Problem with Electric Swim Platform

[drprunner]

2017 400 Sundancer. Bought brand new in 2018. Never had a problem with the electric swim platform until a couple of months ago, when the fuse (10 amp) started blowing. So far put in a new circuit board ($950) which seemed to help for a few times of using the lift. But then started blowing fuses again. Tried a 15 amp fuse, which works but the wiring gets fairly warm. Now as soon as the battery that powers the lift is turned on, the fuse blows, even when not using the lift. So I figure the problem has to be between the battery and the fuse. Anybody else seen this problem? The company that made the electrical part of the lift is Opacmare. I've attached a few pictures of the circuit board and the wired controller.

 

[PlayDate]

This was confusing for a moment. Is this a dinghy lift or platform lift by Opacmare Marine? I'm pretty sure the control board signals via a heavy duty relay to the hydraulic pump and it provides pressure to a set of hydraulic rams that actuate the lift.

Usually when the control board is blowing a fuse......the draw connected to the board is the problem.

Do you have a model number for it?

 

[drprunner]

This was confusing for a moment. Is this a dinghy lift or platform lift by Opacmare Marine? I'm pretty sure the control board signals via a heavy duty relay to the hydraulic pump and it provides pressure to a set of hydraulic rams that actuate the lift.

Usually when the control board is blowing a fuse......the draw connected to the board is the problem.

Do you have a model number for it?

It's a swim platform lift, model 5220.

 

[Lazy Daze]

This is obviously not a definitive diagnosis - but based on what you wrote (and being in Fla adds to the mix), it sounds like corroded connections or wires (under the sheathing). This creates more resistance which would then cause the fuse to pop. I'd inspect/clean everything before replacing everything else.

 

[PlayDate]

This is obviously not a definitive diagnosis - but based on what you wrote (and being in Fla adds to the mix), it sounds like corroded connections or wires (under the sheathing). This creates more resistance which would then cause the fuse to pop. I'd inspect/clean everything before replacing everything else.

Well.....I can't find a single technical or install manual for the 5220. That makes it tough to sort it out without at least a wiring diagram.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Well.....I can't find a single technical or install manual for the 5220. That makes it tough to sort it out without at least a wiring diagram.

True... may have to do it the 'ol fashioned way!

I'd probably start with all/any of the connections associated with/around the circuit board that was replaced, given changing that out caused a temporary improvement (from wiggling/playing with the wires).

Don't forget to REALLY inspect the connections - sometimes a number of the copper strands will be broken.

 

[DrPringle]

Contact opacmare?
I see they still have a website assuming they’re still around

 

[PlayDate]

If I had to bet.....the underlying problem is the control relay that drives the hydraulic pump. This relay connects to the control board and is triggered by it. Some manufacturers use more than one relay to accomplish this task. The actuation of the relay draws power from the 10 amp fuse via the control board.

You might have fried the new board using a fuse that allowed 50% more current to flow through it. That would explain why it worked for a while and why it now blows when you turn the power on. I hope this is not the case.

As @Lazy Daze suggested......fractured end connectors can also create more draw and also cause a fuse problem.

 

[drprunner]

Thanks for all the valuable input. I've traced the wiring and have not yet found any corrosion of bad connectors. The one thing I haven't been able to find is the breaker between the motor (the lift is electric, not hydraulic). Anyone know where I should look?

 

[PlayDate]

Thanks for all the valuable input. I've traced the wiring and have not yet found any corrosion of bad connectors. The one thing I haven't been able to find is the breaker between the motor (the lift is electric, not hydraulic). Anyone know where I should look?

First......I have never worked on a 5220 but all platforms usually have the same components .....some ........just use better materials and design.

In regards to it being electric.....well....this is from the manufacturer:

Opacmare Tender Lift 5220​

The Opacmare Tender Lift 5220 is a Hydraulically powered stern platform lifting mechanisms facilitating the launching and hauling of dinghies, tenders and aquascooters. Constructed in AISI 316 L stainless steel with two arms and a working load of 300 to 1000 kg. Supplied complete with a torsion bar and a hydraulic piston safety device with adjustable plates. Hydraulically lifted mechanisms for stern platforms which allow and facilitate dingy, tender and water scooter launching and haulage; more than 80 models have been designed. They are completely made of AISI 316 L stainless steel and are supplied with either two arms; loading capacities range between 300 and 2000 kg. Optional supplies are a connection bar between the arms, a safety blocking system by means of hydraulic pistons, adjustable plates and slide.



My money is still on the relays that the control board is connected to. I would send Opacmare a note about the problem you are having.