Painting an outdrive for use in salt water.

[Hoplite808]

My new to me 1996 270 Sundancer needs a new bravo 3 outdrive and I’m trying to plan on the best ways to protect it from the salt water it will live in. Apparently 26 years in the Pacific Ocean was all the original one could take.

I keep my boat in a slip in Hawaii so boating season is year round and she stays in the water in a slip as I have no trailer for it nor a place to park one. Even if I could get a trailer Hawaii is a stupid place for them and annual registrations, safety checks, government inspections for VIN’s that don’t exist, ramp fees, and tax after tax after tax, and routinely unavailable maintenance parts, no parking anywhere near the boat ramps, and a bunch of other nonsense makes a trailer not really viable for me. So, it lives in the water.

I’ve got real zinc anondes to mount on it for use in the saltwater rather than the aluminum or other metal ones. I’ve also restored the Mercathode system to functioning again after the previous owner for reasons unknown to anyone but them disabled it.

The previous owner also had the boat hauled out last year and had the outdrive painted with the rattle can antifouling paint yet everything seems to want to grow on the drive and the diver who does bottom cleaning at my marina refuses to take on the job of cleaning my boat for reasons unknown to me. So, it’s just me with a brush and free diving fun times as I have no scuba gear.

I’ve been reading a bit on the Propspeed paints for this and if their claims are accurate it might be the best thing to paint the replacement outdrive with. What is everyone’s experience with the best antifouling paints for mercruiser outdrives in salt water and other ways to try and protect the outdrive from salt water?

 

[Espos4]

this is after 6 months in salt water. I use Trilux 33 brushed on, not sprayed. It’s ugly as sh!t but works great for salt water.

A short haul 1-2 times per year for a power wash would be good.

Mercury actually recommends aluminum anodes for a B3 in salt water.

 

[Hoplite808]

@Espos4 don’t really care what it looks like as long as it works. I’ll look into the trilux. Also thanks for the info on the anodes.

 

[Jeff Delbuono]

By far the best stuff i have ever used. I use on drives, trim tabs and all metal parts under water.

 

[Fill Ess]

This is a great place to buy anodes but if nothing else this page shows the different versions:

https://www.boatzincs.com/mercruiser-aluminum.html

 

[Fill Ess]

Also make sure to get separate ones for the trim tabs as those don't come in the kits.

 

[Espos4]

Also make sure to get separate ones for the trim tabs as those don't come in the kits.

Even though they are on the trim tabs, I believe they are referred to as “rudder” anodes. Use that term when searching for them.

 

[Bill Curtis]

Even though they are on the trim tabs, I believe they are referred to as “rudder” anodes. Use that term when searching for them.

They have the tab anodes. The rudder ones are a 2 pack that clamshell the rudder, with one anode has a captured nut and the other has a thru hole for bolt. The tab anode is a single anode with the captured S/S nut in it.

 

[MaSnaka]

On my bravo III the only aluminum anodes are on the rams. The others are all zinc. Also you dont want to use the copper anti fouling paint on your outdrives. Dissimilar metals oxidize. Mine seem to grow sea life and the boat bottom not so much. I have a diver who cleans once a month. Also running the boat through the water regular helps too. At near $10/mile in fuel costs I'm doing less driving.

John