Panels & Carling Rocker Switches-PLEASE SCHOOL ME !

[Maybe A Dancer]

Been a hands on wrench turning boater for nearly 30 years.

New to SEA RAY and still learning how Sea Ray does things.

As compared to previous boats, I am very, VERY impressed with the way the electrical system is set up, and lucky for me, I have an UNMOLESTED BOAT !

Never dealt with Carling rocker switches, and have not yet touched the rocker switch panel in my 450DA - 1996

I see numerous versions of CARLING rocker switches: Carling Rockers, Contura, Contura2, Series 4, 5, & 7 and V Series.

Don't know what I have (factory)

All the switches do light up green when turned on

The dimmer (potentiometer) for the instrument lights works well.

Covers are sun damaged, and one at the rear cockpit is missing.

Sometime in the next few months I will be replacing (Technographcs) all 3 dash panels, however at this time this is not a priority as there are more pressing service matters to deal with.

Questions?

• which version of Carling rockers likely came factory on the 1998 450DA ?
• other than the engine start switch & horn switches, are they all of the same configuration - DPDT, or are they a menagerie of different setups?
• Is the factory switch light an incandescent bulb or an LED?
• would new Carling switches be illuminated with LED's
• As I understand it, the COVERS are replaceable?
• the 120v light behind the panel to illuminate the labeling does not work. Can it be replaced with simple LED light strips?
• If so, can those LED light strips be made to be dimmable?
• Should I consider replacing ALL THE ROCKER SWITCHES with new switches that have illuminated labels like these and eliminate the need for the switch panel backlighting ? Switch Combos - New Wire Marine

In the event I go with the last item above, I could then fabricate my own replacement dash panels, using the factory panels for outside dimension templates

Don't want to re-invent the wheel here, I really, REALLY want to learn from the experience of others.

Owned my 10 meter for 20.5 years. The 450DA will be my LAST BOAT so the plan for everything I do is to do it right, do it once so it will last another (God willing) 20 years for my use, enjoyment and most of all, DEPENDABILITY.

Your comments and suggestions are appreciated.

BEST !

RWS

 

[Creekwood]

The switches are all different depending on what they are for.
Here is a complete switch set on Sea-Ray parts as a starting point for what you have now.
Complete set of covers:
https://www.searay-parts.com/Carling-rocker-switch-p/vv c3kit450da.htm
Complete set of full switches
https://www.searay-parts.com/Carling-rocker-switch-p/switchkit450da.htm
And the panels:
https://www.searay-parts.com/Sea-ray-dash-instrument-panel-p/fp-panel450da.htm

 

[dtfeld]

If your a hands on guy, go to the Sea Ray website under Owners, and you can download the owners manuals, and the parts manuals. Sometimes you have to go forward or back a year or two to find the your model. These are invaluable when trying to troubleshoot and find specific parts.

The Carling switches come as a body and a actuator (this is the cover you describe above).

Once you have the sea ray part #, the sites above usually have these cross referenced. It can be a PITA to convert and find sometimes.

 

[Creekwood]

If your a hands on guy, go to the Sea Ray website under Owners, and you can download the owners manuals, and the parts manuals. Sometimes you have to go forward or back a year or two to find the your model. These are invaluable when trying to troubleshoot and find specific parts.

The Carling switches come as a body and a actuator (this is the cover you describe above).

Once you have the sea ray part #, the sites above usually have these cross referenced. It can be a PITA to convert and find sometimes.

The SeaRay parts site link gives the part numbers for each switch in their set. Its very helpful as a reference.

Carling Contura III V series rocker Switch AND Actuator kit

• This is a SWITCH AND ACTUATOR kit - We can put a kit together for any boat model.
• This set is for the 1995-1999 ish 450 Sundancer
• The accessory positions on the switch panel originally came with two blank plugs. We have replaced those with regular on/off (V1D1-2) switches
• Some of the older model boats had a smaller horn switch. We have replaced that with the standard size Carling switch and a corresponding actuator with a red horn symbol.
• This Kit Includes:
  Actuators:
  1 C3-L horn symbol
  3 C3-I black with no lens
  14 C3-F black with single blue lens
  2 C3-K Ignition start/stop symbols
  
  Switches:
  1 VLD1-3 SR part# 1733928 681494 Windlass main
  1 VB4A-1 SR part# 670539 emergency start
  9 V1D1-2 SR part# 648097 bilge pumps, bilge lts, spoiler lts, docking lts, wipers, Accy
  1 V1D1-1 SR part# 681502 engine synchronizer
  2 VAD1-1 SR part# 681510 Running Lights, Anchor Lights
  2 V2D1-3 SR part# 679332 horn, windshield washer
  1 VLD1-1 SR part# 757369 windshield vent
  1 V2DA-3 SR part# 679324 Bilge Blowers
  2 VM4J-1 SR part# 670521 ignition

 

[BillK2632]

The Carling switches come in different styles that vary in the shape, lighting, emblems etc. You can replace just the covers or the entire switich if you need. A good source I found is: newwiremarine.com I just have a few switches, but I used them when I replaced my aging covers and added cockpit lighting. They also custom fabricate switch panels for individuals and OEMs for boat builders manufactures. Located in Charleston SC.

