Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

Well I figured out the no start condition on my port 3126. After investigating and testing connections in the junction box and at the starter I couldn’t figure out the diffemce between the two motors. Then went and swapped the starters with no change in condition. Began focusing on the neutral safety switch. Figured it had to be located in the shifters nothing on the transmission. Once exposed I Found a broken contact there. Jumped the two wires from the port side switch and engine started. Now need to find a replacement switch, for the these late 90’s teleflex dual shifters.
 
kvduff said:
Can someone tell me where to find the neutral safety switch on a 3126?
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Assuming SeaStar Shift levers and you have electric shift controls i.e solenoids on the transmission control block.

There are some roller switches in the shift levers. I rebuilt mine a couple a years ago with new switches.

Here is the pdf showing where...
 

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  • CH2300P-Neutral-Safety-Switch-CA27100P-Rev.1-IS-CA27100.pdf
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  • CH5600-CH4400-Electric-Switch-Kit-CA69027P-Rev.1-IS-69026.pdf
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kvduff said:
Well I figured out the no start condition on my port 3126. After investigating and testing connections in the junction box and at the starter I couldn’t figure out the dog fence Then went and swapped the starters with no change in condition. Began focusing on the neutral safety switch. Figured it had to be located in the shifters nothing on the transmission. Once exposed I Found a broken contact there. Jumped the two wires from the port side switch and engine started. Now need to find a replacement switch, for the these late 90’s teleflex dual shifters.
Click to expand...

I'm looking for the thread where I rebuilt the shifters. Switches are cheap, but a PITA to find.

Thread --> http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/micro-switch-for-transmission-shift.90308/

Switch

https://www.digikey.com/en/products...-and-productivity-solutions/v7-1c27e9/1887771

Actuator

https://www.digikey.com/en/products.../418190?s=N4IgTCBcDaIMIAkBsB2AzAWgHIBEQF0BfIA
 
def teleflex, cables not electronic, not sure which model yet, but this looks like a replacement. Will remove in the morning hope to find a part number and the begin the search. Thanks for your assistance! Much appreciated. Can sort of see where tires connect in this image.
https://www.go2marine.com/Neutral-Safety-Switch-for-Teleflex-Morse-CH5600-Controls
https://www.digikey.com/en/products...-and-productivity-solutions/v7-1c27e9/1887771

dtfeld said:
I'm looking for the thread where I rebuilt the shifters. Switches are cheap, but a PITA to find.

Thread --> http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/micro-switch-for-transmission-shift.90308/

Switch

https://www.digikey.com/en/products...-and-productivity-solutions/v7-1c27e9/1887771

Actuator

https://www.digikey.com/en/products.../418190?s=N4IgTCBcDaIMIAkBsB2AzAWgHIBEQF0BfIA
Click to expand...
 
kvduff said:
def teleflex, cables not electronic, not sure which model yet, but this looks like a replacement. Will remove in the morning hope to find a part number and the begin the search. Thanks for your assistance! Much appreciated. https://www.go2marine.com/Neutral-Safety-Switch-for-Teleflex-Morse-CH5600-Controls
https://www.digikey.com/en/products...-and-productivity-solutions/v7-1c27e9/1887771
Click to expand...

Same switch, $5 vs $50. The old DC2 were discontinued, and the V7's are a direct replacement. Go ahead and order the actuators, as by now they likely have a flat spot worn on them.
 
kvduff said:
Those look similar, didn’t compare the specifics, but I did find the exact replacement that dt suggested at a local grainger for 7 bucks. Need to get the actuators also, but will inspect my current ones first.
Click to expand...

Close, but you need a SPST-NO. I am pretty sure Omron is a direct replacement. There are several who private label various components like this switch.

if you can’t get the actuators in time, no biggie, but they are a bitch to get to, so I’d prefer once and done. But then again a working engine might be better!
 
The Bill Collector said:
*
It's located in the transmission shifter...
Click to expand...

Just FYI, there may be a neutral safety switch on the transmission control block with the cable control version. The info above is specific to the electric shift that came on the roughly 1999/2000 and later models.

@The Bill Collector Mark, can you clarify?
 
dtfeld said:
Just FYI, there may be a neutral safety switch on the transmission control block with the cable control version. The info above is specific to the electric shift that came on the roughly 1999/2000 and later models.

