Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

Completed my first trans fluid and filter change today. Didn’t run the boat yet but all seems good, shifts fine in the slip. I did the atf trick over the filter cover to see if there was any suction and it looks to be well sealed

the filter cover didn’t compress as much as the other side (the other side has the cover sitting slightly below the transmission case, maybe 2mm or so, but it might just be a new oring being a little fatter.

best I can tell the fluid might have never been changed. It doesn’t smell burnt and the color was an off-red with hints of brown. A little metal dust but no pieces or noticeable metal. The paint was still perfectly attached on both the drain plug and filter cap

update: sea trial was fine. I’ll do the other transmission tomorrow
 
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Strecker25 said:
Completed my first trans fluid and filter change today. Didn’t run the boat yet but all seems good, shifts fine in the slip. I did the atf trick over the filter cover to see if there was any suction and it looks to be well sealed

the filter cover didn’t compress as much as the other side (the other side has the cover sitting slightly below the transmission case, maybe 2mm or so, but it might just be a new oring being a little fatter.

best I can tell the fluid might have never been changed. It doesn’t smell burnt and the color was an off-red with hints of brown. A little metal dust but no pieces or noticeable metal. The paint was still perfectly attached on both the drain plug and filter cap
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What brand are your transmissions ?
 
Strecker25 said:
HSW800-V2 (ZF80-IV)

I used mobil1 Delvac1 ATF. Took exactly the 1.85G as stated in the manual so it seems I was able to extract all of it. Used new filters too
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I have Twin Disc & it's 6 qts of conventional 30w...
 
If you not in a hurry...add EZ Oil locking drain plugs, a short length of hose and a garden hose fitting w/cap so that future changes are quick, easy and never spill a drop.

I have a small pump on a 5 gal bucket and can do the fluid change on both sides in sides in an hour.
 
dtfeld said:
If you not in a hurry...add EZ Oil locking drain plugs, a short length of hose and a garden hose fitting w/cap so that future changes are quick, easy and never spill a drop.

I have a small pump on a 5 gal bucket and can do the fluid change on both sides in sides in an hour.
Click to expand...

Purchased and will be installed this fall with the oil change !!! https://ezoildrainvalve.com/index.html
 
dtfeld said:
If you not in a hurry...add EZ Oil locking drain plugs, a short length of hose and a garden hose fitting w/cap so that future changes are quick, easy and never spill a drop.

I have a small pump on a 5 gal bucket and can do the fluid change on both sides in sides in an hour.
Click to expand...

Took your advice a year ago to buy them and finally got em installed. Very much looking forward to the next time being quicker. I also ordered the safety clips because I’m paranoid.

image.jpg
 
Great upgrade!!
 
dtfeld said:
Great upgrade!!
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speakinf or transmissions - you added pressure sensors right? I was thinking I’d like that and possibly temperature on the nmea network next year. As far as I know the transmissions don’t have any alarms?
 
Strecker25 said:
speakinf or transmissions - you added pressure sensors right? I was thinking I’d like that and possibly temperature on the nmea network next year. As far as I know the transmissions don’t have any alarms?
Click to expand...
Correct...I added pressure and temp sensors. I think you could add them to the SeaRay Monitor...I think it’s present, but not wired...never tried it though.
 
Does anyone have a basic fuel flow diagram? While waiting for the transmission fluid to drain I was just checking fuel lines and the routing confuses me. It seems like the fuel goes tank->racor->secondary filter->into the head->fuel cooler->return.

is the idea to cool the fuel since it passed through the head prior to returning to the tank or do I have it wrong?
 
Strecker25 said:
Does anyone have a basic fuel flow diagram? While waiting for the transmission fluid to drain I was just checking fuel lines and the routing confuses me. It seems like the fuel goes tank->racor->secondary filter->into the head->fuel cooler->return.

is the idea to cool the fuel since it passed through the head prior to returning to the tank or do I have it wrong?
Click to expand...
You've got it right; the fuel cooler is the last stop before back to the tank. The fuel is a coolant also in diesel engines. On my engines the ECM is cooled with fuel.
 
The cooler in marine is located between 8 and 10. 9 is Racor and 5 is 2 micron final filter.
cat+3116+002.jpg
 
ttmott said:
The cooler in marine is located between 8 and 10. 9 is Racor and 5 is 2 micron final filter.
cat+3116+002.jpg
Click to expand...

interesting, thanks! These engines are so simple when you dig into them but there are also so many clever bits of engineering working together
 
The boat has been running well with the exception of higher than normal temps. Today I opened her up to check full throttle RPMS. I usually do it at the beginning of the season but this year I didn’t. 25kts 2660 rpms both sides. Usually it’s 2800rpms. Clean bottom(just pulled last week). Aetna tachometers (installed a few years ago). No smoke. Airseps cleaned 20 hours ago.
This is the fifth season(about 475 hours) since cleaning aftercoolers. Could that have an affect on rpms or cooling. I have 3116 so afercooler is not raw water cooled.
 
Riptide III said:
The boat has been running well with the exception of higher than normal temps. Today I opened her up to check full throttle RPMS. I usually do it at the beginning of the season but this year I didn’t. 25kts 2660 rpms both sides. Usually it’s 2800rpms. Clean bottom(just pulled last week). Aetna tachometers (installed a few years ago). No smoke. Airseps cleaned 20 hours ago.
This is the fifth season(about 475 hours) since cleaning aftercoolers. Could that have an affect on rpms or cooling. I have 3116 so afercooler is not raw water cooled.
Click to expand...

soiled aftercooler could lower boost subsequently lowering WOT, but I’d think it would have to be a pretty serious case to drop 100+ rpm.

do you have boost gauges?
 
Riptide III said:
The boat has been running well with the exception of higher than normal temps. Today I opened her up to check full throttle RPMS. I usually do it at the beginning of the season but this year I didn’t. 25kts 2660 rpms both sides. Usually it’s 2800rpms. Clean bottom(just pulled last week). Aetna tachometers (installed a few years ago). No smoke. Airseps cleaned 20 hours ago.
This is the fifth season(about 475 hours) since cleaning aftercoolers. Could that have an affect on rpms or cooling. I have 3116 so afercooler is not raw water cooled.
Click to expand...
 
I've got the same issue going on. I was 2725 at sea trial, 2685 last year and now 2600. I confirmed my aetnas are +/-2 Rpm across the rpm range vs photo tach. Thinking it could be load, and need to repitch props. Bottom clean. Boost and EGT looks to be right on spec at 2300/2400 RPM. 20-21 psi and 760-800*F depending on trim.

I added fuel restriction gage to the racors and about to do full filter change. No restriction of note.

I tweaked the throttle linkages to ensure they hit the stops (they do now).

I need to make sure no air entering fuel lines.
 
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