Oil Analysis

[BillK2632]

So I decided since this boat is new to me, I would send an oil sample off to Blackstone. Here is what they came back with.

Engine: 2014 VP 300 (5.7, raw water cooled) 287hrs.
Oil: Volvo Penta 10w30 mineral oil, 60hrs
Their comments:
"The mechanical parts didn't put much metal in to the oil—the wear metals compare
nicely to universal averages (which are based on ~45 hours of oil use). Note the viscosity was low for 10W/30. Fuel
dilution read at 0.5%, which is harmless."

So sounds to me based on the oil analysis there are no issues - normal results. The one interesting thing they mentioned was that the oil viscosity was low for 10w30. I bought the boat in August 2022 with just over 200hrs. Being new to Cobalt and Volvo Penta, I had the dealer service it that first year -- they use the Volvo Penta 10w30 in older and smaller engines and the 10w40 Synthetic in the new ones. I knew the prior owner, he bought it from and had this dealer do all of the service work. VP recommends either oil for my engine. This past fall I serviced the boat myself and switched to the Volvo Penta 10w40 Synthetic (also use the Volvo Penta gear lube, filters etc). So, I am thinking my switch to the 10w40 oil was a good one. I don't necessarily think the 10w30 Mineral is bad, but it was showing some degradation after 60hrs of use - or maybe even new it was not up to spec.
I will probably have the oil analyzed next year - this was a nice bit of information to ponder over during the winter.

 

[PlaneGuy]

I use Blackstone as well and have for the last three boats I have owned. They will use your first test as a baseline and each time you use them it will give you a better picture of what your engines are doing. In the two boats I had with Crusaders I used straight 40w oil as recommended and always had a low viscosity for some reason.

 

[Skybolt]

I have used Blackstone for years. They keep a history and notify you on things you wouldn't think to were bad. I highly recommend them and using them every year. I though about switching to Cat, but then I loose my history, so now I pay a little more.

As for the oil weight, I would run 15w40. Your in a hot area of the country and the oil will break down quicker as a result. JMO.

 

[Lazy Daze]

As noted, continued use of oil analysis is even more productive/informative.

A GM small block, whether it's painted red or black or whatever, is a great engine. The engine is the same regardlass of what brand. The hours you have on that engine are definitely on the low side - do your normal due dilligence and you've got hundreds and hundreds of hours to go.

Unless it's a catalyst engine, which it sounds like it probably isn't...

Personally, I wouldn't bother with synthetic. Regular dino oil will be just fine. Heck, in addition to what was mentioned above, you could use the 25W-40 that comes in the black jug, if you wanted to.

Same for filters - you can buy as good, or better, filters w/o the Volvo price tag. For example... I bet if you look at your fuel filter (you have a cartridge style, I think?), it might have the Mann part number right on it?

Nothing wrong with the Volvo stuff - it's good stuff - but they seem to be even more proud of their products than Merc

All that said... if you like the synthetic and feel better about using it - go for it. It's not like it's THAT big of a cost difference when you factor in it's usually just once a year.

 

[BillK2632]

This one is a catalyst engine. As far as filters, yes I agree, it can use the exact same Mann filter that I use in one of our Volvo cars, so plan to start using those. Could certainly switch to a non Volvo brand oil - plenty out there that would do just fine. And yes Volvo is even prouder of their stuff that Merc - I went ahead this first year of doing the work myself and just bought from the dealer, that way I know I am getting the right parts. Having the dealer right there if/when I need something is nice. But it was a sin what I paid for some filters, oil and gear lube. They were pretty blue and white and look good on the red engine!

 

[Lazy Daze]

Having the dealer right there if/when I need something is nice.

That's worth something, right there.

With a catalyst engine, I would stick with the synthetic. According to Merc, anyways, non-synthetic has been found to coat/damage the catalyst and/or foul the O2 sensors. To be honest, I'm not sure why when we don't see that happening in cars... maybe it's the proximity to the engine.. maybe it's just the way the marine engines get used... I don't know the actual reason behind it. But Merc is very insistent on this point.

 

[BillK2632]

Yeah VP is the same and talks about a catalyst approved oil in their manual - use it or catalyst damage could occur. They say of course THEIR oils are catalyst approved.

Don't want to turn this into an oil thread - we have plenty of those - but the Blackstone oil analysis was a fun exercise that yielded some good information. I think I will make this an annual thing.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Don't want to turn this into an oil thread - we have plenty of those - but the Blackstone oil analysis was a fun exercise that yielded some good information. I think I will make this an annual thing.

100% agree - I only wanted to add that info about the catalyst as it seemed like this was your first go around with one of those.

Yup - for the small fee that they charge for the anaylsis, you really do get a lot out of it. There's also local CAT dealers in most areas that can do it, too - if you'd rather not mail things. I've used both Blackstone and CAT and was always very happy with both reports.

 

[BillK2632]

Appreciate your insight. This is my first rodeo with VP and a catalyst engine.

 

[ttmott]

As noted, continued use of oil analysis is even more productive/informative.

A GM small block, whether it's painted red or black or whatever, is a great engine. The engine is the same regardlass of what brand. The hours you have on that engine are definitely on the low side - do your normal due dilligence and you've got hundreds and hundreds of hours to go.

Unless it's a catalyst engine, which it sounds like it probably isn't...

Personally, I wouldn't bother with synthetic. Regular dino oil will be just fine. Heck, in addition to what was mentioned above, you could use the 25W-40 that comes in the black jug, if you wanted to.

Same for filters - you can buy as good, or better, filters w/o the Volvo price tag. For example... I bet if you look at your fuel filter (you have a cartridge style, I think?), it might have the Mann part number right on it?

Nothing wrong with the Volvo stuff - it's good stuff - but they seem to be even more proud of their products than Merc

All that said... if you like the synthetic and feel better about using it - go for it. It's not like it's THAT big of a cost difference when you factor in it's usually just once a year.

Do you happen to watch Engine Masters? They had an entire episode on testing oil filters. Most educating.
WIX oil filters came out pretty much on top of the heap.
If I still had a gasoline powered boat I'd be using WIX.

 

[atrick]

Do you happen to watch Engine Masters? They had an entire episode on testing oil filters. Most educating.
WIX oil filters came out pretty much on top of the heap.
If I still had a gasoline powered boat I'd be using WIX.

Why wouldn't you use Wix filters on a diesel??