jonsm114
Active Member
Always an adventure....Apparently I disconnected all the instruments and when I did disconnected and isolated some ignition wires so now I have to sort that out but everything else went well.
Official 400EC thread
- Thread starter Air O'Nautical
- Start date
Always an adventure....Apparently I disconnected all the instruments and when I did disconnected and isolated some ignition wires so now I have to sort that out but everything else went well.
Eluther3
Active Member
- Mar 17, 2019
- 292
- Boat Info
- 1992 Searay 400 EC
- Engines
- Mercruiser
Quick question for you - How do the side panels come off? Do they pry out, or are there bolts or screws that need to be removed?
Nick Hahn
Member
Good question - on our list of upgrades for this coming off season. I refuse to use the "W" word ;-).
Getting the salon couch re-covered this summer. There were screws holding the top pieces in place - then found threaded studs going through holes in the top - not sure if there were supposed to be nuts on them holding them down and the screws were an "aftermarket" modification?
jonsm114
Active Member
Bolts........stainless bolts and nuts....pretty simple..
markrsimon
Active Member
Two quick things - has anyone found a way to mark where on the cabinet where one pulls to open them? Yea - somewhat self explanatory after awhile - but for guests, they just dont know (and I even get confused at times!). Maybe a small vinyl strip where the hand grip is? What have you done if anything?
Second - for the overhead storage bins, do yours stay open? Mine dont, and I’m guessing I have to buy new/updated hinges?
Thanks in advance!
Second - for the overhead storage bins, do yours stay open? Mine dont, and I’m guessing I have to buy new/updated hinges?
Thanks in advance!
Attachments
Eluther3
Active Member
- Mar 17, 2019
- 292
- Boat Info
- 1992 Searay 400 EC
- Engines
- Mercruiser
I have a 92 and mine don't stay open either
Sans Souci
Member
My 97 don’t stay open either
BVegard
New Member
markrsimon
Active Member
Those are weep hole covers, which allows water to drain out of the window channels.
Windows are made by these people - factory parts.
https://www.taylormadeproducts.com/hardware/cosmetic-plugs-and-caps/
An option from Ebay
SEA RAY BOAT SIDE WINDOW WEEP DRAIN VENT COVER GREY 8-1/2" LONG NEW 1970'S & UP
Amazon - currently out of stock
https://www.amazon.com/OnlineScuba-Taylormade-Searay-Window-Drain/dp/B006YHYKTK
BVegard
New Member
Ahh, perfect! Thank you. $57 in shipping to Norway, but that's how it is when you live in a remote corner of the world.
Nick Hahn
Member
So its (past) time to replace the vent window seal:
Had to cut out a piece to try to see what the profile was supposed to look like:
Found a similar profile on Flounder Pounder:
Hopefully it will be a match!
Any suggestions on installation? Sealing the mitered corners? "Glueing" the new profile back in - it looked like the old profile had some silicone or similar sealant behind it.
Had to cut out a piece to try to see what the profile was supposed to look like:
Found a similar profile on Flounder Pounder:
Hopefully it will be a match!
Any suggestions on installation? Sealing the mitered corners? "Glueing" the new profile back in - it looked like the old profile had some silicone or similar sealant behind it.
Nick Hahn
Member
Also need to replace the hinge seal:
Flounder Pounder Replacement:
Looks like there was a thin foam under the old seal - along with a bunch of silicone and other nastiness.
Is something supposed to be under the seal? Or can I just clean it all up and slide on the new seal?
Again, any experience / advice is appreciated.
Flounder Pounder Replacement:
Looks like there was a thin foam under the old seal - along with a bunch of silicone and other nastiness.
Is something supposed to be under the seal? Or can I just clean it all up and slide on the new seal?
Again, any experience / advice is appreciated.
markrsimon
Active Member
So its (past) time to replace the vent window seal:
Had to cut out a piece to try to see what the profile was supposed to look like:
Found a similar profile on Flounder Pounder:
Hopefully it will be a match!
Any suggestions on installation? Sealing the mitered corners? "Glueing" the new profile back in - it looked like the old profile had some silicone or similar sealant behind it.
Taylor Made has three different profiles for that foam..
https://www.taylormadeproducts.com/hardware/wing-vents/
They can ship you a small sample for free if you email/call them.
Attachments
markrsimon
Active Member
Also need to replace the hinge seal:
Flounder Pounder Replacement:
Looks like there was a thin foam under the old seal - along with a bunch of silicone and other nastiness.
