Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

The most amazing part for me was when we closed the hatch and continued the sea trial. The hatch and sound deadening does an amazing job of quieting them down. We can have a normal conversation at the helm while at cruise
 
The most amazing part for me was when we closed the hatch and continued the sea trial. The hatch and sound deadening does an amazing job of quieting them down. We can have a normal conversation at the helm while at cruise
Well yes and no, I still thought it was loud even with the engine hatch closed, money compared to the 7.4's and 8.1s. I'm curious to know if anyone's added sounds relation or anything else to reduce the sound.
 
Well yes and no, I still thought it was loud even with the engine hatch closed, money compared to the 7.4's and 8.1s. I'm curious to know if anyone's added sounds relation or anything else to reduce the sound.

Interesting , I can’t imagine the 410 and 380 are much different in the sound arena

What was your canvas setup? Makes a huge difference for us. If I have the rear curtain and sides down and the front vent cracked for airflow the sound drops significantly.

Like here:
E190EDEF-5664-402C-BF39-F9DB78B28F28.jpeg
 
Interesting , I can’t imagine the 410 and 380 are much different in the sound arena

What was your canvas setup? Makes a huge difference for us. If I have the rear curtain and sides down and the front vent cracked for airflow the sound drops significantly.

Like here:
View attachment 121884
Good points, during the survey the full canvas enclosure was on.
 
Good points, during the survey the full canvas enclosure was on.

opening her up will quiet them down. The other thing a lot of us do is run near the 2150-2200 range when not in a hurry. At that rpm you’re building less boost so turbo noise is minimized.

if all else fails, turn up the stereo
 
the Stereo kills the sweet machinery sounds.

When I did the refit to my 10 meter, after yanking the 454 Crusaders i added a layer of SOUNDDOWN over top of the factory sound deadening material.

RESULT:

The Yanmar Diesels are FAR QUIETER than the 454 Crusaders.

One could always add more SOUNDDOWN, but it is HEAVY and COSTLY.

Suggest you check the big, fat gasket at the engine room hatch.

On my 450 it was hanging loose

Some WEATHERSTRIP adhesive took care of that

BEST !

RWS
 
Beautiful boat and sounds SWEET!

I took a very similar video the day I sea trialed. Almost identical. Still love to go back and watch and enjoyed watching yours just as much.

2800+ RPMs that’s a good sign somebody cared for her enough to take care of that detail.
I think I've watched the videos 20 times since taking them.
 
I am taking delivery of a 2000 410 Sundancer with Cat 3126's in April. It has 790 hours total. It is my first diesel boat and I am reading and educating myself as much as possible. It has been well maintained and the aftercoolers serviced 2 years ago. I am reading that the 3116's had fresh water cooled aftercoolers but in the 3126 they are sea water cooled. Why would CAT change to a less desirable design from a maintenance/longevity standpoint? Can a sea water cooled 3226 be converted to fresh water cooling? Thank you
Scott
 
I am taking delivery of a 2000 410 Sundancer with Cat 3126's in April. It has 790 hours total. It is my first diesel boat and I am reading and educating myself as much as possible. It has been well maintained and the aftercoolers serviced 2 years ago. I am reading that the 3116's had fresh water cooled aftercoolers but in the 3126 they are sea water cooled. Why would CAT change to a less desirable design from a maintenance/longevity standpoint? Can a sea water cooled 3226 be converted to fresh water cooling? Thank you
Scott

i wouldn’t mess with the engineering on a CAT cooling system.

I suspect the raw water cooling allows them to cool the charge air more effectively which becomes critical at the higher HP variants (they pushed them all the way to 420HP)

Does the service say they were pressure tested while off? If so, you have nothing to worry about. Keep on the zincs and service them periodically per cat recommendations

you’ll love the 410, we sure do. Are they 350hp or 385?
 
I am taking delivery of a 2000 410 Sundancer with Cat 3126's in April. It has 790 hours total. It is my first diesel boat and I am reading and educating myself as much as possible. It has been well maintained and the aftercoolers serviced 2 years ago. I am reading that the 3116's had fresh water cooled aftercoolers but in the 3126 they are sea water cooled. Why would CAT change to a less desirable design from a maintenance/longevity standpoint? Can a sea water cooled 3226 be converted to fresh water cooling? Thank you
Scott

3116 are coolant cooled, the 3126’s raw water cooled. Both have their pros and cons, both great engines.

