Overheating problem

LTS,

yes it it does have water pump on engine. My understanding is there is one in the out drive as well. Maybe I am missing something here but wouldn't water be circulated though lower unit and through engine?
 
There is no pump in the B3 out drive.

When (or before) removing the pump for repair you can test the water flow into the pump by removing the feed hose on the back of the pump. That is why I asked if you were in the water or on a trailer. If in the water, you MUST be prepared to block off the infeed hose or raise it and secure it above the boats water line. Otherwise water will rush in faster than you can pump it out.

It is possible that this feed line has somehow become blocked/kinked. Not very common from what I read, but possible. Since it would be an early step in any pump removal you would know early on if the pump was getting water or not.
 
Hi all,

Sorry for late response as duty calls (someone has to pay the bills).

Well this has been an education. Two things most of you were correct on; there is no pump in a Bravo O/D and the impeller was in bad shape. In any case the biggest problem was removing water pump as one of the 2 double threaded bolts seized up half way through the removal process. It was a beast to remove however now it is history. The only thing left now is to test it. If not muffs on the out drive I am guessing the best thing to do is install a in line flush (T valve) with hose adapter in direct line of sea water valve?

Not sure; is that best way?

You our guys are great! You can find things on the web however it is nice hearing from folks who lived it! I can only hope to return the favor.

Thanks

Bob
 
If you didn't use any threadlocker I wouldn't worry about now but next time you pull any bolts off the engine I always use Loctite Blue 242 threadlocker it's made to be able to remove the bolts or nuts without any problem. DO NOT USE THE RED IT'S PERMANET.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/15/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm

As far as putting a tee with a ball valve in your boat that would be up to you, I'm in the process of putting a flush kit on mine now that it's in a boat house and it's a pain to put muffs on in the water.

Here's my idea on another post nobody has given any opinion yet, or I'll use Perko 0457DP7 COMPLETE FLUSH PRO KIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181151344817?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Anybody know of another way either better or a kit that's not cheap plastic?
Salt Away says you can flush with salt water but I'd still need to put a tee on it for the unit.
Here's my idea on how it would work.
A) Groco valve on normal sea water thru outdrive.
B) Groco valve turned off to tee to connect fresh water hose to salt away unit, flush engine.
C) Groco valve back to normal on position.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/73941-Flush-Kit-any-ideas-that-may-be-helpful
 
Bob and Sue,

I did use loctite paste this time. I believe it is zinc based. Problem was I think the previous owner did not. In addition boat is out of water, you indicated muffs. I have a Bravo 3 and I thought and was told muffs would not work on a Bravo 3 and would burn out pump. I can not find info on web to test run out of water.

any ideas?

Thanks again,

Bob
 
Muffs should work fine on Bravo 3 drives, most people use them on Bravo 3's. Make sure that the drive is the source of the cooling water and not a thru hull pickup. To make sure I had water in the pump prior to startup I played it safe by priming the pump. My boat was raw water cooled(no heat exchanger like closed cooled). I did this by pulling a plug out of the thermostat housing and filling it up with the garden hose until I had water coming out of the stern of the boat.
 
Woody,

thanks for for quick response. How can I tell for sure as to source of water? Like yourself I have raw water pump. Just got through rebuilding it so I am assuming it is thru hull? If so muffs still work? And is sea ok closed or open?
 
Just follow the hose on the inlet side of the sea water pump it will either go to the aft of your boat to the drive or it will go to a thru hull pickup. You should find out if you have a thru hull inlet I would keep it closed while your boat is in the water not being used. Just another area if something fails it could sink the boat. I keep the only thru hull on mine closed it's for the macerator pump only turn it off & on several times a year so it won't freeze up.

Disclaimer I've never done this so maybe someone else knows the correct procedure.
If you have a thru hull pickup I know some folks that turn it off and put a hose in the strainer to run the engine on the hard.
 