@The Bill Collector Mark, can you clarify?
Click to expand...
*
Mine are mechanical and I replaced one several years ago, it was located in the shifter at the helm.
 
https://www.grainger.com/product/HONEYWELL-Miniature-Snap-Action-Switch-24A262
dtfeld said:
Just FYI, there may be a neutral safety switch on the transmission control block with the cable control version. The info above is specific to the electric shift that came on the roughly 1999/2000 and later models.

@The Bill Collector Mark, can you clarify?
Click to expand...
Nothing on my transmission, my teleflex are the ch5600p. There is no roller actuator. The pin on the safety switch is depressed by an arm inside of the shifter. The switch from grainger was 7 bucks and picked it up this morning, back running! Starboard side was definitely malfunctioning for a while bc when I shift now it’s def a lot smoother. Port side crumbled while removing! 25 years of shifting, got their moneys worth.
 

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Raw water spraying from coolant overflow reservoir and all coolant is gone

On my Cat 3116, when the engine is hot and under load (2400 rpms) there is raw water spraying out of the coolant reservoir under high pressure, and all of the coolant seems to be gone. The engine is not running hot. I discovered the issue because I saw my bilge light on the dash coming on when running.

Over the winter I had the full cooling system serviced (heat exchangers removed and tested, system flushed, coolant replaced, zincs replaced) and the heat exchangers tested good.

What are the most likely causes of this? Could the heat exchanger have failed (after being tested) or could the dealer have screwed something up in the reassembly after the service?

Any guidance as to what to look at first would be appreciated. I´m not going to repair myself but I want to know what a tech should be looking for.

I don't trust the dealer since the tech (who has admitted he "isn´t really a diesel guy") said he couldn´t reproduce the problem, when all you had to do was warm up the engines and run up the RPMs.
 
UnsaltedGL said:
Raw water spraying from coolant overflow reservoir and all coolant is gone

On my Cat 3116, when the engine is hot and under load (2400 rpms) there is raw water spraying out of the coolant reservoir under high pressure, and all of the coolant seems to be gone. The engine is not running hot. I discovered the issue because I saw my bilge light on the dash coming on when running.

Over the winter I had the full cooling system serviced (heat exchangers removed and tested, system flushed, coolant replaced, zincs replaced) and the heat exchangers tested good.

What are the most likely causes of this? Could the heat exchanger have failed (after being tested) or could the dealer have screwed something up in the reassembly after the service?

Any guidance as to what to look at first would be appreciated. I´m not going to repair myself but I want to know what a tech should be looking for.

I don't trust the dealer since the tech (who has admitted he "isn´t really a diesel guy") said he couldn´t reproduce the problem, when all you had to do was warm up the engines and run up the RPMs.
Click to expand...

Have you checked your water pump, AND belt?
 
Did the coolant get pushed out of the overflow bottle first? It’s bright red so I’d imagine you’d have noticed.

If yes, my vote would be the tech didn’t seal the heat exchanger properly so your raw water system is pushing past the orings and filling the block with water.
 
T
Strecker25 said:
Did the coolant get pushed out of the overflow bottle first? It’s bright red so I’d imagine you’d have noticed.

If yes, my vote would be the tech didn’t seal the heat exchanger properly so your raw water system is pushing past the orings and filling the block with water.
Click to expand...
This

Not knowing what the tech did during the service of your heat exchangers, it sounds like the raw water is mixing with the coolant. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think that's the only place where that could happen, the exchanger.
 
mrsrobinson said:
T

This

Not knowing what the tech did during the service of your heat exchangers, it sounds like the raw water is mixing with the coolant. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think that's the only place where that could happen, the exchanger.
Click to expand...

pretty much. Could have even swapped a hose somewhere, pumping water right into the cooling system
 
After my great learning curve with my debacle with my heat exchanger... It's entirely possible what was mentioned a few posts up, that the crucial o-ring that separates raw water and coolant was not sealed properly...
 
Strecker25 said:
Did the coolant get pushed out of the overflow bottle first? It’s bright red so I’d imagine you’d have noticed.

If yes, my vote would be the tech didn’t seal the heat exchanger properly so your raw water system is pushing past the orings and filling the block with water.
Click to expand...
I don't know whether it did, because the first time I noticed an issue was after I had run for an hour and my bilge pump light started coming on. When I stopped to examine, I could tell water had sprayed in the engine room but I couldn't find an active leak, because I was at idle, not at running speed.
 
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