Nothing wrong with the 3126 aftercoolers, built like tanks. I’ve never heard of a failed aftercooler on a 3126 leaking. Possible? Sure. The trick to these are keeping good anodes in it, and cleaning and testing on a regular basis.

I use 2 sets of stainless steel caps, and when I pull the old, I thrown them in a cup of rydlyme. It eats away the left over anode leaving perfectly clean threads ready for new anodes.

I use Presicion Metals for aluminum anodes and a little blue loctite prevents lost anodes.

In salt, you likely need to change every 6 months or so.
 
i wouldn’t mess with the engineering on a CAT cooling system.

I suspect the raw water cooling allows them to cool the charge air more effectively which becomes critical at the higher HP variants (they pushed them all the way to 420HP)

Does the service say they were pressure tested while off? If so, you have nothing to worry about. Keep on the zincs and service them periodically per cat recommendations

you’ll love the 410, we sure do. Are they 350hp or 385?

Mine are 350 hp
 
3116 are coolant cooled, the 3126’s raw water cooled. Both have their pros and cons, both great engines.

Nothing wrong with the 3126 aftercoolers, built like tanks. I’ve never heard of a failed aftercooler on a 3126 leaking. Possible? Sure. The trick to these are keeping good anodes in it, and cleaning and testing on a regular basis.

I use 2 sets of stainless steel caps, and when I pull the old, I thrown them in a cup of rydlyme. It eats away the left over anode leaving perfectly clean threads ready for new anodes.

I use Presicion Metals for aluminum anodes and a little blue loctite prevents lost anodes.

In salt, you likely need to change every 6 months or so.
Thank you. I appreciate the info. I will look up Precision Metals Anodes. I was using aluminum anodes on my prior boat with good results.
Scott
 
Someone posted on Facebook the other day that one of the transmission coolers leaked and sucked all the transmission fluid out, destroying the transmission. It got me thinking that we should really remove ours and have them tested just like I did the aftercoolers. Have you guys done this? We are freshwater and the boat has never seen salt but at over 20 years old it’s probably time to consider it and possibly even replace

mr cool has brand new replacements for 375/ea
 
In my own case all my "stuff" is 25 years old with an unknown service history

450 hours in salt water

Going to replace impellers, ALL hoses, thermostats, service all coolers and replace trans coolers with new, factory CAT units

I consider all of this cheap insurance/maintenance

when complete, I'll then be at ZERO hours/years for regular maintenance, and can then get back on the correct Maintenace schedule.

I'd much rather fix it before it breaks, after all, all this stuff is 25 years old, plus MARINE AGE

BEST !

RWS
 
Someone posted on Facebook the other day that one of the transmission coolers leaked and sucked all the transmission fluid out, destroying the transmission. It got me thinking that we should really remove ours and have them tested just like I did the aftercoolers. Have you guys done this? We are freshwater and the boat has never seen salt but at over 20 years old it’s probably time to consider it and possibly even replace

mr cool has brand new replacements for 375/ea
Allegedly this happened to the boat I am under contract on, and they had to replace the transmission. I say allegedly as the seller is mechanically clueless, the broker is as well. The shop said it was a failed trans cooler due to lack of service/maintenance, but of course the seller/broker disagree.
 
Allegedly this happened to the boat I am under contract on, and they had to replace the transmission. I say allegedly as the seller is mechanically clueless, the broker is as well. The shop said it was a failed trans cooler due to lack of service/maintenance, but of course the seller/broker disagree.

yeah, I don’t even think you’d know about it until the plates are fused or the trans locks up. A pressure alarm might catch it but even that might be too late
 
Has anyone replaced a trans cooler themselves? If yes it is a straight forward DIY job (remember Ii am new to these 3126 CATs)? I am asking so I can make a decision to have it done before I bring the boat home, while I have access to a many marine diesel/CAT mechanics, or do it myself when I get the boat home, where there are few marine CAT mechanics.

Thanks
 

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