 

[scooper321]

The dimmer (potentiometer) for the instrument lights works well.

• Is the factory switch light an incandescent bulb or an LED?
• the 120v light behind the panel to illuminate the labeling does not work. Can it be replaced with simple LED light strips?
• If so, can those LED light strips be made to be dimmable?

The switch panel backlight is AC. There are EL light strips on the back of the panel that are driven by an inverter attached to your harness (under the helm, I believe). The inverter could be bad, you could have a bad connection or, as in my case, the EL light strips may be deteriorating. Yes, you can replace the inverter and those strips with LED strips (or just one big LED light under the panel).

The instrument lights are 12V DC bulbs but you can replace them with LED equivalents. Glad your dimmer works. Mine does not - or maybe all my instrument bulbs are burned out? Lol. The only decent dimmer module I’m finding is from BlueSea. But I’d prefer to keep the black Carling switch as the BlueSea’s is gray.

This helm lighting project just came up my list of To Do’s, too.

 

[440 Jim]

My nephew is in the process of totally rewiring his 2201 Century CC. All the components came from newwiremarine, good company to deal with. Carlingswitch is the standard IMO, industry standard sizing makes replacement easy. We totally reconfigured the helm and designed, laser cut, and powdercoated the panels at our shop, they are made from .100"Al.

The old switchpanel was where the VHF is now, the yami obx system was where the switches are now, he had no lowrance prior, it was a police boat, lived on one lake its entire life. He got the blue, illuminated letters for his switches. I'm pretty sure they are rated for ac and dc.
You can get the numbers off the sides for the configuration, just match the switch, and when swapping out just change one wire at a time to save you from having to think about how it went together.
I did my 19' flats CC 6yrs ago and plan on redoing my Proline 23 Bay. It's still in good shape (08), but I can do some pretty cool stuff with AutoCad and a laser table, the temptation is a custom dash with the Proline logo in it.
Our 440CV bridge has a newer panel on the starboard helm, they relocated all the controls from the cabinet under the helm fwd of the capt chair. Like most wiring it looks great from the outside. When I was checking things out under the helm, the new wiring looks like shit. One if my projects this year is to rewire and cut a new instrument panel, freshen it up a bit. Luckily it's a comfortable under there for me, I've already spent a few sessions in there.
If you were in Savannah I'd be happy to help.
Good luck, don't overthink.
Eat an elephant one bite at a time...

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

THANKS FOR ALL THIS GOOD INFO !

By the way, I believe I have one ignition/start switch going bad....

ANYWAY:

If you were tackling this project TODAY, knowing that all 3 dash panels are faded and have non-current "openings" .......... given all the options & technology available would you:

• go back with 100% stock replacement, including the panel replacement from FP?
• Move up to the LED switch version?
• Seems to me, if I go with this choice: Backlit Switches | Marine Grade Boat Rocker Switches | New Wire Marine I could eliminate the need for the panel labels and that entire backlighting system. Am I reading this correctly?

This would also allow me to make my own custom dash panels, as I am deleting the idiot light Sea Ray Systems Monitor and will be adding my own non factory tachs, trans temp, pyrometer & boost gauges, genny oil & water temp gauges and bilge pump ON lights.

Given the technology available, which way would you go?

BEST !

RWS

 

[440 Jim]

We with with the backlit to eliminate labeling. I like the "beer alarm" one.

 

[scooper321]

THANKS FOR ALL THIS GOOD INFO !

By the way, I believe I have one ignition/start switch going bad....

ANYWAY:

If you were tackling this project TODAY, knowing that all 3 dash panels are faded and have non-current "openings" .......... given all the options & technology available would you:

• go back with 100% stock replacement, including the panel replacement from FP?
• Move up to the LED switch version?
• Seems to me, if I go with this choice: Backlit Switches | Marine Grade Boat Rocker Switches | New Wire Marine I could eliminate the need for the panel labels and that entire backlighting system. Am I reading this correctly?

This would also allow me to make my own custom dash panels, as I am deleting the idiot light Sea Ray Systems Monitor and will be adding my own non factory tachs, trans temp, pyrometer & boost gauges, genny oil & water temp gauges and bilge pump ON lights.

Given the technology available, which way would you go?

BEST !

RWS

replacing the Systems Monitor is a whole different task. There’s a great write up in the forum on doing just that. It’s a lot of info to display so you might want all the sensors on a NMEA2000 network where you can display alarms using something like a Maretron DSM410 display.

 

[b_arrington]

Just a a reference, I’m doing a panel replacement on a 270 DA. I’m only replacing the panels with a Flounder Pounder kit, no upgrades.

It’s pretty tedious work, even just swapping the existing switches to the new panel. As an example of what’s behind the panels here are a couple pics. Just so you can see what’s you’re in for.

 

[dtfeld]

THANKS FOR ALL THIS GOOD INFO !

By the way, I believe I have one ignition/start switch going bad....

ANYWAY:

If you were tackling this project TODAY, knowing that all 3 dash panels are faded and have non-current "openings" .......... given all the options & technology available would you:

• go back with 100% stock replacement, including the panel replacement from FP?
• Move up to the LED switch version?
• Seems to me, if I go with this choice: Backlit Switches | Marine Grade Boat Rocker Switches | New Wire Marine I could eliminate the need for the panel labels and that entire backlighting system. Am I reading this correctly?

This would also allow me to make my own custom dash panels, as I am deleting the idiot light Sea Ray Systems Monitor and will be adding my own non factory tachs, trans temp, pyrometer & boost gauges, genny oil & water temp gauges and bilge pump ON lights.

Given the technology available, which way would you go?

BEST !

RWS

FP Marine are good panels, but if your going to be adding displays or gauges and customizing, Technografic does a really nice job, and are a little nicer IMHO. They will send you a drawing of exactly what you want before production. The edges are chamfered, and I believe it’s hydro dipped. If the main panel, new EL lighting is provided.

l have used both, and the Technografic is a nice upgrade.

Here is what I did…http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/new-dash-layout-options.102996/

 

[scooper321]

Just a a reference, I’m doing a panel replacement on a 270 DA. I’m only replacing the panels with a Flounder Pounder kit, no upgrades.

It’s pretty tedious work, even just swapping the existing switches to the new panel. As an example of what’s behind the panels here are a couple pics. Just so you can see what’s you’re in for.

View attachment 122495 View attachment 122496 View attachment 122497 View attachment 122498

These pictures give me PTSD and I haven’t even rewired mine. I have installed and upgraded a few things however, so I’m all too familiar with these views!

 

[dtfeld]

These pictures give me PTSD and I haven’t even rewired mine. I have installed and upgraded a few things however, so I’m all too familiar with these views!

When I did it, I did one switch at a time. I took a picture or 2 making sure I could see all wires. While time consuming, not too tough.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

UPDATE:

Still waiting to hear back from Technogrphic & FP.

New Wire Marine has responded quickly and somewhat aggressively.

I really like the idea that with NEW WIRE there will be no need to backlight the Carling rocker switch panel.

They feature BACKLIGHTED/ETCHED rockers with TWO lights.

https://newwiremarine.com/printed-vs-etched-switch-covers/#

So the rocker switch is:

• readable in daytime
• readable at night
• has an indicator light to show the circuit is/is not closed

Has anyone had any experience with them?

BEST !

RWS
They can also custom make the gauge panels

 

[Bill Curtis]

I completely re-switched my last boat, Chaparral 2550 SX Sport, with switches from NewWire, about 5 or 6 years ago.
They delivered fast and I got exactly what I ordered.

Although it was a fairly expensive undertaking, the prices were still lower than most of the competition. The selections available were almost overwhelming, when considering if you just wanted to replace, or upgrade. I went the "Full Monte"
and went top of the line. Didn't regret decision after it was all completed.

Replacing all the switches was a true test of patience, but was definitely rewarding when completed.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

I completely re-switched my last boat, Chaparral 2550 SX Sport, with switches from NewWire, about 5 or 6 years ago.
They delivered fast and I got exactly what I ordered.

Although it was a fairly expensive undertaking, the prices were still lower than most of the competition. The selections available were almost overwhelming, when considering if you just wanted to replace, or upgrade. I went the "Full Monte"
and went top of the line. Didn't regret decision after it was all completed.

Replacing all the switches was a true test of patience, but was definitely rewarding when completed.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Thank You !

Looks like NEWIRE will be the ONE !

BEST !

RWS