Oil Change - Quick Question

[Lazy Daze]

If I change my oil more often, the results will get better and better. Got me to thinking...how hard can it be to stick a pump down the hole and change it myself. Does anyone do this and what do I need to buy to get it done?

You'll need a good pump, not necessarily expensive. A container for the oil. Some heavy plastic bags for the used filters. A bunch of rags. A bunch of rags. A bunch of rags. Actually, it doesn't have to be messy, but it's better to be prepared. Since you're in the water, maybe a couple oil diapers, too - just in case.

Manual pumps (like this: http://www.jabsco.com/products/mari...d_pumps_337xx_34060_series/iid_2049/index.htm ) are very reliable, but can be messier than 12v or vacuum pumps. The top and bottom parts (red rubber, in that pic) have a tendency to sometimes slip off as oil gets in there. Make sure to keep downward pressure on the pump as you pull the handle up. It's not hard, but it's not an easy pull, either. You will get a bit of a workout. But, it does the job.

Other pumps (12v) will have alligator clips to attach to a battery. They start around $30 and go up from there. You get what you pay for. However, you're not using it everyday. I would advise against buying the cheapest one - but don't spend $200, either. There's even some that attach directly to a hand drill.

Another type is similar to the hand pump, but the pump is attached directly to an oil container so it sucks the oil out and right into the containeer (but be sure it holds enough to empty both your engines at once for convenience sake).

As far as containers are concerned, make sure you get one that isn't going to easily tip over.

Look around, check things out. If you have questions, don't be afraid to ask.

 

[Asureyez]

The dip stick tube oil removal pump works well as long as you have warm oil. The dip tube needs to be secure as well so it is not lost. I have a pump that is drill driven to extract oil samples and it works well and would easily handle a 5 -6 quart oil change. But, 20 quarts... it would be a tiresome project just to get the oil out.

I find it interesting to see the difference in experiences from owners of similar engines. I always stick to factory or Factory recommended spares and consumeables. I noted the the experience above of merc filters vs. discount store "fits or equal to" filters and agree. Stick to what is known to work.

To change the filters on my three engines costs about 250 bucks, I could save maybe 40 bucks to buy a Wix, NADA or other brand, but in the end, Why? The cost difference over a years use is maybe a hundred bucks, but the failure costs from poor oiling would always be 10K or more even for the genny.

If I can't get a proper filter when needed, I'd rather continue to run on an old filter with new oil and then just switch out the filters later than to just slap on a off brand filter.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I find it interesting to see the difference in experiences from owners of similar engines. I always stick to factory or Factory recommended spares and consumeables. I noted the the experience above of merc filters vs. discount store "fits or equal to" filters and agree. Stick to what is known to work.

I totally agree. With my truck, I've been able to find filtering specs and have found a WIX to be of better quality than GM. But, I haven't found those types of comparisons/specs for the marine industry. Until I find emperical evidence that an aftermarket filter is better, I'll stick with Merc.

 

[dpmulvey]

So I went down to the boat with the Service Manager and pulled the dipsticks. The consistencly was that of newer oil, but it is black. He told me that because we did the oil change in water, the pump from the dipstick hole. This makes it impossible to get all of the oil out. If I change my oil more often, the results will get better and better. Got me to thinking...how hard can it be to stick a pump down the hole and change it myself. Does anyone do this and what do I need to buy to get it done? Also, where are the filters I need to change and can I get them at West Marine, or where do I go? I know there is a drop of for the old oil that is walking distance from my slip...so I am good there.

There are several ways to skin this cat from simple to exotic. Google "marine oil change pump" (no quotes) to view the spectrum. The hand pumps work just fine. Make sure the capacity of the container is greater than your engine oil capacity. DAMHIK!! A good hand unit can be had for $70 or so.

Middle of the road is a quick change unit (12V) for a couple of hundred dollars that allows you to evac the oil directly from the oil pan to a conatiner in the cockpit or on the dock depending on the unit. I like them because it is a one stop shop for your engines and generator.

The exotic are engine pre/post lubers with reversable pumps. They run around $4 - 5 hudred.

Yes it is very easy and the pump will pay for itself in a couple of changes max.

HTH

EDIT ADD: DO NOT GET THE UNITS THAT ATTACH TO A POWER DRILL. THEY ARE A WASTE OF MONEY!!

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

I'm sure Merc does not make there own filters.
They dont even make a lot of there own engines.
Small outboards are Tohatsu blocks
Inboards are GM blocks
Napa and Car Quest are made by Wix.
Standard Napa is junk,
Napa's gold filters should be the standard Wix filter.

MOBIL 1 and KN filters are much better then Wix.
High performance and extended drain capability's.
Heavy duty canisters and synthetic media inside.
(Holds more dirt)
Wix is your basic, Safe filter to go with. (Normal service)
Merc filters are probably a standard Wix filter.
Run away from a Fram.

Mobil 1 and KN can be bought at good auto parts stores. 15.00 bucks

15/40 Fleet Gas/Diesel motor oils. Like Shell Rotella/Chevron Delvac is really good oil 8.00 Gal?

Or a good 20/50 Synthetic motor oil should be good for a once a year change.

Im using a good hand pump. Pump 30 times. It pulls 6qts out.
I dont like it. Need to have the oil temp just right.

Don't they make a drain hose that connects to the drain Plug?
Then run the hose out the plug in the stern?
Get the oil real hot. Then let drain in a oil recycle bucket overnight.

Getting away from a OEM filter and oils is not to save money.
Its to upgrade over the OEM filter and oil.

