Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

mrsrobinson said:
What "diesel" oil do you guys use in your genny? I was going to go with Rotella T1 30W.
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Westerbeke calls for 15w-40, which is convenient if we're all switching back to multi-vis.

ENGINE OIL Use an engine oil regular or synthetic with an API classification of CF and/or CG-4. An oil viscosity rating of 15W-40 is recommended for all operating conditions. Change the engine lube oil and filter after the initial 50 hours of break-in operation and every 100 hours or less of operations there after.

https://www.westerbeke.com/operator's manual/40457_rev2_7.6btd_operator_man.pdf
 
I saw that in the manual as well, but also 30: API Specification CF or CG-4, SAE 30, 10W-30, 15W-40

And yes, since I have to purchase 3 5 gallon of the main engine oil, and need 1 gallon for the genny, 15 total of the 15W-40 should do all 3, with a 1/2 quart left.
 
Boom!

PXL_20221014_174922416.jpg
 
Just got 12 gallons of T4 15W-40 from Walmart. Ordered for pick-up, was ready in 1 hour. Drove up and had it in my vehicle 5 minutes later.

-Steve
 
mrsrobinson said:
My Westerbeke diesel genny has a spin on mounted to the engine and 1 Racor. When I removed the spin on black crud fell out, I don't think it was ever changed before me.

Be careful when you pull your zincs out, they will most likely break off anyway, almost all of mine did despite how carefully I removed them.

And get some 5 gallon buckets, with lids. for your oil change.
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Suggestions:

Black crud in the fuel filter……..change the mount to a vertical remote mount filter so the crud stays in the bottom of the filter, then change them every 100 hours or annually. (Fram, Jeggs, Summit all sell several remote mount kits so all you'd need to add is 2 hydraulic hoses custom made with the correct threaded ends on them)

Broken zincs……..forget the recommended anode change interval, and change the Westerbeke anode every 30 days…….a lot less trouble and much faster than disassembling the Westerbeke heat exchanger to fish out the broken anode.

5 gal buckets with lids…….. Really? stop buying your oil at Walmart and buy it from a distributor (Keller Heartt, TSC, or another retail outlet that can get your preferred oil in5 gal pails you have an oil change pump and 5 gal pails come with lids.
 
fwebster said:
5 gal buckets with lids…….. Really? stop buying your oil at Walmart and buy it from a distributor (Keller Heartt, TSC, or another retail outlet that can get your preferred oil in5 gal pails you have an oil change pump and 5 gal pails come with lids.
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Agreed, and I thought about this while at Tractor Supply. However, unless I am missing something, I need the first 3 5 gallon oil pails/lids to get started, and until they are empty, from the first oil change, I need 3 more to carry the old oil in. Yes, after that I will have 3 5 gallon pails/lids for future changes, to put the old oil in. And unfortunately 3 5 gallon buckets with old oil residue in them that are worthless for anything else.


fwebster said:
Black crud in the fuel filter……..change the mount to a vertical remote mount filter so the crud stays in the bottom of the filter, then change them every 100 hours or annually. (Fram, Jeggs, Summit all sell several remote mount kits so all you'd need to add is 2 hydraulic hoses custom made with the correct threaded ends on them)
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This is the fuel filter with the crud I was referring to, are you referring to the same one:

Screenshot 2022-10-14 160431.png
 
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That looks like a typical Onan fuel filter that takes a drop in cartridge element, not a spin on filter aas you mentioned in your post. I cannot help you with trapped black crud in the filter except to recommend changing them at least every 100 hours or annually……..and to follow the recommendations in the Diesel System Management article re: additives.

As far as keeping buckets around with oil residue in them………I got no magic for you on that one. We have a printing company in Tennessee and they throw away 4-5 5 gal ink containers every day and they love it if you take as many out of their dumpster as you want. They have a 2-1/2" screw on lid and have handles at the top and side so they are a lot easier to handle than the oil buckets, and the buckets are molded so they will nest when stacked which makes a stack of 4 about 6 ft tall. The ink residue is usually black so it doesn't much matter if I leave an oz or 2 of old diesel oil in them. Try any restaurant that fries food….they will have some used buckes in their trash since they all have a waste oil recycler pick up their used cooking oil.
 
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I bought 2 six gallon fuel containers just for oil changes on the boat as each engine holds 6 gallons.
 
gmaki said:
Very strange. My Walmart order has all been delivered. Over the course of 3 days an in 4 separate shipments.
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That's how they sometimes do it with my oil orders as well. I ordered from them last week, everything came same day.
 
Yeah, I had car oil/filters in the order as well. Everything except 1 oil filter and 1 quart of oil, they already delivered, was cancelled.

I don't understand why Walmart delivers an order in piece meal; oil w/out a filter adds no value, 1 quart without the remaining gallon of oil does not help me, etc.
 
I removed the after cooler cover plates to bring home, clean and paint. The bolts were incredibility tight. Was this is ok to do? I assumed they are cover plates only and have no other function.
 
mrsrobinson said:
I removed the after cooler cover plates to bring home, clean and paint. The bolts were incredibility tight. Was this is ok to do? I assumed they are cover plates only and have no other function.
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its fine. Probably just corroded/rusted in place. Those threaded posts are just welded to the top of the AC
 
Mine were not that tight. As they don't hold anything critical and heavy I don't see a need to over torque them. Were they painted in place or corroded? I use antiseize grease on mine.
 
As best I could tell they have never been removed, I needed to persuade them a bit to break them free. No rust or corrosion really.
 
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