Bob and Sue,

Woody,

Not to worry about disclaimer. Any problems are on me as I am seeking advice and understand there are variables in info to consider. In any case I checked and the inlet on the raw water pump goes directly to seacok/intake strainer in hull. There is only that hose going from hull intake to raw water pump. So in your experience will muffs on the out drive work as woody indicated? And is seacok closed during this process keeping in mind boat is not in water.
 
your going to need the flushing device that looks like a toilet plunger. Of course the seacock is open
 
Scoflaw

I have the west marine catalog and I see what your talking about. The unit is $49 and change. I also saw the "pro engine flushing system" for twice the price however looks like a much better way and it is permanent. I am thinking of installing that..should work....

thanks

Bob
 
Bob McDonough said:
Bob and Sue,

Woody,

Not to worry about disclaimer. Any problems are on me as I am seeking advice and understand there are variables in info to consider. In any case I checked and the inlet on the raw water pump goes directly to seacok/intake strainer in hull. There is only that hose going from hull intake to raw water pump. So in your experience will muffs on the out drive work as woody indicated? And is seacok closed during this process keeping in mind boat is not in water.
Click to expand...
If your getting your water from a thru hull seacock then the muffs will not work.
 
Bob,

My Cobalt has a Mercruiser Jackshaft model. Because of that it does not get cooling water through the outdrive. Cooling water is sucked in the bottom of the boat via a through-hull fitting. It then goes through a seacock (ball valve) an elbow, then an in-line oil cooler and lastly the raw water pump. When I owned this boat 22 years ago I was always concerned that it had a raw water cooling system and spent its life in salt water. To remedy this situation I swapped the elbow for a brass tee, reduced one side to 3/4", ran a hose to the transom and installed a fitting with a cap that allowed me to connect a garden hose to the system. All I had to do was close the raw water ball valve, connect the garden hose and turn on the water. This allowed me to flush the motor with fresh water. When finished I disconnected the hose, put the cap on and opened the ball valve.

I just re-installed the motor and got it running and used this system on the trailer to cool the motor while I was getting it started. This system would work for you as well and you could put the hose connection anywhere. To be honest, I wish I had never mounted it on the transom. I will be down working on this boat this weekend if you would like me to take some pictures.

Shawn
 
Shawn,

you describe exactly what I want to do. As an added convenience It will also allow flushing while in water. They have these flush kits at West Marine and Overtons for $100. Or more. I figure it can be done for less than $25.
If you have a chance pictures would be great!

thanks for the help,

Bob
 
Bob & Sue said:
If you didn't use any threadlocker I wouldn't worry about now but next time you pull any bolts off the engine I always use Loctite Blue 242 threadlocker it's made to be able to remove the bolts or nuts without any problem. DO NOT USE THE RED IT'S PERMANET.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/15/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm

As far as putting a tee with a ball valve in your boat that would be up to you, I'm in the process of putting a flush kit on mine now that it's in a boat house and it's a pain to put muffs on in the water.

Here's my idea on another post nobody has given any opinion yet, or I'll use Perko 0457DP7 COMPLETE FLUSH PRO KIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181151344817?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Anybody know of another way either better or a kit that's not cheap plastic?
Salt Away says you can flush with salt water but I'd still need to put a tee on it for the unit.
Here's my idea on how it would work.
A) Groco valve on normal sea water thru outdrive.
B) Groco valve turned off to tee to connect fresh water hose to salt away unit, flush engine.
C) Groco valve back to normal on position.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/73941-Flush-Kit-any-ideas-that-may-be-helpful
Click to expand...
@bob
Bob & Sue said:
If you didn't use any threadlocker I wouldn't worry about now but next time you pull any bolts off the engine I always use Loctite Blue 242 threadlocker it's made to be able to remove the bolts or nuts without any problem. DO NOT USE THE RED IT'S PERMANET.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/15/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm

As far as putting a tee with a ball valve in your boat that would be up to you, I'm in the process of putting a flush kit on mine now that it's in a boat house and it's a pain to put muffs on in the water.

Here's my idea on another post nobody has given any opinion yet, or I'll use Perko 0457DP7 COMPLETE FLUSH PRO KIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181151344817?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Anybody know of another way either better or a kit that's not cheap plastic?
Salt Away says you can flush with salt water but I'd still need to put a tee on it for the unit.
Here's my idea on how it would work.
A) Groco valve on normal sea water thru outdrive.
B) Groco valve turned off to tee to connect fresh water hose to salt away unit, flush engine.
C) Groco valve back to normal on position.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/73941-Flush-Kit-any-ideas-that-may-be-helpful
Click to expand...

@Bob & Sue - How was your experience with the "Perko 0457DP7 COMPLETE FLUSH PRO KIT". I operate in salt water and acutely aware of how expensive it is to replace corroded risers and exhaust manifolds. Thinking this could save me thousands of dollars over time?
 
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