The 15/40 wgt fleet oils are commercial grade oils.
Designed to protect $50k 500hp+ turbo diesel engines and fleet gas engines in commercial use.
They have the best additive package available
the dino oil is so cheap. Because the semi truck diesel engines hold like 14 gals of oil
A person needs a break somewhere. :huh:

 

[rondds]

Like with batteries, there are only a handful of companies that actually manufacture oil filters. If you think Merc manufactures your merc filter you are sadly mistaken. That being said, it is very difficult to put your finger on who makes the best oil filters. I have consistenly used Wix on everything and, like the rest of you, have had no problems. Wix, btw, is one of those manufacturers - they make all the NAPA stuff and some automotove OEM stuff (I'm thinking Motorcraft but not sure). I have never heard of any catastrophic oil filter failures, either in automobile or marine applications. Thus I refuse to pay double for something because it says Mercruiser/Quicksilver on it.

Regarding oil color, I do my own changes. I can get just about 5 1/2 quarts out of my 7 quart capacity, with hot oil and a good manual suction fluid extractor. After the oil change and running the engines, it is maintains it's amber tone.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I agree with both of you about Merc not making their own filter. But, it could be made to Merc's specs (maybe not). All I'm saying is without knowing for sure, I wouldn't chance skimping a few bucks. I also agree on not paying more for something just because it says Merc on it. However, I just put a new rear main seal on and the NAPA one was not as nice as the Merc.

On the other side, I also just did the timing gear set. The Merc one is like $180. For a single roller, no frills???? No way! I bought the exact same thing from Summit for about $55 - has the same GM part number stamped on it and everything.

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

When you spend to much time on the computer :smt021

You can find test on anything.
Cutting open oil filters, Pleat Counts, More pleats ='s more dirt holding filtering material used,
They tested for,
Size of Dirt Microns stopped, filtering efficiency's, by pass valves,build quality, etc.
There is some really junk filters out there.
One actually had a string wrapped around the paper element.
Giving it support from bursting :lol:

The synthetic media filters blocked the smallest microns and held the most dirt.
Makes since.They were designed for extended oil changes with synthetic oils.

The mechanical 5.9 Cummins diesels in the 90's dodges would blow out the canisters on fram oil filters.
The OEM filter is a WIX on the 97 5.9 Cummins dodge.

Read on the 07 and earlier Scion XB
Owners were only getting one turn on the fram filter before it bottomed out. Factory was over 3 turns. Everyone went KN filter.
I just went Mobil 1 on my 08 XB
Cost me an extra 5.00 to go with the Mobil 1 filter.
An extra 3.00 a qt for the synthetic oil.
I'm good till 4/2010
Factory dino oil calls for oil change every 4 months. Even if not driven.
Dino oils break down. Synthetics do not.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Actually some "string" filters can be absolutely excellent. Check out the following link for the FS 2500. I would like to put this on my truck - just don't have the coin for it right now. By the way, it doesn't replace your regular filter - it's a bypass. Amsoil has something similar. Apparently the FS2500 will filter the oil so well, it will actually turn black oil to amber again by filtering out all the impurities. http://www.fs2500.com/ I know of a decent number of people using this on their truck and they say it does exactly as advertised.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Also, where are the filters I need to change

I believe they're right on top by the lube monitor bottle. I'm not sure if the location changes with Horizons. If I'm correct, be sure to wrap a rag around the base of the filter, then punch a hole in the top with a large screwdriver and hammer - gently, but make it a decent size so you create a vent for the oil to drain out. Give it a few minutes, then you can remove the filter - there may be a bit still there - hence the rag.

Follow the fuel line to the starboard/front corner of the engine. There's a black, plastic box there. It separates easily (it should). Inside is the fuel filter - looks like an oil filter. Unscrew it - hold a container of some sort underneath to catch some errant fuel.

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

You cant go wrong with OEM parts.
Probably safer buying OEM seals, bearing, etc.
Too many after market company's competing for business on replacement parts.

I bought a lifetime warranty aftermarket water pump for my 5.7 at a auto parts store. Lasted maybe 100 hrs.
They gave me another one free.
Its probably due to start leaking on my shake down run.:grin:

I heard most of Toyota. TRD Toyota racing development. Does not make most there own parts.
They test what another company has made. If they like, Then they put there name on it.:huh:

That could be Internet bogus Ive read.
Think I will email Summit.
Maybe they have a killer deal on a complete GM 8.1 marine engine.

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

Actually some "string" filters can be absolutely excellent. Check out the following link for the FS 2500. I would like to put this on my truck - just don't have the coin for it right now. By the way, it doesn't replace your regular filter - it's a bypass. Amsoil has something similar. Apparently the FS2500 will filter the oil so well, it will actually turn black oil to amber again by filtering out all the impurities. http://www.fs2500.com/ I know of a decent number of people using this on their truck and they say it does exactly as advertised.

Pretty cool,
I left out all the amsoil stuff.
There filter is suppose to be a little better then a Mobil 1.
Unreal Merc has there oil filter upside down.
Punching the hole in the canister. Guess not much dirt can flow back into the engine.

The marine power 8.1 has two filters right side up on the top rear of engine. Very Nice.
I have no room for there crank driven impeller when I repower.

mmcguire2002,
Read the directions on the filter.
Usually says something like hand tighten only.
3/4 to 1 turn after the O ring seats.
I like a solid 1 turn.
Mashing that 0ring real good.

I think they will probably change your oil again. Or this time.
When they see how unusually dirty the oil became.
They should want to keep there customers, Hopefully.
Would not hurt to check the tightness of the filters and drain plugs after they redo them.
Kind of sucks paying 120.00 per hr.
Then not wanting to risk a mechanic having a attitude

Sure was busy at your marina during the halibut tourney :grin: