If you don't have power to the motor, your problem is up stream. is it a problem only in one direction? Diagnosing a solenoid is not too difficult (requires 2 people). Do you have power energizing the the heavy side of the solenoid? Do you have power to the thin side of the solenoid when using the foot or helm switches?
 
I get power only on the thin side when using only the helm switches, nothing at the foot switches nothing showing at the heavy side at all
 
You are supposed to have a heavy gauge wire feeding the solenoid with a constant 12V, if not check the breaker (most likely in the engine room). A picture would go a long way here.
 
Breaker is good. There is a latching solenoid in the ER labeled windlass that I replaced a week ago, only because I took that one to use on the generator
I'm getting power on one side of that solenoid.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
 
Last edited:
Not the Progress 1, but a similar problem on the 280 where it would sometimes work, others just click. It was at a point where I needed to beat the motor, or jump on the deck to get it going again. I diagnosed it to be the motor itself. The brushes were plenty long, just really dirty making a crappy connection. I cleaned up the armature, and re-ground the brushes...good as new.

Pull the windless, and work on the bench.

Had this exact problem and repair with a Progress 2 a few weeks ago.
 
Breaker is good. There is a latching solenoid in the ER labeled windlass that I replaced a week ago, only because I took that one to use on the generator
I'm getting power on one side of that solenoid.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

You have power on the battery side (heavy gauge wire), solenoid is engaging (you hear the click), and no power on the motor side...sure sounds like a bum solenoid to me
 
Hi Guys, I searched the threads but could not find the exact issue. After splashing this year, I went on the hook using the windlass and when time to leave tried to have the windlass pull up the anchor. I heard a click coming from the Windlass each time I pressed the up button on the dash switch but nothing happened. When putting out more scope the windlass worked fine, but still would only click when I tried to retrieve it. I then journeyed to the bow and tried the foot switches, when either was pressed nothing happened.. not even a click.

After reading some threads I feel it may be the control box in the anchor locker, Has anyone had a similar problem?

Whelp, gave in and bought a new control box... working great now! Although trying to utilize the same mounting holes in the anchor locker was fun :smt009
 
Well confused now. I jumped the selenoid in the ER and everything works correctly, but when hooked up properly I only get clicking from the windlass control box.
 
This weekend went out & used my anchor for the first time this year (always rafted up). Anchor went down but didnt come up at helm switch. Both foot pedals inop since over a year. Any suggestions? I will try cleaning up anchor box connections. Should the wiring be sprayed w/ wd40 or crc?
Thx,
Mario
 
This weekend went out & used my anchor for the first time this year (always rafted up). Anchor went down but didnt come up at helm switch. Both foot pedals inop since over a year. Any suggestions? I will try cleaning up anchor box connections. Should the wiring be sprayed w/ wd40 or crc?
Thx,
Mario
Looked inside my anchor locker & noticed the ground was lose. Went to take nut off and the bolt snapped off motor. Is there another ground in the locker or do I have to get a new motor? If so anyone know how much or part #?
Thx,
 
Take it to an electric motor repair shop. They should be able to repair it for under $100. A new one is in the $4-500 range.

Jeff
 

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