- Aug 20, 2021
- 1,314
- Boat Info
- Started out as MAYBE A DANCER
Became a Dancer - 12/23/21
- Engines
- 450 DA Sundancer running CAT 3126
Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread
- Thread starter carterchapman
- Start date
douglee25
Well-Known Member
Drill pump works well too.
Attempting to remove the prop shafts from the 3116 with ZF 85 transmissions on a 380DA. Has a six bolt pattern.
Does anyone know where I can find a puller that will fit this application?
Had a few of them in the garage, but either too small, the extraction bolt was too long or suited to 4 bolt pattern.
Does anyone know where I can find a puller that will fit this application?
Had a few of them in the garage, but either too small, the extraction bolt was too long or suited to 4 bolt pattern.
I used this, works great if you have room to swing a mallet. We’re a 410DA with 3126 and zf80’s. You’ll need to get the bolts from a hardware store
https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com...ibDqLhWYZpPnu3CRGnrU0VGhAvRE8lfxoCZZkQAvD_BwE
Unfortunately that's a 4 bolt pattern. Have one of them already. But thanks for the suggestion.
i know, I used the 4 bolt on our 6 and it worked fine. I got just enough pressure on with it for the harmonics to break it loose. It might be worth a try
- Jun 5, 2016
- 5,614
- Boat Info
- 410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
- Engines
- Cat 3126 V-Drives
I used a harbor freight 6” gear puller and propane torch to get mine to pop off. I bought a 6”, 8” and a hydraulic version, the 6” was the only one I had enough (barely) room to use it. It’s very tight
I had the prop off, and could slide the shaft into the boat slightly to get the hooks behind the coupler, once the coupler bolts were removed.
I put as much force on the gear puller as I could, then heated the hub up slightly. It didn’t take much heat, but it popped right off.
I had the prop off, and could slide the shaft into the boat slightly to get the hooks behind the coupler, once the coupler bolts were removed.
I put as much force on the gear puller as I could, then heated the hub up slightly. It didn’t take much heat, but it popped right off.
Got the port side off this morning. Took the puller that @Strecker25 referenced and drilled two holes in it, to obtain three holes 120 degrees apart. That puller was compact enough that I now had room to get my monster adjustable wrench in there. Heat was going to be the next step.
Now working on the starboard side. The end nut won't come off. Had to go get a 1 13/16" socket, a 25" breaker bar and mini butane torch. Will use tomorrow. There were enough shaft threads exposed that I could tell the threads are the same direction as the port side (righty tighty).
Now working on the starboard side. The end nut won't come off. Had to go get a 1 13/16" socket, a 25" breaker bar and mini butane torch. Will use tomorrow. There were enough shaft threads exposed that I could tell the threads are the same direction as the port side (righty tighty).
nice! That job sucks. I may pull mine every few years while it’s on the hard just to keep things from completely fusing together
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
I'm coming in late to the coolant party, what does everybody do with their old coolant, where do you take it to be recycled or disposed, and how, what do you carry it in so it doesn't spill?
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
Yep, I removed the wire nut on the end, and then the nut behind the fat round cap, not sure what it's called, came right off. Had to use a stubby open ended wrench though, not a lot of room there. I had to use a special socket that my dockmate had, he has the same engines, to remove the other sensor, but only on the port engine. The starboard sensor was mounted at an angle on the starboard engine so I didn't have to remove it.
The bolt didn't quite back out the impeller on the starboard side, I could have used a spacer as well. I used a pair a channel locks to get ot the rest of the way out, it was really wedged in there.
Tell me about it.
That thought comes to mind. It's one of the reasons why I want my own properly sized puller and the right tools figured out, so it can be done with the least amount of hassle.
Going to replace the engine mounts while the shaft is out as well.
Have a couple of old large gas jerry cans that I use. The marina here has an oil and coolant recapture tank.
- Aug 20, 2021
- 1,314
- Boat Info
- Started out as MAYBE A DANCER
Became a Dancer - 12/23/21
- Engines
- 450 DA Sundancer running CAT 3126
i always re-use the containers that contained the new liquid, oil, coolant, etc.
The trick is to have enough spare capacity to drain out before filling up.
BEST !
RWS
The trick is to have enough spare capacity to drain out before filling up.
BEST !
RWS
- Jun 2, 2008
- 5,024
- Boat Info
- 1998 450 Sundancer, Achilles dinghy w/15hp
- Engines
- 3126 Cat's
Years ago I bought two 6 gallon gas jugs as each engine holds 6 gallons of oil...
Riptide III
3D
- Dec 8, 2007
- 1,139
- Boat Info
- 1997 Sea Ray 400DA
Cat 3116 TA
1994 Sea Ray Laguna CC 250 Tohatsu
- Engines
- :
I need some advice on aligning my engines. I am finishing up replacing the clutches in the transmissions. While they were out I decided to replace a few mounts. Hence alignment. I have no issue tearing into a tranny but am apprehensive of alignment. I understand the basics of a feeler gauge.
It's not that bad. First get things close. Then get the shaft centered in the shaft log; use the mounts at the coupler for that. If things were close you should not have to touch the mounts at the coupler again. Then align the coupler faces by moving engine on the mounts furthest from the coupler up, down, left, right. That is really it.
A couple of things -
The engine should be close to the same height from the top of the mounts left to right.
Coupling faces must be clean and rust free.
Mount a dial indicator and verify the gear coupler is flat; TIR should be less than 0.001" outside of the bolt circle.
Face to Face any gap between the coupler halves needs to be less than 0.006" but I strive for half that. You can hold the coupler halves temporarily together with a pair of vice grips lightly clamped. Verify that coupler gap measurement both by rotating one half in 90 degree increments and by rotating the entire assembly in 90 degree increments.
Finally, after all that is done and the coupler bolts are installed and torqued, put the dial indicator on the shaft at the shaft log and run out the shaft; it should have a TIR of less that 0.006".
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
I had a mechanic on the boat today who was going to start diagnosing the engines running hot. He started a closed loop barnacle buster flush on the port engine when a dock hand asked him if he had insurance. He does not so he was told to leave immediately, which he did, literally. Leaving the barnacle buster in the raw water system.
Do I need to get it out ASAP or can it sit? My assumption is I have to get it out.
Do I need to get it out ASAP or can it sit? My assumption is I have to get it out.
I’d get it out if you could. I wouldn’t want it sitting in the aftercooler.
is it just a bucket? Fill the bucket with fresh water and circulate then dump a couple of times to flush it all out
he took his stuff just hook the plumbing back up and start the engine
yeah it’ll push it out as long as the plumbing is hooked back up. Let it soak for a couple hours if you haven’t already, might as well let it do it’s job a bit since it’s in there.
Did he pull your Zincs? You might have to put those back in. BB says it doesn’t eat zincs but I’ve heard otherwise, never used it myself