Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

[Njlarry]

Did I miss the prop specs?

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

22 x 22.5

BEST !

RWS

 

[dtfeld]

CAT publishes the Brake-Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) or the amount of Hp produced for a given amount of fuel. The 3100 series are most efficient and have a flat BSFC from 2200-2400 RPM, so you should see your sweet spot somewhere in this range, and likely anywhere from 2100-2400 without much variation. The other factor is I usually see a small dip in the EGT's as I get towards 2400. I usually run 2350-2400 for this reason.

 

[Steve S]

CAT publishes the Brake-Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) or the amount of Hp produced for a given amount of fuel. The 3100 series are most efficient and have a flat BSFC from 2200-2400 RPM, so you should see your sweet spot somewhere in this range, and likely anywhere from 2100-2400 without much variation. The other factor is I usually see a small dip in the EGT's as I get towards 2400. I usually run 2350-2400 for this reason.

 

[dtfeld]

Exactly...3116 300 HP is pretty consistent at 2200-2400, with a little dip at 2500. Your EGT climb to 2300 then dip nicely at 2400. CAT recommends 2400 RPM cruise.

 

[fwebster]

I used mineral spirits to clean the Airsep filter elements ……..for 26 years on my 450DA and never had an issue. I suppose Brakekleen or a more volatile solvent like lacquer thinner might work, but we have no idea what cement the filters were assembled with, so I chose mineral spirits followed washing with dishwashing detergent followed by shaking the excess water out and letting then dry overnight due to the cost of replacing the elements from Walker Engineering. the other advantage is the more volatile solvents could pose a fire risk if for some reason some reason some of the solvent remained in the filter element afterthe cleaning process.

 

[Steve S]

CAT publishes the Brake-Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) or the amount of Hp produced for a given amount of fuel. The 3100 series are most efficient and have a flat BSFC from 2200-2400 RPM, so you should see your sweet spot somewhere in this range, and likely anywhere from 2100-2400 without much variation. The other factor is I usually see a small dip in the EGT's as I get towards 2400. I usually run 2350-2400 for this reason.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Don't know what the difference is between ZONE LIMIT DATA and PROP DEMAND CURVE, but my data is very closely aligned with "CURVE 4" as shown above.

BEST !

RWS

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

I used mineral spirits to clean the Airsep filter elements ……..for 26 years on my 450DA and never had an issue. I suppose Brakekleen or a more volatile solvent like lacquer thinner might work, but we have no idea what cement the filters were assembled with, so I chose mineral spirits followed washing with dishwashing detergent followed by shaking the excess water out and letting then dry overnight due to the cost of replacing the elements from Walker Engineering. the other advantage is the more volatile solvents could pose a fire risk if for some reason some reason some of the solvent remained in the filter element afterthe cleaning process.

Thats my plan moving forward with the replacement elements.

Problem was previous owners, or alleged mechanics treated those elements like footballs.

They were bent, dented and beat up pretty bad.

In getting these engines closer to baseline, it was time to replace and now properly service the new ones moving forward.

I'll do my best to avoid any soccer games in the engine room.

BEST !

RWS

 

[dtfeld]

I used mineral spirits to clean the Airsep filter elements ……..for 26 years on my 450DA and never had an issue. I suppose Brakekleen or a more volatile solvent like lacquer thinner might work, but we have no idea what cement the filters were assembled with, so I chose mineral spirits followed washing with dishwashing detergent followed by shaking the excess water out and letting then dry overnight due to the cost of replacing the elements from Walker Engineering. the other advantage is the more volatile solvents could pose a fire risk if for some reason some reason some of the solvent remained in the filter element afterthe cleaning process.

I bought a K&N kit complete with detergent and oil. I could likely skip the detergent, use Dawn and just buy a big spray bottle of the K&N filter oil.

But I washed them, let them dry in the sun one afternoon and sprayed with the K&N oil. They looked just like new when reinstalled, a nice even rusty red color.

 

[dtfeld]

Thats my plan moving forward with the replacement elements.

