Oil/Fuel cooler advice

jeffrey vargas

Active Member
Feb 4, 2019
310
Sacramento, Ca
Boat Info
2008 Sundancer 48
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2004 Sundancer 390
2001 Sundancer 380
2000 Sundancer 34
Engines
Cummins QSC 8.3
In doing my aftercooler maintenance, I'm also going through my fuel/oil cooler. I stripped the paint of and then let it sit in a mix of diluted muriatic acid to clean it. It cleaned up nicely. after closer inspection, I noticed these internal cracks on the seawater inlet side from the seawater pump. Does anyone have advice on how to pressure test this thing? Better to buy a new one? There was no indication of water in the gear oil or in the fuel. I just don't want to have any problems and since I'm this far, I'm wondering if I should just go new. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance!
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Hard to tell from the angle of the pic, but that kinda looks flash from the parting line in the casting to me.

-Tom
 
Jeffrey

Ive been in a similar situation many times. My gut always told me to replace but you hate to spend the money. We custom made caps to pressure test them and made sure they held 15psi for a few hours. In my 3rd year of ownership I just replaced them both and I sure sleep better at night.

as a side note, I do t think muratic acid is the right thing to use. It can dissolve the solder joints in the cooler. I use etch and prep from Home Depot which is phosphoric acid.
 
Hard to tell from the angle of the pic, but that kinda looks flash from the parting line in the casting to me.

-Tom
I agree. I'd probably use a high speed burr bit and grind off the area and then perhaps a dye pen to be sure.
Jeffery, PM me if you like. I'm pretty close and would be happy to lend a hand.
Rusty
 
Jeffrey

Ive been in a similar situation many times. My gut always told me to replace but you hate to spend the money. We custom made caps to pressure test them and made sure they held 15psi for a few hours. In my 3rd year of ownership I just replaced them both and I sure sleep better at night.

as a side note, I do t think muratic acid is the right thing to use. It can dissolve the solder joints in the cooler. I use etch and prep from Home Depot which is phosphoric acid.
Yes, agree all on points. It'll make me feel better too and keep me from checking the gear oil all the time.
 
I agree. I'd probably use a high speed burr bit and grind off the area and then perhaps a dye pen to be sure.
Jeffery, PM me if you like. I'm pretty close and would be happy to lend a hand.
Rusty
Thanks Rusty, appreciate the willingness to assist. The spot is pretty tight and the time I have in the day is even tighter, lol. I'll probably just get a new one and make this one a side project to see if I can make it a spare.
 

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