Is something supposed to be under the seal? Or can I just clean it all up and slide on the new seal?
Again, any experience / advice is appreciated.
I have not been able to find this piece. I did find (and ordered) what you are looking at. It clips in there and will work as long as you dont open the vent window. When you do, it unclips from the bottom. When you close the window, it does not clip back in exactly. I’m thinking of using a small bead of silicone to hold it to the vent window. The challenge is the new piece doesnt bend inward. Even so - its the only option I could find after hours and hours of digging/looking. Taylor Made says they dont have it - didnt make it - which seemed strange.
Help, y'all...
Fixing breakfast this morning and had on all three burners on the stove. All three abruptly shut off. Pretty much had all of the 120v systems turned on, including the water heater. Assuming I've thrown a breaker of some sort, but don't see any obvious switches on the panel or in the bilge to flip it back on. Any suggestions on how to make this work again?
Thanks - Todd
Fixing breakfast this morning and had on all three burners on the stove. All three abruptly shut off. Pretty much had all of the 120v systems turned on, including the water heater. Assuming I've thrown a breaker of some sort, but don't see any obvious switches on the panel or in the bilge to flip it back on. Any suggestions on how to make this work again?
Thanks - Todd
techmitch
Well-Known Member
- May 1, 2008
- 8,395
- Boat Info
- 1999 270 DA
- Engines
- Twin 4.3s W/Alpa I Gen II's
Start with the breaker at the source/power pedestal, then the breaker where the cord plugs into the boat. Best to also check the cord to boat connection for corrosion and or loose/overheated connections.
Mitch, thanks! Ummm.....found it. I'm embarrassed to announce it was the main breaker on the salon switch panel. Literally one of the two main switches, and I just couldn't see that it had thrown when I first looked at it. Age, misplaced reading glasses, and maybe a mimosa or two probably contributed to the confusion. Thank you, sir, for your help.
Mikentucky
Member
- Jul 31, 2020
- 61
- Boat Info
- 1994 400 Express Cruiser, "Lollygagging"
- Engines
- twin inboard Mercruiser 7.4L Bluewater, straight drives
Hey guys, I tried to do a search in our group and also the general discussion with no luck. 94 400EC with Bluewater carbureted 7.4 motors. We lost the port motor Saturday due to fuel flow. It will stay running with starting fluid sprayed into carb, or if I let it sit for 5 minutes or so it'll start and idle for several seconds until it starves for fuel again. So it's getting fuel, just not nearly enough. I took off the short line between the motor-mounted filter housing outlet and the fuel pump, the pump has suction but I'm not sure if it's the proper amount? I also did just fill both tanks, so I'm wondering if maybe a clogged tank vent and hardly any air space in the tank would keep the fuel from being drawn in by the pump?
Anyway, I'm going to refresh the fuel systems this afternoon when I get off work. I'll be changing out all the filters and also plan to remove the seawater/fuel pump assemblies on both motors so I can put in new raw water impellers and clean out/lube their fuel pumps (done some online research but never done impellers or messed with the pulley-driven fuel pumps so this will be a learning experience LOL).
My question is... aside from welcoming any tips on the impellers or fuel pump work... does anybody happen to know the part numbers for the screw-on fuel filters, both the motor mounted ones and the two that are back by the tank selector switches? My marina is 30 minutes away, I would rather not have to make a trip down there just to get filter part numbers LOL. Thanks in advance!
Anyway, I'm going to refresh the fuel systems this afternoon when I get off work. I'll be changing out all the filters and also plan to remove the seawater/fuel pump assemblies on both motors so I can put in new raw water impellers and clean out/lube their fuel pumps (done some online research but never done impellers or messed with the pulley-driven fuel pumps so this will be a learning experience LOL).
My question is... aside from welcoming any tips on the impellers or fuel pump work... does anybody happen to know the part numbers for the screw-on fuel filters, both the motor mounted ones and the two that are back by the tank selector switches? My marina is 30 minutes away, I would rather not have to make a trip down there just to get filter part numbers LOL. Thanks in advance!
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Mikentucky
Member
- Jul 31, 2020
- 61
- Boat Info
- 1994 400 Express Cruiser, "Lollygagging"
- Engines
- twin inboard Mercruiser 7.4L Bluewater, straight drives
Excellent idea and I'll likely do the same...but don't my motors spin opposite directions? If so, does the impeller orientation matter (which way I lay the impeller vanes in as I insert it into the housing), or will the vanes "reorient" themselves to the proper direction no matter which motor it's installed on? Thanks