Problem was previous owners, or alleged mechanics treated those elements like footballs.

They were bent, dented and beat up pretty bad.

In getting these engines closer to baseline, it was time to replace and now properly service the new ones moving forward.

I'll do my best to avoid any soccer games in the engine room.

BEST !

RWS

The part number for the 3126's is CD190 which is a 7-1/2x10" cone. The 3116's I beleive use the CD195 which is 7-1/2"x8" cone. PO had the shorter ones installed on the 3126's, I replaced with the correct ones.

I have the old set sitting on my spares shelf if anybody needs another set.

 

[kvduff]

The part number for the 3126's is CD190 which is a 7-1/2x10" cone. The 3116's I beleive use the CD195 which is 7-1/2"x8" cone. PO had the shorter ones installed on the 3126's, I replaced with the correct ones.

I have the old set sitting on my spares shelf if anybody needs another set.

I also had the shorter versions on mine, I ordered new replacements, found them cheapest at Fisheries Supply , not tax and free shipping! 216 for a set

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

View attachment 161932
View attachment 161933
View attachment 161934

Data above shows for 3116.

Where would I find same for 3126 ?

BEST !

RWS

 

[dtfeld]

Now that I've replaced the belts and put a few hours on, the alternator belt is starting to loosen up and will likely need a re-adjustment. I had the exhaust off the port engine to make it easier, but hoping somebody has a little tip, trick or tool that would make this easier. I removed the guards which I think had an access slot to insert a tool. Its not there.

 

[fwebster]

I made a tool out of about 1/4" aluminum flat bar wiah a small crook bent into the end of it. It fit behind the alternator boay and if you losen t he belt adjustment nut on the alternatos mount, you could move t he alternator out a just enough to tighten the belt, hold it in place with the aluminum bar and tighten the adjustment nut.

All the tools I made were either stainless steel or aluminum to avoid rust in my tool box, wich I made to replace the plastic battery boxes and held things like aluminum rudder backing gland nut wrenches, oil and diesel filter wrenches, etc. I switched to Red top AGM batteries and built this tool boax to be a combination battery box and tool tray

ALso you will find that it takes several adjustments on the alternator and water pump belts to reach the point where they no longer "grow" just by running the engines. Make the adjustment in several steps and don't try to get the adjustment all at once.


Frank

 

[dtfeld]

I made a tool out of about 1/4" aluminum flat bar wiah a small crook bent into the end of it. It fit behind the alternator boay and if you losen t he belt adjustment nut on the alternatos mount, you could move t he alternator out a just enough to tighten the belt, hold it in place with the aluminum bar and tighten the adjustment nut.

All the tools I made were either stainless steel or aluminum to avoid rust in my tool box, wich I made to replace the plastic battery boxes and held things like aluminum rudder backing gland nut wrenches, oil and diesel filter wrenches, etc. I switched to Red top AGM batteries and built this tool boax to be a combination battery box and tool tray

ALso you will find that it takes several adjustments on the alternator and water pump belts to reach the point where they no longer "grow" just by running the engines. Make the adjustment in several steps and don't try to get the adjustment all at once.


Frank

Thank you Frank!

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

I also removed the port engine belt guard.

Saved all the spacers, ty-wrapp attached to their specific mounting points.

I don't however, trust myself with the starboard guard removed.

Perhaps a few of us could get together and get some made (stainless) exactly as Frank W did for his starboard side.

Would make life simpler.

BEST !

RWS

 

[Chris L]

Perhaps a few of us could get together and get some made (stainless) exactly as Frank W did for his starboard side.

Would make life simpler.

BEST !

RWS

I would definitely grab one!

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

COUNT ME IN!!!

 

[Magic]

Does anyone have the blowby ratings for a 3116TA?

Cat sent me the rating for a 150hp 3116 non-marine and said to use the ratio from this to apply to a 350hp engine (as new). i.e. 0.57 x 350 = ~200 L/min (for a new engine).

Agree / disagree?