jonsm114
Active Member
OK...this weekend my windshield actuator on the 400 will pull the window down, but does nothing to lift it. I looked on Ebay and they are available. What should I know and has anyone else had this experience?
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WOT report.....1/2 fuel and water, 2 people on board, 4400 rpm at 30mph....didn't play with the trim much but I think it could do better. Fresh bottom paint, new 4 blade props. New prop pitch is as follows, 20X18 with medium cup 1.5. The engines are 7.4 MPI 340 horse, raw water cooled mercruisers.
I took the old props to a local prop house. They were Nibral, 3 blade 20X21 1.5. two blades dinged on one prop. $370 to repair, refinish, clean and balance. They look like new. I guess I will keep them for spares.
Jon
Wasn't Looking for more speed but I was looking for better hole shot and idle maneuvering. The 4 blade moves more water for sure and at idle its a big improvement. Mid range and plain ing time are much improved. Will know more today when I get out for the WOT test. Looking for 30MPH. The dealer that supplied the props suggested I document the performance and if I needed a bit more pitch, they would adjust the props as needed. I will pull the props and send to them for final tuning, if needed. So far I am very satisfied if for nothing else, the increased maneuverability at idle. 4400 rpm is the goal....we shall see.
Love the idle response..moves water now. Stops on a dime. Investment...not hardly on these old girls...it's fun playing around tweaking them...efficiency is a long play at best...I just enjoy this thing...Speed and rpm are not the only factors that determine efficiency. If over propped you would need to advance the throttles more in order to maintain rpm. The increase in throttle would then lower manifold pressure and increase fuel flow. As they say there is no free lunch. Prop the boat so it will achieve rated rpm whether you have 3 or 4 blade props. As you have suspected 4 blades will usually improve dock manners and 3 blades will give higher top speed.
Good Morning,
I had the chance to spend a day on the boat finishing some projects this week. Made a ton of progress but also added a few things to my punch list. I'm hoping to get some help from some of you that have already completed these projects.
- Masthead/Anchor Light Replacement - My OEM pole is worn out and unreliable. It has to be replaced. I would like to relocate it from the windshield to the Radar arch. Has anyone done this? I know I will need a 3 wire unit. How long should it be? Is 12" enough? I don't have much up there other than an old TV antenna and a GPS antenna, the GPS antenna is 8-9" tall. I would probably leave the old socket in place and just run new wires to the switches, does that make sense?
- CO detector - The 2 wires going to the wall mounted detector in the Salon seem to be dead. The wires to the detector in the master bedroom showed ~12Vdc. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this?
- Shower Sump - My sump looked to have quite a bit of water in it. I would guess it was 1/2 full. Is there a way to manually turn on the bilge pumps located in the sump?
As always thanks for any help you can give me.
Search this thread as I have relocated my anchor light to the radar arch. I have posted some pictures of the finished product as well.
As for the CO Detector, check the breakers in the breaker panel and make sure they are not tripped. Check for power at the breaker also to rule that out as well.
The shower sump usually has standing water in it. I do not know of any switch to manually activate it. You can always remove the top of the shower sump and manually lift the float switch to run the pump.
Thanks. I ran new wires from the terminal block located behind the salon sofa cushions (on the engine room bulkhead to the starboard side of the stairs into the cabin) to the arch.Thanks for the reply h_gerry.
- Nice job relocating the light. Did you pull the wires out of the windshield and try to relocate them or did you just run new wires in the arch?
- I did check the breakers for the CO system and they seem to be fine. I'm wondering if anyone knows the routing of the wire to the detector in the salon so that I can start trying to trace it back and check for issues.
So, it has happened. After 5 seasons of owning my 400 Express, it is time for a repower. Unfortunately, it is not by choice. Three days into a family vacation, a coolant hose burst on my port motor and it lost all of the antifreeze causing an overheat. End result being I either blew a head gasket, craked a head or cracked the block. All of the replacement antifreeze and water ended up in the crankcase.
The fact that all of this happened 200 miles from home really made the experience wonderful.
Since both motors were up to 1600 hours I am going to repower both engines at the same time ( I really don't want to go through that experience twice).
I am waiting for the insurance companies ruling on covering it as part of my mechanical breakdown coverage.
I will post pictures of my progress once I get started. Stay tuned.
So, it has happened. After 5 seasons of owning my 400 Express, it is time for a repower. Unfortunately, it is not by choice. Three days into a family vacation, a coolant hose burst on my port motor and it lost all of the antifreeze causing an overheat. End result being I either blew a head gasket, craked a head or cracked the block. All of the replacement antifreeze and water ended up in the crankcase.
The fact that all of this happened 200 miles from home really made the experience wonderful.
Since both motors were up to 1600 hours I am going to repower both engines at the same time ( I really don't want to go through that experience twice).
I am waiting for the insurance companies ruling on covering it as part of my mechanical breakdown coverage.
I will post pictures of my progress once I get started. Stay tuned.