Problems with my Waeco refrigerator............

[rgl1100]

I'm having an issue with my Waeco Coolmatic RPD-0110. Its the original fridge that came with the boat but I haven't used it much since we purchased the boat in 2011. The cockpit ice maker works fine and cools down. However, the inside fridge doesn't do anything except has its interior light on. I have tried the fridge on both 12V and generator power. I'm on the hook so I can't hook it to shore power but I assume the generator will supply the same 110V. I pulled the fridge out and I'm a bit mystified........Everything appears perfectly fine. I bought myself an MPS 50 power supply after thoroughly researching the topic here on the site. However, my problem seems a bit more daunting since I'm not getting ANY sound from the compressor on either voltage. However, and this could be my imagination, I felt that when I had the power on fro a period of time the compressor "seemed" to be more cold than what I would have expected. It is made of metal so it could of been my imagination but it's a finding so I want to post it. The reason I didn't push right into the swap out of the power supply is due to the fact that I measured 24V at the circuit board input. That's exactly what is supposed to be being put out by the power supply. I disassembled the circuit board and, at least tome, it appears like the day it came out of the factory. I realize that can mean nothing but to not be getting a peep seems strange. Can anyone tell me if there is an external fuse I may be missing? On the plastic housing of the circuit board there is an embossed lettering stating "must be pre-fused". I'm wondering where that might be. I'd assume the inside refrigerator light wouldn't be working either if it was a fuse problem but I'm trying to cover anything I can. Can anyone help or guide me....................

 

[gerryb]

Is the compressor getting voltage? What are the amp readings? Those two data points can tell you a lot about what the compressor (and power supply) are doing in a refrigeration circuit. If it is indeed running, you probably lost refrigerant which is why it isn't working. It could also be a bad compressor. If you have a multimeter with amp gauge, give us the amps being pulled when the fridge is on and thermostat set to coldest setting.

 

[villain style]

I had the exact same issues with mine. Tried the fixes you tried also but no such luck. Replaced it with this Dometic DO CR1110U/F 3.8CF AC/DC from Beard Marine... Runs great!!

 

[scarron]

Hi Mark, I have some boat and model frig and mine won't work very long on DC but is cold on AC. My marina thinks its the stock stereo/amps draining the brand new AGM battery My understanding is that the frig has a safety sensor that wont kick on the compressor below 10.2volts. I changed out the power supply from the mps 35 the 50 and that didn't work. This spring I am going to test run the frig on DC w/o using the stereo to see if the marina is right. Did you have any problems with your new CR 110 and fitting the opening with that flush mount? Thanks Steve

 

[Zorba]

Going to revive this thread. I'm having issues with my fridge but the opposite of whats going on above. When solely on AC power, the fridge has stopped working. No power to the compressor and no light on in fridge when door open. I pulled the fridge our and plugged it in to another outlet to see if that was the issue and had the same results. Now the odd thing is when i switched it over to DC power all was well. Light on, power to compressor and fridge cooling once again.

Will the the MPS 50 power source replacement work for this issue?

 

[gerryb]

Going to revive this thread. I'm having issues with my fridge but the opposite of whats going on above. When solely on AC power, the fridge has stopped working. No power to the compressor and no light on in fridge when door open. I pulled the fridge our and plugged it in to another outlet to see if that was the issue and had the same results. Now the odd thing is when i switched it over to DC power all was well. Light on, power to compressor and fridge cooling once again.

Will the the MPS 50 power source replacement work for this issue?

Based on my experience, the most likely culprit is the bridge rectifier in the power supply. The rectifier converts AC to DC power. The board has electronics to see if the DC power is coming of the rectifier and if so, it uses that power source through a switch. If NOT, then it goes to the straight 12v from battery line input. If the rectifier goes bad (gets shorted internally) the switch will never trigger and it will always look for batter power only. The rectifier $3.00 part to buy and solder in the power supply board. You might have also blown the fuse as a result of the short in the bridge rectifier.
I purchased a new MPS 50 and fixed the old one (installed new rectifier) which now works and is a backup.

 

[Zorba]

Based on my experience, the most likely culprit is the bridge rectifier in the power supply. The rectifier converts AC to DC power. The board has electronics to see if the DC power is coming of the rectifier and if so, it uses that power source through a switch. If NOT, then it goes to the straight 12v from battery line input. If the rectifier goes bad (gets shorted internally) the switch will never trigger and it will always look for batter power only. The rectifier $3.00 part to buy and solder in the power supply board. You might have also blown the fuse as a result of the short in the bridge rectifier.
I purchased a new MPS 50 and fixed the old one (installed new rectifier) which now works and is a backup.

Awesome. Thanks so much for your quick reply. New MPS 50 on the way and will repair old one as a back up. As an aside, the marina we stayed at this weekend only had 50amp power and we split that to two 30's. Wonder if that was the issue or if it was just coincidence.

 

[abarbasch]

Based on my experience, the most likely culprit is the bridge rectifier in the power supply. The rectifier converts AC to DC power. The board has electronics to see if the DC power is coming of the rectifier and if so, it uses that power source through a switch. If NOT, then it goes to the straight 12v from battery line input. If the rectifier goes bad (gets shorted internally) the switch will never trigger and it will always look for batter power only. The rectifier $3.00 part to buy and solder in the power supply board. You might have also blown the fuse as a result of the short in the bridge rectifier.
I purchased a new MPS 50 and fixed the old one (installed new rectifier) which now works and is a backup.

I have a bad MPS 35 that puts out 27v on AC but only 12v on battery. Can this be fixed or should I get a new one? Will the MPS 50 work for this refrigerator?