Pressure treated vs Teak wood

S

Sherman Moore

New Member
Dec 12, 2008
81
LaPorte, Texas
Boat Info
1989 Sea Ray 340EC saved from the crusher and now in the water where it should be
Engines
twin 454 GM
I am in te process of repairing a fiberglass swim platform. It has two opening with a teak wood "grill" that are 28"x10". Will pressure treated wood work in the place of the teak? Its a cost issue. I know I can get the teak but that stuff is expensive. I have done many project with treated wood and they are still holding up. I know you can't stain or paint the treated stuff, but its just on the swim platform.
Thanks in advance
 
Aside from aesthetics, I don't see why it won't perform.

You can paint/stain pressure treated wood. You just have to wait until water stops beading on the surface. Give it a couple weeks after that and you're good to go.
 
Don't waste your time on pressure treated wood. It is pumped full of liquid salt to prevent rotting......hence, "pressure treated". Unfortunately, it also makes it very dimensionally unstable until it completely dries out.......like in 2 years. Until then it is going to gradually shrink. A 5-1/2" board will end up 4-3/4 or so". THat means your pretty wood work that fits t he platform this year wil be 3/4" too narrow next year and 1-1/4" too narrow th next. With shrinkage comes cracking.

Its a boat......spend the extra $25 on some teak scraps..........or if cost is really that much of an issue, use Starboard and you will never have to strip, clean or varnish it.
 
fwebster said:
Don't waste your time on pressure treated wood. It is pumped full of liquid salt to prevent rotting......hence, "pressure treated". Unfortunately, it also makes it very dimensionally unstable until it completely dries out.......like in 2 years. Until then it is going to gradually shrink. A 5-1/2" board will end up 4-3/4 or so". THat means your pretty wood work that fits t he platform this year wil be 3/4" too narrow next year and 1-1/4" too narrow th next. With shrinkage comes cracking.

Its a boat......spend the extra $25 on some teak scraps..........or if cost is really that much of an issue, use Starboard and you will never have to strip, clean or varnish it.
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Add to this splinters as it shrinks and the grain opens up. Teak is not that bad. Check online.:thumbsup:
 
Think about it, there is a reason that teak is used on boats and not pressure treated lumber. Teak creates traction when it is wet, pressure treated lumber is slippery until the surface wears down and it become splintery. Splinters are tough on your feet and swimmer's bodies. I would think that you would want to push yourself a little and get the teak.
 
I had to replace the single "step" on both sides of my 87 250da 5 years ago. The original teak was crumbling. I bought scrap pieces on ebay and trimmed them to size at my friend's wood shop.
Eddie
 
I removed my swim platform inserts to sand and refinish. Since they were coated with some old brownish varnish finish I did not realize until I began sanding that one of them was replaced with mahogany and one was the origional teak. The mahogany still looked very good and I know it can be found for considerable less than teak. I understand Honduran mahogany is what you will need to use, not some of the other varities available. It has a different look but is still a nice piece of wood.
 
I have no idea of the cost of teak but you could build it out of TREX and then like the starboard you will have no maintenence issues. My pier is all floored with TREX and has performed wonderfully.

John
 
A word of caution on Trex. (or other composite woods)

Trex does not have the same structural strength as teak. It is flexible. It may not work for this application.
 
Sherman,

I'm not familiar with the inserts on your swim platform. What I do recall is that some of these are made from pieces that are a square cross section and alternate a full length piece with two shorter pieces. With that in mind why don't you post some dimensions and pictures.

I'm about to start a mahogany table project for a client. I'm pretty sure the falls would look better on your swim platform, than in my wood stove box.

Henry
 
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Henry,
The dimension is 28 1/2" x 9 7/8" 1" thick. The short peices are 6" and others are 8 5/8". I ripped a 2x4 8' and it took the entire board. Tell what you think.

Sherman
 

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Sherman, is that picture of the current teak insert? Is the other solid, as well? Teak is very durable and can easily be brought back to like-new condition.
 
If the teak inserts are in good mechanical condition, you can take a light cut on both sides with a planer to level and smooth the surface. Then, when you replace the insert in the platform put a 1/6" or so shim under the it to replace the thickness you planed the rough surface off.

I did this with the inserts on my old boat. I just got weary of the maintenance and ugly appearance so I planed, sanded then shot them with AwlGrip to match the artic white gelcoat.
 
fwebster said:
If the teak inserts are in good mechanical condition, you can take a light cut on both sides with a planer to level and smooth the surface. Then, when you replace the insert in the platform put a 1/6" or so shim under the it to replace the thickness you planed the rough surface off.

I did this with the inserts on my old boat. I just got weary of the maintenance and ugly appearance so I planed, sanded then shot them with AwlGrip to match the artic white gelcoat.
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Frank, painting over teak - shame on you!

Sherman,

Do you have a power planer? If not, and if you want send to them to me, I'll run them through my planner and get them back to you. PM me if you want address details. I'm still going to have left over mahogany that will end up in the firewood bin, so that is still open. Sorry if I am being crass, but the mahogany is going to end up in my wood stove if you don't want it. I'm not looking for any money other than what UPS might charge for shipping.

Henry
 
Henry,

I'm a purist, but after 7-8 years of teak maintenance in Florida's sun and salt, I had enough. In addition to the inserts, I removed all the teak trim on the 390 and AwlGripped everything but the rope locker lid, the cabin entry way door trim and the cockpit covering board. The end result was the most clean and crisp looking 39 around simply because you just can't get all the teak to look good in Florida at the same time, except for the first 5 days after you clean and re-oil it.
 
I just finished re-varnishing my teak inserts. Because of their age they're beginning to get "cupped", but because they match the varnished teak covering boards I've kept them that way.

The sun is brutal, but as long as I overcome my laziness and do a couple of quick touch-up coats every few months, they look great. The key to varnished teak is to never let it go so long that the varnish cracks or peels. If you keep up with it it's NBD. Never been a fan of oiling, but this is all purely a matter of personal preference.

To be honest, I've considered replacing them with white Seaboard panels engraved with the boat's name. Easy to work like wood, maintenance free. The comment above about the Trex would hold for the plastic as well, so I might need to add a piece of aluminum angle at the midpoint to be sure it doesn't sag.

Whatever you decide, PT won't cut it for the reasons stated above.
 
My blowboat has a fair bit of teak. . .

. . .which is why when I went power boat shopping I made DARN sure that there was not a piece of wood on it.

Oiling teak makes you a slave. Varnish is ok as long as you keep up with it. But it is still work. In my neck of the woods. . .it's every 2 years . . .assuming I put six -not two- coats of varnish. With four coats. . .it needs to be redone every year. Florida is probably much worse.

I have seen boats around here with canvas covers on the teak handrails. . .
 
Well, I guess I'm in the minority on the PT being up to the task. However, he only asked if it would suffice. I 100% agree that it's not the "correct" thing to do, but it would do the job of covering his holes. It certainly wouldn't be the prettiest thing around the dock, but it would accomplish the task of keeping anyone from falling through the hole. Worst case scenario - it needs to be replaced after a couple years.

Unless you're in really cold water, shrinkage shouldn't be an issue. :smt001
 
Well guys I guess I got it going here. I just talked with my mechanic and he said he has a teak swim platform he'll give me. From the chat here I better us teak or my grandkids will be born sideways. I do love the passion each has for thier vessel. I went from racing cars, (another MAJOR money pit) to power boats. will have the "Sherminator 2" in the water before the 4th of July (boat mechanic are a rare breed, they don't want to work)

Herny check the PM. I still want your help.

Reading the posts as they come it. Chat later

Sherman
 
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