Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Diesel Engines/Drives/Transmissions/Props' started by Hampton, Nov 16, 2011.
Thank you for the help, I did find a cross reference to fleetguard filters.
So based on the initial info on this thread I've always used 30 micron filter elements in my Racors. However, speaking to the Cummins certified mechanic that just did my heat exchanger and after cooler service he insisted that Racor elements should be 2 micron not the red 30 micron. I don't know what others use but I just changed out the primaries with 2 micron. Also.....he said to cycle the fuel pump (toggle) 9 times after changing the secondary filter in order to fill them with fresh clean diesel and NOT to fill them manually as we do with oil filters. That way only the highly filtered fuel enters the spin on filter that first time. Just sayin'
Thanks for all the excellent info in this thread. Just ordered enough zincs for the next 3 years, I like paying $2-$3 for a part, so I got a little compulsive with the cheap prices.
So, for the fuel filters... I know that the 2 micron is the word for the secondary. Is it 30 or 10 micron on the main? I see people saying both ways, which is the best option?
You should use a 10 micron in your Racor. A Fleetguard FF5488 for the engine spin on filter (the 5488 is a 2 micron filter and exceeds cummins requirements).
From the Cummins QSC 8.3 Operations Manual:
"The Cummins Common Rail fuel system requires the use of two fuel filters. The suction side filter must have the following characteristics:
- water separating
- 10 Micron rating
- water in fuel sensor with shunt resistor
- water drain valve
Racor 1000MA meets these requirements for marine applications
The pressure side filter must have the following characteristics:
- 3-micron rating
Fleet guard FF5488 meets these requirements"
Thank you, do you have a suggested source for purchase?
guys, my exhaust sensor broke. its the round sensor with two wires on the exhaust elbow right after the turbo. Easier to see on the stb motor . looks like someone hit it with their foot. its Elmwood part # 3100-373-1 rated for 250 degrees. its not a cummins part as its on the exhaust. anyone have a lead ? its a normally open circuit ( go figure )
I did the zincs myself for the first time. I ordered E-1 and E-2 sizes. Only mine, which I assume is the same as others, each motor used 4 E2, 2 in the after cooler and 2 in the heat exchanger. I thought I read that only 2 of the E2 were used per motor but it was 4 for me. I had ordered 20 of the E1 so it looks like I'm good to go on those for a few years to come.
yes, I used 4 per engine as well
Question on oil... Is the Rotella T 15w-40 good? I can have the oil shipped free directly to my marina and that helps me from having to transport 11 gallons myself from AZ to CA in the car. It's $12.97/gallon on Amazon with free shipping.
If it's good, I'll run with it. Otherwise, I'll stick with the Valvoline Blue recommended in this thread. Looks like I can get Valvoline at a Car Quest store 5-7 miles away from my marina and it's $13/gallon also, having it shipped just seems so nice.
I use Rotella T, it was recommended by both the surveyor (Cummins Shop in NY) and my local Cummins shop.
Thank you. No synthetic, right? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...d-3035-4a40-b691-0eefb1a18396&pf_rd_i=desktop
You can use synthetic as long as the oil meets the same API standards and viscosity requirements. You have to maintain the same service intervals as non-synthetic oils.
I have run Rotella T 15W-40, non-synthetic since I bought the boat in 2012 with excellent oil analysis. I ran Valvoline one year and the metals were a little higher. I am a firm believer in Rotella. Their additives seem to work best for the QSC. Best part is that it is not only the best performing, but the least expensive and readily available.
Same for me, have been using Shell Rotella since day one, as my Cummins tech suggested it's was a good and approved application.
Thanks guys... Rotella it is.
I'm back, sort of. Been building a house, after we built the dock and moved the boat to our new lot. Still building a house, for 1 year now since breaking ground. Thinking about purchasing a new raw water pump for the port engine (harder to get to) and keeping the original as a spare. There was a great discussion about it quite a while back. What do you guys recommend for the replacement? You know, a good one.
Thanks, but I am looking for a replacement pump. A few years ago, some guys had excellent recommendations of a company that builds quality replacement pumps for these engines - more reliable than the originals.
You are talking about seaboard marine. Go to submar.com. They designed it themselves.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk