Official 380 Thread

During his 20 minute tour (and instructional demonstration) of my boat this weekend in Atlantic City, I asked Captain Rusty Higgins about this issue. Since Rusty was an invitee to our party and not technically "on the job," I politely refused his offer to pull panels in the port-side locker in the forward stateroom to check on the ductwork, as he explained the pathway of the cool air and how the plenum works inside the register in the stateroom. He suggested there may be a zip tie pulled too tight or a kink in the ducting, so this is something that bears investigation. Then he went over to Tim's Sneaker boat and started fixing something, then into the bilge of Impulse III's 410DA. Earlier that morning, he scrubbed the scum line of Sea Gull's boot stripe before Jeff woke up. The man cannot rest while he's tooling about Sea Rays, but he's a joy to watch!
 
Hi all, just made the move from a '97 330DA to an '04 380DA and have a question concerning the water system. When hooked up to dockside I have minimal pressure. Any ideas why it would be much lower then with the pump? Thanks, Tim
 
I have the same problem, with this boat and my prior one. I just chalked it up to crappy pressure at the marina (and just about every marina we've transiented at in the past 10 years).

Also, I installed a 45psi pressure regulator at the hose - I know there's already one in the boat but I like redundancy - but that shouldn't cause the problem. I just think that the pump is able to create a lot more pressure than city water can, unless you have super hi pressure.

water-pressure-regulator-grip.jpg
 
Tdady said:
Thanks rondds, I don't think its an issue with the marina pressure though. I never had this issue with the prior boat. Any other thoughts??
Click to expand...

Try replacing the pressure regulator (inlet) in the transom locker... I replaced mine and the pressure onboard (while hooked to dock supplied water) improved.
 
Tdady,

It might be as simple as the rubber washer at the transom water inlet connection if it has a clogged metal screen on that washer. These are the same rubber washers that are used on your washing machine hose connection at home. They can be difficult to see at this location on the boat and tend to get neglected.

Al
 
I know there have been hundreds of posts on this but I am really confused. How many lights are there in the cockpit of a 2001 380 Sundancer and what do I need to replace and with what to change the lights from white to blue. Fixtures? Bulbs? Also, are there lights in the radar arch and are they different than the other ones? Not near the boat but want to order parts for my return. Anybody able to help make this really easy?
 
There are 4 lowers and 2 in the arch. Order blue Festoon Bulbs from Mr LED. They work great about $4.50 each.
 
Sorry the website is Superbrightled.com the festoon bulbs are # 578.
 
Did a bit of closet surgery today. Pulled the panels to check for constriction in the ductwork. None noted...
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This is the plenum that splits the flow from the air condx to the forward stateroom and to the head...
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This is the back-wall panel of the closet. The pic is shot looking UP towards the gunwale. Looks good to me. Closed these back up. Just a note...be sure to mark these panels on the back when you remove them so you get the right orientation when you go to put them back in. One of mine was marked at the factory - the other wasn't. I figured this out after dissecting some parts of my last boat. Not much change in how these panels are made from 1989 to 2001. Black stuff is the duct with insulation. Blue hose is likely for the anchor washdown...

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Next was to pull this little chrome register off in the head. It is really quite limiting to the flow of air. Last trick up my sleeve is to leave this off for a while and see if it allows more air into the head. If it does I have to figure a better way to cover this unsightly hole in the wall without restricting flow of cool air.

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Just getting caught up.....you could remove 2 of the bars in the vent cover with a Dremmel, but I'm not sure how it would look. but, since you have it off, you could go and find a piece of flat stainless steel and make your own, using it as a template. Also, consider enlarging the hole in the wall of the head, and make a new cover.

Don
 
Well, after a day at the boat, it's clear that removing the vent cover did NOT help. Thanks for the tips though Don!
Problem with a bigger hole is that inside the wall there is a fitting that the ducting attaches to. Would be pretty tough to get that off, enlarge the hole, install a new larger fitting and reattach the duct. There's just no access unless maybe if you remove the medicine cabinet.

Was talking to a friend with a 410DA and he installed a duct control piece to limit the amount of air that goes to the salon from the forward unit. This re-directed air to the fwd stateroom and the head. He said it worked great. Might be something like this but not sure - I have to ask him if they make a plastic one...

sku413.jpg
 
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Ok, looks like the damper won't work either. Made a redneck damper today to see if the head would cool off. It was a TAD better but not worth all the work of installing the damper. Getting 18 degree difference in temp btwn the register and the return so the unit is working well. Bad design I guess.

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My bathroom light fixture In the shower seems to have a slow drip. Has anyone else encountered this? If so was it the hatch or something else leaking?
 
What have you guys used as replacement wiper blades? I know I replaced them a while back and I could only get them from a bus supply store on Internet. Ay suggestions? Thanks
 
Advance Auto, Auto Zone etc. has some blades for around $15-16.00 each per blade, because if yours are like mind they are bolted on, and these have the same hole locations on them as what you will get from West Marine or Marine Max.
 
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