Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

So we took it out to load test it. I found 3 coolant leaks in a section our now fired mechanic replaced the housing regulator that be busted the flange off of and the hoses should've been replaced. Got new hoses now.

Is there a bleeder valve somewhere on the coolant circuit?
I don't remember any. The expansion tank is the high point in the system. Fill it up then run it; let it cool and top it off at the expansion tank and add to the overflow bottle. I mark my overflow bottles both cold and hot so I always know what is going on with the system.
 
I don't remember any. The expansion tank is the high point in the system. Fill it up then run it; let it cool and top it off at the expansion tank and add to the overflow bottle. I mark my overflow bottles both cold and hot so I always know what is going on with the system.

Okay thanks, figured but wanted to double check.
 
I am close to an agreed price on this boat:
https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/2001-sea-ray-380-sundancer-8059883/

The boat was sea trialed and surveyed early November 2021, including engine surveys. The prospective buyer walked after the mechanic who did the survey shared the below and told them "how much" it would cost. Otherwise the boat surveryed ok, no major issues. There's been no documented service on the CATs and the shop is recommending the 1000 hour service before a new owner takes a long cruise. My gfs brother-in-laws (a certified CAT Mechanic) states these are very early 3126s, which are essentially the same as the 3116s. Good engine, but have the copper cups in the head for the injectors, which can be a pain. Also takes special tooling to synchronize the injector rack and injectors themselves.

I am fairly mechanical and have turned wrenches on my gas powered boats and my cars. I am new to diesels though, learning what I know now over the past couple of weeks from here, Google and talking to my gfs brother-in-law. I know I cannot do the aftercooler service and the valve adjustment so I would get CAT to do that. What about the other items, are they straightforward for a DIYer to do? Would any of these keep you from running the boat until they were fixed?
  • Belts and hoses look original, suggested replacement
  • Starboard engine fuel primer pump leaking fuel
  • Starboard engine expansion tank is bent and damaged
  • Starboard synchronizer drive is broken
  • Aftercoolers severely overdue on service
  • Exhaust bypass hoses need replacing along with generator siphon hoses
  • Props need to be tuned to allow for full RPMs
  • High Idle Rpm
    • Spec: 3100 +-50
    • Port: 3100
    • Starboard: 3110
  • Low Idle Rpm
    • Spec: 650 - 750
    • Port: 750
    • Starboard: 750
  • Full Load Rpm
    • Spec: 2800 min
    • Port: 2717
    • Starboard:2695
 
Everything but the valve adjustment is doable yourself, even the aftercoolers.

Remove them and take them to a radiator shop or call a diesel mechanic and ask where they take them to be cleaned and pressure tested.

Its as simple as unbolting them, buying new gaskets and a few small hoses that are only accessible when the coolers are removed and bolting them back up. Check torque specs.

The most expensive hoses on that list will be the exhaust bypass hoses. Everything from Cat is pretty inexpensive.

All of these fuel primers have leaked at some point. I keep a spare on board, they are $75.00.

I would personally plan on running the boat for a sea trial and then do all of the maintenance at once.

Would your GF’s brother in law be willing to give you a few pointers?
 
Would your GF’s brother in law be willing to give you a few pointers?
Yep, he's been giving me quite a few pointers. He said from the list the first thing he would replace is the fuel priming pump on the starboard engine. He said it's really easy to replace, two bolts and remove the old gasket. The fact it won't lock down makes it really easy to get air in the fuel.

It's about an 8-hour cruise to bring it home if I buy it. Do I need to get this work done before bringing it home? The boat's about 3 hours from my house.
 
Everything but the valve adjustment is doable yourself, even the aftercoolers.

Remove them and take them to a radiator shop or call a diesel mechanic and ask where they take them to be cleaned and pressure tested.

Its as simple as unbolting them, buying new gaskets and a few small hoses that are only accessible when the coolers are removed and bolting them back up. Check torque specs.

The most expensive hoses on that list will be the exhaust bypass hoses. Everything from Cat is pretty inexpensive.

All of these fuel primers have leaked at some point. I keep a spare on board, they are $75.00.

I would personally plan on running the boat for a sea trial and then do all of the maintenance at once.

Would your GF’s brother in law be willing to give you a few pointers?

What do you do if they don't test out for the pressure test. Inquiring minds want to know.
 
Yep, he's been giving me quite a few pointers. He said from the list the first thing he would replace is the fuel priming pump on the starboard engine. He said it's really easy to replace, two bolts and remove the old gasket. The fact it won't lock down makes it really easy to get air in the fuel.

It's about an 8-hour cruise to bring it home if I buy it. Do I need to get this work done before bringing it home? The boat's about 3 hours from my house.
There is a quarter turn valve that puts the primer in line. As long as that bypass valve is in the run position air will not get into the system from the primer pump.
 
