Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

Engine diagnostic tests are seldom worth anything unless there is a reason to perform them. Air in the return system is one of t hem. If the engine is running normally with no missing what to you expect to gain or what do you expect to learn with the air in the return line test except that the engine is running normally……..which you already know.
 
Steve S said:
I believe they originally used a lower temp thermostat but now recommend (offer) the 190's. That may be why they are reading 180.
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Cat cannot meet some EPA limit with the 6 cylinder 3100 series engine running at 180˚ so to try to appease the EPA, they increased the thermostat's set point to 190˚. My engines do seem to produce marginally less transom soot with the 190˚ thermostats, but the difference is so small that I never found transom sooting a problem with the original 180˚ thermostats anyway.
 
fwebster said:
Cat cannot meet some EPA limit with the 6 cylinder 3100 series engine running at 180˚ so to try to appease the EPA, they increased the thermostat's set point to 190˚. My engines do seem to produce marginally less transom soot with the 190˚ thermostats, but the difference is so small that I never found transom sooting a problem with the original 180˚ thermostats anyway.
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Just a tangent question on this, what temp triggers a warning alarm , I assume it’s more than 190
 
On my boat it triggered the systems monitor at a shade over 200˚. But, the dash gauges are less than infallible and determining the engine temperature required a bit of estimation/guessing. The engine mounted gauges were a little easier to read and tened to confirm the 200˚ mark.

I have been on boats with newer systems monitors that alarmed at 210˚. Too hot for me on Diesel engines……..I'm pulling the throttles back well before 210˚ and on my older 450DA, if I hear the systems monitor cheap, I pull back the throttles.
 
Tried over the weekend to set up a descaling flush on the port engine. Using 2' barbed fittings I attached just after the raw water pump and again at the inlet to the exhaust. Had about 7 gallons of water in the bucket using a cheap 1100 gpm bilge pump. I had good flow at first coming from the outlet side but after about 2 minutes I was dry in the bucket. I couldn't see any leaks outside of a small drip at one of my connection points.Am I missing something? Will I loose solution down through the dripless line, or somewhere else I need to close off? Seacock was closed and had all the zinc caps back in. I was stumped and really hot by that point so I walked away. Thanks.
 
Boca_Vincent said:
Tried over the weekend to set up a descaling flush on the port engine. Using 2' barbed fittings I attached just after the raw water pump and again at the inlet to the exhaust. Had about 7 gallons of water in the bucket using a cheap 1100 gpm bilge pump. I had good flow at first coming from the outlet side but after about 2 minutes I was dry in the bucket. I couldn't see any leaks outside of a small drip at one of my connection points.Am I missing something? Will I loose solution down through the dripless line, or somewhere else I need to close off? Seacock was closed and had all the zinc caps back in. I was stumped and really hot by that point so I walked away. Thanks.
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Yes, out the dripless seals. Pinch the hose off with a vise grip or clamp
 
Boca_Vincent said:
Tried over the weekend to set up a descaling flush on the port engine. Using 2' barbed fittings I attached just after the raw water pump and again at the inlet to the exhaust. Had about 7 gallons of water in the bucket using a cheap 1100 gpm bilge pump. I had good flow at first coming from the outlet side but after about 2 minutes I was dry in the bucket. I couldn't see any leaks outside of a small drip at one of my connection points.Am I missing something? Will I loose solution down through the dripless line, or somewhere else I need to close off? Seacock was closed and had all the zinc caps back in. I was stumped and really hot by that point so I walked away. Thanks.
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Yes, I was told to close off the dripless line. Can you post everything you bought here, something I want to do as well.
 
Thanks guys, kinda thought that may have been it, but figured best to ask the brain trust.
Mrs R - I just went into Ace hardware and got (2) 2 inch pvc barbed to MPT fittings. From there you can downsize to whatever hose size you want to use. I had a length of bilge hose that I used for the pump side attached with a hose clamp. For the outlet side, I downsized to a standard garden hose barb since i had some old sections of that to cut up. Here's the pump I bought on Amazon - just added a couple of alligator clips. Since I am already sitting in the ER next to the batteries that seemed like a simple choice to power it up. It was flowing nicely... until it went dry.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PGDKB5Y?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
 
Does anyone have a link to a 3116 Parts diagram? I tried using my.cat.com and other sources on the Cat website, and I can't find a standard parts diagram to locate the parts I'm looking for.

A search by name doesn't work well if you don't know exactly what the part is called.
 
yobub said:
Does anyone have a link to a 3116 Parts diagram? I tried using my.cat.com and other sources on the Cat website, and I can't find a standard parts diagram to locate the parts I'm looking for.

A search by name doesn't work well if you don't know exactly what the part is called.
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The SIS system is a fine art. Which part and what’s your engine SN?
 
Strecker25 said:
The SIS system is a fine art. Which part and what’s your engine SN?
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Thanks @Strecker25 At the moment I'm trying to find the housing that the coolant temperature sensors sit in, but I'd like to find some source to know what part I'm trying to find. S/n is 4KG07441. Does everybody just call Cat every time you need to find a part?
 
yobub said:
Does everybody just call Cat every time you need to find a part?
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Yes and No. I have an account set up online so I'll check online first.
My local cat dealer is heavy equipment and rarely understands my marine applications.
 
yobub said:
@Strecker25 I hadn't found the SIS system, and that probably gives me the diagrams I was looking for. I was trying to search on my.cat.com and wasn't getting anywhere. Thanks.
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its much better than it used to be but still a pain at times. Sounds like you found the diagram but this is probably the one you want?
 

Attachments

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What are you using to touch up the paint on a bolt head when it chips off from taking one out, for example the bolts for the raw water impeller plate?
 
I found that rattle can paint doesn't hold up on boat engines. I got a paint supplier to color match Cat Matterhorn White in an acrylic enamel, then used a Preval spray bottle with the correct reducer and an enamel hardener. The acrylic enamel will not get dull over time and is a very hard paint that is easy to apply.

The match for Cat Matternhorn white is Nissan Paris White - paint code KH5
 
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