Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

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I replaced mine 14 years ago (maybe), I bought spares at the time ($7 each) and still have them in my spares storage container on board.
I had a minor lightning strike earlier in the year that took out several of my solenoids. Very odd I thought, but easily fixed.
 
Whatever one you get make sure it has the diode integrated.

Dave - the HSW line pressures are a bit lower than the ZF ones in the graph.
I posted the data some years ago when I instrumented the gears on my 400DA. One gear (port one) was a ZF85IV and the other a Hurth HSW800. They had different hydraulic pressures.
One of the improvements that ZF did on the Hurth was to raise the hydraulic pressure.
Interesting. I have one that reads 280 and the other 310, but rock steady pressures and temps. This after I replaced both pump/shift block to the new style. I used to have weird "drop outs" at cruise RPM that I traced to the old style electical connections on the old style pump/control block. They have been problem free ever since.
 
@Makin I Happen, I need to apologize to you and any other members who read my replies on this subject. A member on this thread private messaged me stating I was wrong, incorrect in my response to you above.

I was not trying to help you solve your boost issue, rather I was responding to your question about cleaning the after cooler. I shared what worked for me and referred you to my YouTube video so you could see how I did it. Others on here taught me how to do this, I was simply returning the favor for you.

@Strecker25 added additional clarity after my post that hopefully helped you.

I apologize for being incorrect and wrong and potentially misguiding you and others on here who were following that discussion.
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Geez, did you see my posts about my heat exchanger rants, I was an idiot... But boy o boy I learned my lesson and actually learned how they work thanks to some very patient contributors on this site. Hang in there, it's all good...
 
Just to make clear old vs new pump control blocks... You can tell by the solenoids and connectors. The old style was an Amp connector that I found to loosen up with vibration and oil on them. I still have some replacements and a crimp tool FYI.

The New style has a couple of advantages, first being the connectors are a a type made mostly for fuel injectors and seem to be more resilient to the vibrations on these diesels, and two the pump control block is tapped to insert a VDO style pressure and temp senders (Marked T&P accordingly). The old style required a little more modification to get a good reading.

Last I checked the new style pump/control blocks were about $700 from Transmision Marine.

Pump Old Style.jpg
Pump New Style.jpg
 
Interesting. I have one that reads 280 and the other 310, but rock steady pressures and temps. This after I replaced both pump/shift block to the new style. I used to have weird "drop outs" at cruise RPM that I traced to the old style electical connections on the old style pump/control block. They have been problem free ever since.
I remember you going through all of that...
 
Interesting. I have one that reads 280 and the other 310, but rock steady pressures and temps. This after I replaced both pump/shift block to the new style.

Same pressures here, have been since day one, never varies. Tags on the trannys say 23 bar, so mine are light or inaccurate gauges (probably not) Tranny oil analysis always comes back perfect. Trannys are all original just under 3000 hours. ZF 280’s. As you know, just watch for changes.
07D88004-9E63-4DD8-B0C3-E396F33D9AC4.jpeg
 
So would this be for a 3116 also? CAT Oil Pressure senders: 7E4275 for single station and 7E4276 for dual station.

Thanks,
Drew
1998 40' Sedan Bridge 3116's


Here's a first post from my 410 File:

Part Numbers
Source: Carter Chapman


CAT part number 1149096 for zinc plug in aftercooler.

CAT oil filter 1R0739

CAT fuel filter 1R0751

CAT Oil Pressure senders: 7E4275 for single station and 7E4276 for dual station.

CAT Impeller Sherwood 17000K SHW

CAT Belts: Alternator belt is a 6F1992. Water pump belt is 0366775.

CAT Fuel Solenoid Relay 115-1615 Relay A -OR- 115-1615X

O’Reilly MasterPro Ignition Relay 2DR1070 –OR- BWD R3112

Reverso Oil Change Pump Impeller – 360010

Westerbeke Oil Filter 36918 Part # JHW-036918

Westerbeke, Belt, 301073 Part #JHW-301073

Westerbeke, Element, Fuel, Lift Pump? 030548, 30548 Part #JHW-030548

Westerbeke, Impeller Kit 33636 Pump, 034440, 34440 Part #JHW-034440;

Johnson 09-810B-1 Johnson Pump F4B Impeller??

Westerbeke, Gasket, Exchanger End, 022851, 22851 Part #JHW-022851

Westerbeke, Zinc, 011885, 11885 Part #JHW-011885 (E-0)

Westerbeke, Fuel Hardware Kit, 201016, Part #UJHW201016

Westerbeke, Element, Fuel Filter, 030200, 30200

Windlass Solenoid 798447

FW Pump Shurflo 4148-153-E75 (Improved Model Replacement for 2095-233-234) Shurflo Tech Support 1-800-854-3218


Racor Filters - www.discountmarinesupplies.com
2010PMOR 30 Micron - Red Cap

2010TMOR 10 Micron - Blue Cap

2010SMOR 2 Micron - Brown Cap


Westerbeke Parts

KISMET Marine. 1-888-956-6946
 
I'd say almost identical across the board even accounting for CAT vs Cummins.