380 w/ 3126s??!! Sweet boat! This looks like a pretty reasonable list…if the price is right. These were all things that were needed on my 2001 410 w/3126s. What I see on the list as big ticket items are the aftercoolers and the props.

Aftercooler are about 3k each if needed to be replaced (probably ok, CAT over engineers/build everything) and the props are $2k for both to be re-pitched. I’d get these nailed down first.

The rest of it is time effort and a little bit of money.

If your willing to turn a wrench to get this tuff up to speed, this might be a great boat. There are threads that detail all of this on here.

add up what you think needs work, then triple it!
 
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One other thing…

Resetting the head is done at 250 hours and at 2000 hrs. There is no 1000 hour service on these engines.

if there isn’t a history of this service, then you may want to have this service completed. Call you local CAT dealer and get a quote. It’s one of the few things better left t9 the CAT dealership.

Add that to the list…
 
Thanks everyone, the seller still wants full price for the boat in its current condition needing the recommended service from the engine surveys. Seller is of the opinion the new V drive, a new fuel tank, the newer isinglass and cockpit upholstery make the boat more valuable regardless of the lack of a documented engine service history. It's a first time boat owner who's owned the boat for 3 years.
 
Submit your firm and final and if he doesn't accept or counter, move along. Just my $0.02.
 
Alright everyone, what else do you have? Please read full list before suggestion! Over 1700 rpm and we heat up above 200 on only starboard.

We did a full descale including the gear cooler.
New impeller.
Coolant flush.
New ELC coolant.
Cleaned the HEX
Aftercooler is cool to the touch while the engine gauge reads 195 degrees.
Any other DIY ideas? My next step is calling in CAT but we aren't well off youngsters.
 
Alright everyone, what else do you have? Please read full list before suggestion! Over 1700 rpm and we heat up above 200 on only starboard.

We did a full descale including the gear cooler.
New impeller.
Coolant flush.
New ELC coolant.
Cleaned the HEX
Aftercooler is cool to the touch while the engine gauge reads 195 degrees.
Any other DIY ideas? My next step is calling in CAT but we aren't well off youngsters.
Thermostat? Installed correctly?
Water Pump drive belt?
Did you verify full raw water flow from the gear cooler? Start engine with that hose disconnected from the exhaust mixer and put it into a bucket?
Worst case and it has happened is the cooling pump impeller spinning on shaft. I believe they are interference fit to the shaft.
 
Alright everyone, what else do you have? Please read full list before suggestion! Over 1700 rpm and we heat up above 200 on only starboard.

We did a full descale including the gear cooler.
New impeller.
Coolant flush.
New ELC coolant.
Cleaned the HEX
Aftercooler is cool to the touch while the engine gauge reads 195 degrees.
Any other DIY ideas? My next step is calling in CAT but we aren't well off youngsters.

Test for combustion gases in the engine cooling system.
https://www.amazon.com/Block-Tester...t=&hvlocphy=9007455&hvtargid=pla-570352767565

https://www.blocktester.com/?s=diesel
 
Agreed, we are close but I will probably move on.
Is deferred maintenance a negotiating position? Generally, I think it is a stretch unless the deferral has caused damage requiring repair. Regarding the injector cups - It is a normal thing to cut them and I think not a means to negotiate a lower price. As a vessel owner I wouldn't.
 
Thermostat? Installed correctly?
Water Pump drive belt?
Did you verify full raw water flow from the gear cooler? Start engine with that hose disconnected from the exhaust mixer and put it into a bucket?
Worst case and it has happened is the cooling pump impeller spinning on shaft. I believe they are interference fit to the shaft.

I guess I'll pull it and make sure the mechanic did it correctly.
Coolant pump drive belt is new.
We have pretty solid water flow, it's not as much as Port side, but it's certainly not low.

I'll check the cooling pump impeller and recheck give thermostat. I think I want to get a 185 degree thermostat back in there anyway.
 
I guess I'll pull it and make sure the mechanic did it correctly.
Coolant pump drive belt is new.
We have pretty solid water flow, it's not as much as Port side, but it's certainly not low.

I'll check the cooling pump impeller and recheck give thermostat. I think I want to get a 185 degree thermostat back in there anyway.
My mechanic told me a story where they just couldn't find why an engine was overheating but only when it was up to temperature and loaded. They looked and looked for over a month and couldn't determine the issue. They even pulled the water pump thinking the impeller blades had broken off but it looked normal and rotated normally. After looking and testing for a long time they decided to change the coolant pump even though it looked and seemed to work normal. Presto the problem was fixed....?? Well as it ends up the pump worked just fine when it was cold but when heated up the impeller spun on the shaft.
Another thing to look closely at is for rust/corrosion on the pump and crank pulley grooves; the belt will slip in those grooves if they are corroded and pitted.
How much ELC did you get into the engine?
@techmitch makes an excellent point so do that test. Typically if there is enough gas getting into the cooling system to prevent temperature control, the coolant usually gets blown out of the engine...
 

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