Pre-wired generator plug in

Aug 12, 2010
301
RMYC, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Boat Info
1991 350 Sundancer
Engines
T-340 hp Bluewater 7.4 L
Bravo II I/O's
Don't panic guys, this is NOT a portable generator question!

I can't be the first guy to think of this, but if I am, feel free to point out why this is a good (or really stupid) idea.

My 1991 350 Sundancer is (I think) pre-wired for a generator, but is not generator equipped. The electrical panel has a breaker labelled "generator" and there are in and out wires attached to this breaker.

My idea is to replace the original house battery bank with a larger (4 to 6 6 volt) battery bank and to install a Xantrex 3000 watt pure sine inverter and to run it back to the electrical panel via the original generator wiring.

In theory, this would allow me to switch from shore power to inverter power at the main panel and would not require any additional wiring.

If anyone is still with me this far, please be assured that because my boat has I/O's (and no generator) I have more than enough room for the installation of larger, heavier batteries.

I have searched both here and on the net for info on this type of installation and have not been able to find anything so I am requesting feedback, positive or negative.

Oh, yeah....where the heck is the generator wiring plug in? I have been through the engine compartment and am unable to locate anything obvious but I will be honest and admit that I am not exactly sure what I am looking for.

Thanks in advance.

Bob
 
Not commenting on your description about how exactly you are going to do this. I prefer complete wiring diagrams. But based on what
you describe as the end result I think you will end up with the entire 120 panel on the inverter including such things as

electric resistive cooktop if any
120 volt side of refrigerator
120 volt icemaker if any
120 volt electric water heater if any
120 volt battery charger (charging the batteries with a charger powered by the batteries is throwing out a lot of battery power).

Are you prepared to turn all of theses off along with anything else that does not belong on the inverter ?
 
Not commenting on your description about how exactly you are going to do this. I prefer complete wiring diagrams. But based on what
you describe as the end result I think you will end up with the entire 120 panel on the inverter including such things as

electric resistive cooktop if any
120 volt side of refrigerator
120 volt icemaker if any
120 volt electric water heater if any
120 volt battery charger (charging the batteries with a charger powered by the batteries is throwing out a lot of battery power).

Are you prepared to turn all of theses off along with anything else that does not belong on the inverter ?

Hi, Happy, and thanks for throwing those "what abouts" out there.

Stove - not worried about that as almost all cooking will be on the Magma BBQ
Fridge - should not be an issue since, to my way of thinking, the fridge will remain on 12 volt power just as it does now when we are away from shore power
Icemaker - oh, yeah, that baby will be working
Water heater - should not be necessary to keep it powered full time since short stints with the engines running will provide some heat as well.
Battery charger - will not be used. Considering the addition of a solar panel for passive charging of the batteries will away from shore power.

I look at this and think it is quite do-able. Please, everyone, feel free to comment further.

Bob
 
I would keep it simple...

Get a Xantrex 3012 with AC input

Then trace your shorepower cable - cut it - feed "input" to the Xantrex. Then take one output from the 3012 and feed back to the panel via the normal other end of the cut shore power connection.

I do not remember if the 3012 is galvanic isolated. Else you have to locate the galvanic isolator and put it in "line" before the 3012.

Then you do not need to worry about changing anything. If you are on Shorepower the Xantrex will feed of that and pass it on. When you disconnect the shore power - the Inverter will start working off the batteries. That will happen without any power-loss - so things that are turned on will continue to work (<20 ms change over delay) - and when you plug shore power back in - the Xantrex will switch back to using shorepower.

Easy peasy. :) - only problem is you might forget to turn off some of the "power sucking" things like A/C and can quickly deplete your battery bank.
 
I would keep it simple...

Get a Xantrex 3012 with AC input

Then trace your shorepower cable - cut it - feed "input" to the Xantrex. Then take one output from the 3012 and feed back to the panel via the normal other end of the cut shore power connection.

I do not remember if the 3012 is galvanic isolated. Else you have to locate the galvanic isolator and put it in "line" before the 3012.

Then you do not need to worry about changing anything. If you are on Shorepower the Xantrex will feed of that and pass it on. When you disconnect the shore power - the Inverter will start working off the batteries. That will happen without any power-loss - so things that are turned on will continue to work (<20 ms change over delay) - and when you plug shore power back in - the Xantrex will switch back to using shorepower.

Easy peasy. :) - only problem is you might forget to turn off some of the "power sucking" things like A/C and can quickly deplete your battery bank.

Thanks, Kaz.

I like the simplicity of your approach but am not sure that I like the idea of shorepower cables snaking around the cockpit and flopping around the outside of the boat. Although upon second reading I gather you meant to feed the input to the Xantrex from behind the main panel and back again. (My stupid)

I had hoped that my idea would do all that yours would with the exception being the requirement to manually flip two breaker switches. That would place me at the panel where I could then ensure that all unneeded loads are turned off.

Thanks again for your suggestion and I will take your idea under advisement. Oh, and congrats on the new boat. (Only 2 more sleeps!)

I am still hopeful that someone can tell me where the generator wiring is stashed on a boat pre-wired for a generator.

Bob
 
Last edited:
Thanks, Kaz.

I like the simplicity of your approach but am not sure that I like the idea of shorepower cables snaking around the cockpit and flopping around the outside of the boat. Although upon second reading I gather you meant to feed the input to the Xantrex from behind the main panel and back again. (My stupid)

I had hoped that my idea would do all that yours would with the exception being the requirement to manually flip two breaker switches. That would place me at the panel where I could then ensure that all unneeded loads are turned off.

Thanks again for your suggestion and I will take your idea under advisement. Oh, and congrats on the new boat. (Only 2 more sleeps!)

I am still hopeful that someone can tell me where the generator wiring is stashed on a boat pre-wired for a generator.

Bob

:) no problem. For me its easy since that is "close" to my line of education a few decades ago. :) anyway I think you can get a Xantrex with 2 x 110v output - and you can program it so OUTPUT 1 = SHOREPOWER & INVERTER and OUTPUT 2 = ONLY if on shore power.

But there is a nice control panel for the 3012 that lets you turn it on/off etc and you can put that on your Power Panel.

If I was buying a brand new boat today - I would insist on a hybrid solution like the Xantrex but with a generator input as well. Since the generator can be a lot smaller since "excess" start up amps are drawn from the batteries - the whole solution is smaller and more lightweight and generates more power.

But download the Xantrex manual and check it for solutions. Alternatives are Victron MultiPlus and a product from MasterVolt I don't remember. :)
 

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