Port

port.jpg


Starboard

star.jpg
 
Made a 35 mile trip with my 400DB. Ran well but on the return, I noticed the Starboard engine started running about 100 rpm less then the port (using engine Sync).
I turn off the sync and could only get 2250 out of the Starboard side. Set the port to 2250 and then Starboard side would fluctuate low.
Left it that way and returned to the harbor. All gage were normal. She responded normally for docking.
Thoughts on what to check? I’m thinking fuel. I did buy fuel yesterday but it’s funny that it is only one engine with an issue. I will switch filters next time I’m at the boat.
Thoughts?
 
Made a 35 mile trip with my 400DB. Ran well but on the return, I noticed the Starboard engine started running about 100 rpm less then the port (using engine Sync).
I turn off the sync and could only get 2250 out of the Starboard side. Set the port to 2250 and then Starboard side would fluctuate low.
Left it that way and returned to the harbor. All gage were normal. She responded normally for docking.
Thoughts on what to check? I’m thinking fuel. I did buy fuel yesterday but it’s funny that it is only one engine with an issue. I will switch filters next time I’m at the boat.
Thoughts?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Happened to me once.

Faulty primer pump. A known failure item as these engines age.

Remember, these items are 20-25-30 years old and seals do dry out, allowing for the introduction of air into the fuel system.

BEST !

RWS
 
Did you try switching tanks to see if it was the fuel? I replaced the fuel priner pump on my starboard engine last year, that was a pain in the butt to get to.
 
Made a 35 mile trip with my 400DB. Ran well but on the return, I noticed the Starboard engine started running about 100 rpm less then the port (using engine Sync).
I turn off the sync and could only get 2250 out of the Starboard side. Set the port to 2250 and then Starboard side would fluctuate low.
Left it that way and returned to the harbor. All gage were normal. She responded normally for docking.
Thoughts on what to check? I’m thinking fuel. I did buy fuel yesterday but it’s funny that it is only one engine with an issue. I will switch filters next time I’m at the boat.
Thoughts?
If you just filled up and no change in exhaust color, I would think racors first thing. Racor make a vacuum gauge T handle that allows you to see a fuel filter restriction without opening them up. I installed a pair a while back and take a peek when checking fluids.

While the primer pump could be an issue typically that shows up as rough running at idle, and tough to get any power out of the engine. Certainly worth a look to make sure the valve is in the Off position and the pump screwed down.

Also check that your throttle cable connection on the engine is tight and hasnt moved such that you cant get full travel.
 
The fun part about reassembling boats (or planes) is when you end up with "extra" parts.
These two cables appear to connect to the starter on one end and are 24" long. The other end is a smaller hole. There is one cable for each engine. They were marked PORT and STBD.
I'm stumped as to where they would connect. Being so short there's not a lot of places to choose.

Any ideas?

IMG_0926.jpeg
 
The fun part about reassembling boats (or planes) is when you end up with "extra" parts.
These two cables appear to connect to the starter on one end and are 24" long. The other end is a smaller hole. There is one cable for each engine. They were marked PORT and STBD.
I'm stumped as to where they would connect. Being so short there's not a lot of places to choose.

Any ideas?

View attachment 149600
Check to see if those are the grounds from the starters to the engine blocks.
The small wire looks to be the ground from the starter solenoid to the block.
 
Now would be a great time to smear some dielectric grease on all those connections. . . . .

BEST !

RWS
 
The fun part about reassembling boats (or planes) is when you end up with "extra" parts.
These two cables appear to connect to the starter on one end and are 24" long. The other end is a smaller hole. There is one cable for each engine. They were marked PORT and STBD.
I'm stumped as to where they would connect. Being so short there's not a lot of places to choose.

Any ideas?

View attachment 149600

+1 for grounds for the engine block
 
Finally got both 3116's started on the hard. They both purr like kittens.:D

Frankly, wasn't prepared for how much water they suck up, even at idle. Had a 10 gallon bucket with what turned out to be an inadequate garden hose.

Since the fuel tanks had been replaced, the Racors and the fuel lines, primed each side using a small 12v diesel pump, sucking fuel all the way to the fuel controller. Worked like a charm.

Used the same pump, with a Racor installed inline, to pump 55 gallons into each tank from two drums used to store the "old" fuel from the removed fuel tanks. Had already polished the diesel going into the drums.
 
Finally got both 3116's started on the hard. They both purr like kittens.:D

Frankly, wasn't prepared for how much water they suck up, even at idle. Had a 10 gallon bucket with what turned out to be an inadequate garden hose.

Since the fuel tanks had been replaced, the Racors and the fuel lines, primed each side using a small 12v diesel pump, sucking fuel all the way to the fuel controller. Worked like a charm.

Used the same pump, with a Racor installed inline, to pump 55 gallons into each tank from two drums used to store the "old" fuel from the removed fuel tanks. Had already polished the diesel going into the drums.
I’m shocked every year when we are winterizing from a bucket how quickly they will pull 8 gallons through.
 

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