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Has anyone had to replace an oil pressure sending unit on one of our 6CTA’s? I am trying to find a part number or replacement for mine. Seaboard does not have them as there sending units are 2 wire units for VDO type gauge, for some reason the s
Sea Ray 4 in 1 gauge are different, these use a single wire, basically looks like your run of the mill old school oil pressure sending unit with a single stud. I just want to make sure I am ordering the correct part. Haven’t tried Marin Max yet but maybe they have one??
Do you have a mechanical 6CTA or the 480CE?
I bought one a couple years ago when I thought one of mine had failed. Turns out just the wire broke. I just looked up the part number on Quickserve and googled it and ordered online. Although I just checked and can't seem to find it on Quickserve. Maybe I just googled "Cummins 6CTA oil pressor sensor"?They are the mechanical 450C
I bought one a couple years ago when I thought one of mine had failed. Turns out just the wire broke. I just looked up the part number on Quickserve and googled it and ordered online. Although I just checked and can't seem to find it on Quickserve. Maybe I just googled "Cummins 6CTA oil pressor sensor"?
Looks like flounder pounder has the matching 0-100 psi sender for the gauge. Not sure if that's the one I bought. Next time I am on boat I'll check my spares box.I looked on Quikserve too, problem is its not just a 6CTA sending unit, its different due to the dash gauge from Sea Ray. Has to be specific to the gauge..
Looks like flounder pounder has the matching 0-100 psi sender for the gauge. Not sure if that's the one I bought. Next time I am on boat I'll check my spares box.
https://www.searay-parts.com/Gauge-s/36.htm
Also painted the turbos black with a high heat paint and touched up the mains as well.Will see how she fares.
Hey Craig. Can you post a picture of your pressure test setup you made?I pressure tested my older core and it held 30 psi with no leaking. The newer core was also fine.
For anyone looking to build a pressure tester you can do it with about $15 in parts at home depot or a hardware store. I purchased a shrader tank valve with 1/8" mip threads. A 1/2" mip to 1/4" fip brass coupler. A 1/4" mip to 1/8" fip brass coupler. Use pipe dope and thread these three pieces together. Then thread it into one of aftercooler zinc holes. Next I purchased two 1-1/2" flexible end caps. These come with hose clamps installed. These are cinched down on the aftercooler end caps to keep the air in. Thread in your second aftercooler zinc to seal the water side off. Then hook up a bike pump and pump her up to 25-30 psi. I let it sit for a couple hours and saw no loss. I had a bicycle shock pump attached to monitor pressure and fine tune the amount of pressure in there.
Nice job! Zincs, aka anodes, are cheap. Change early, change often.Got them all put back together and ready to run. Need to do some clean up in the bilge but all in all not too bad of a job servicing the cooling side. A few lessons learned: the. Old zincs wreak havoc if they break apart and sit in the cooling passage. May change them mid season to stay ahead of them breaking down completely.The port side is a PIA but not too bad. Still think it’s easier than impellers on the 320. A few pics one is of the blockage I found in the oil cooler. Also painted the turbos black with a high heat paint and touched up the mains as well.Will see how she fares.
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The core problem is the copper bundle and the aluminum housing contacting each other. That sets up a corrosion nightmare over time if they aren't pulled apart every couple of years and a generous layer of Metalube grease smeared between them to minimize their contact. You are seeing the effects of that corrosion by the fact you can't pull them apart. It also causes the inside of the aluminum housing to eat away and get pitted. Eventually it gets bad enough that the o-ring seal is compromised and seawater leaks into the air side and into your engine. I had to throw one of mine away when I bought the boat and buy new when I couldn't get it apart (with a press or heat). Others here have had same experience. I just service a pair run in saltwater this weekend that we serviced three years ago and the core pushed right out with a light touch. There was no sign of any new pitting in the housing. Only way to be sure they aren't leaking is to pressure test them. Some do that every time they service them.Pulled my aftercooler (6CTA)...new to me boat so don't know if they have ever been serviced. Did see where there was a warranty repair to drill weep holes...10 year ago. Port engine was tough and thought I was going to spend the weekend in there until I dropped a few pounds. Easy getting in but removing your body is tough. Aftercoolers look pretty clean...took off end caps and Rydelyme did a nice job on the tubing bundle (done last year). Trying to pull the bundle but no success yet. So why does the tubing bundle need to be pulled? Seal to outer housing is good, mating surfaces good. I have them upright with Kroil on them now....figured I would treat them for 12 hours and then flip them. How many brought these to shop for a press out? Air side looks great from what I can see.