Painting bravo 3 sterndrive

[StefanFL]

I'm preparing outdrive for painting and noticed that bearing carrier is originally not painted.

Since the drive was media blasted, I believe whatever protective coat it had is gone.

Is there any reason not to paint it together with the drive?

Regarding painting process, idea is following. 1. fill small pitts with marine jb.
2. sand everything smooth with p220 sandpaper
3. preKote treatment (supposed to be non toxic replacement for alumaprep33 and alodine)
4. zinc chromate primer 2 light coats.
5. phantom black 3-4 light coats.

 

[JHornsby3]

I would put a single layer of tape on it and see if there is any rubbing. That layer of tape is to simulate the primer and paint that would go down. If you think it might be thicker than the single layer then put two layers. If it doesn't rub, I would paint it.

Or looking at it again, just take the whole thing down and have it anodized purple or hot pink.

 

[StefanFL]

Haven't thought about the prop clearance, good point, will check it. My concern was that they might left it exposed for mercathode to do it's thing or something.
I'm on a freshwater lake, so I thought this preKote things as prep should work fine, wasn't confident using alodine on a driveway, since I would have to wash it off and it would flow everywhere.

 

[JHornsby3]

In my gravel farm driveway, I call that dust control.

Google the lower drive for photos and see what you find. If it looks painted then paint it. If it looks bare, then paint it. Naw, just kidding. If it looks bare then you can leave it bare. Clearance is all I would worry about. As for the mercathode, it should work painted or not. I would call that more protection for the inner working verses inside and out.

 

[StefanFL]

outdrive is painted, looks solid.
I have small amount of rust on yokes, surface, no pitting, is it ok to wipe it with rust remover?

I purchased this outdrive, wasn't on my boat previously, but it doesn't look like water went through bellow, as the surface rust is only on one side. it was stored outside for few days after blasting, so it's probably cause of rusty surface.

 

[JHornsby3]

I just hit that stuff with a green scratchy pad and use a little grease on it. Just to keep it very lightly lubed until it gets removed for winter storage. Then I lube it up again. Because everything in Oregon rusts. If it doesn't rust, it grows mold or moss.

 

[boatman37]

Looks good. Have you found or priced new stickers for it? I did awhile ago and maybe I was looking at the wrong thing but IIRC they were like $250 for the Bravo 3 sticker set? Sound right? Thought about painting mine and replacing the stickers but at that price I'll leave the tattered stickers on it...lol

 

[JHornsby3]

I just seen the decal set for a lot less than that. It was something like, $70 or so. I about broke my hand trying to get my wallet out of my pocket then seen they were for the B-3 not the A-1G2

 

[StefanFL]

I found a set of stickers on ebay for 18$. They look same as original, waiting for paint to cure few more days before putting them on.

 

[boatman37]

Gonna look for some cheaper somewhere. I'd like to pull mine and have it blasted and repainted to look like new. Mine looks pretty good now but not shiny

 

[StefanFL]

I'm planning to install drive in few weeks, and pull it out again in April for inspection and maintenance. so will let you know how it holds.

I read everywhere that factory paint is much more durable then anything diy, and it's best to just clean/#scuff old paint and prime/paint it.
On first glance it looks that primer bonded really nice, but only time will tell.

 

[douglee25]

A two part epoxy paint is your best bet, but not many people have the ability or equipment to paint that. If you have some knowledge, go buy the Harbor freight purple gun and have at it.

 

[HawkX66]

How was it media blasted? What material? If you didn't completely disassemble it first, do each piece separately and clean each piece, I'd be removing the covers to see how much media got in between the seals. Although it does a fantastic job, media like aluminum oxide gets everywhere.
Looks great otherwise!

 

[StefanFL]

white aluminum oxide, I haven't blasted it myself, shop from which I purchased the drive did.
I took back cover to clean cavity where shifting mechanism is and seal seems fine. pressure tested few hours at 10psi... rotated shafts few times, all good.


Ye, 2 part paint would be great, but I don't have equipment, I have very small air compressor so it's what it is.

I didn't dissasble it before the paint, because oil was inside and it would be pain to clean bare aluminum property. will probably separate lower to check water intake and exhaust as I'm waiting for spot at self-service yard to pull the boat out.