Official 380 Thread

I have to agree, and hence the question. I "thought" the higher fuel pressure should avoid the trouble, but I'm told it has to do with the distance to the tanks. The recommendation is to add boost pumps at the tank to pressurize the lines before the motor pumps and fuel rails.
An immediate restart has never been a problem, even after a hard run, but after 2 or 3 hours on the hook both of the girls spin and "try" to start but won't run. So far, cooling the fuel rails on both the girls with the transom shower for +/- 5 minutes takes care of it and everyone is running again.
I did find some Merc documentation on the subject, but I think I'd avoid a return line (if there is one) and run a different pump to raise the pressure in the rails as well.
 
I've been noodling this for a while...and a couple of thoughts. First, vapor lock takes several things working together. You could just start attacking symptoms, but I'm really curious about finding the cause. It baffles me that you have two fuel pumps, and both engines are vapor locked. The problem is that vapor lock is actually pretty unusual with modern fuels. Its caused by fuel boiling in the lines (fuel under a vacuum (suction side) boils at a much lower temp for every inch of vacum. On the pressure side fuel tends to boil at a much higher temp under pressure). First, I would test for it by using a fuel pressure gauge in line to confirm that you have a fuel vacuum condition. After a hot soak, if you have fuel pressure at the start up attempt its not vapor locked. (This isn't worth dying for but under controlled conditions, if you didn't want to use a fuel pressure guage, it would be interesting to know if pressing the fitting on your Shrader valve actually releases air or fuel when you think you are locked up). If you are boiling fuel, and the formulation for you locally is correct, I'd follow the fuel lines and insulate them as much as possible. You may have read this TSB from Mercruiser. http://www.*******.com/merc/Bullet/99/99_07.pdf If the link is blocked, go to b.o.a.t.f.i.x dot com
 
Pseudomind said:
Just a guess here, but do some research on "Station Wagon Effect"
Click to expand...

Just a follow up - read a bit about this effect and I think it was the problem. I've been running with the forward hatch cracked an inch to get some ventilation and haven't had an issue since. Thanks for the info.
 
Our general search for factory replacement carpet has lead to the Only Mate considering one of the Nuteak/Seadek faux teak products (real teak is OUT...buddy spent $50k+ on real teak on his 47SB and it is miserably hot...watching his family pour buckets of water on it just to walk around is NUTS). Wondering if anyone had used it specifically on their 380 and if so, the feedback and costs. I would probably do the swim platform, rear deck, and side steps (not the gunwales).
 
Does anyone have the measurements for the mattress in the V-berth handy? I'm at home, cutting a new mattress from a kingsized piece of temperpedic foam, and have measurements and the old foam topper, but it doesn't look right.
 
I thought I would share a little of my experience with my 380 in some big (for me) seas.

After spending 4 great days in Oak Bluffs on Martha's Vineyard with my wife and 2 daughters, we departed early Tuesday morning for our home port in Rhode Island. It's about a 3 hour ride, half in Vineyard Sound and Rhode Island sound which is essentially open ocean. We stayed an extra day because a front moved through and after checking weather and marine forecasts, Tuesday looked to be a great ride while Monday had 20 kt winds. The marine forecast was for 10 kt winds and 2 foot seas in the sound which is usually good conditions. I checked a buoy along my route and the wave height was under 2 feet.

The wind was 5-10 knots on a gorgeous morning as I pulled out around 6:45 am. Rounding the north side of MV the waves were maybe 1-2 feet and it looked just as predicted. Halfway down Vineyard Sound 4 foot rollers started but the boat handled them easily with some throttle adjustment. I erroneously thought that would probably be as bad as it gets.

2/3 of the way down the sound, right near Cuttyhunk, things changed quickly. I think a small front or something moved through because the waves doubled in size and it was like a washing machine. 7 and 8 foot waves continuously came from all angles, mostly from the SW. I don't know about you guys but being in a trough looking at a wave coming at you thats well above your bow is a humbling, stressful experience. I would have ducked into Cuttyhunk to wait it out but theres only a narrow rocky channel on the south side of the sound to get in there, I've never navigated it before, and the guide books say stay the hell away. I didnt want to end up on the rocks. I've always had respect for the seas, and these conditions made me nervous with my wife and 2 young daughters on board. I had them stay in the cabin with their life jackets on.

Then the fog rolled in. Are you kidding me?? Using radar and GPS I stayed on course out into RI sound. The waves were so big I was losing radar contacts because of the change in orientation of the radar as the boat went up and down. I was in this crap for about an hour but it felt like a day. Eventually the fog passed, the waves dropped to 4 foot rollers and when I got to the mouth of the Sakonnet River it turned to glass! I dropped to neutral, checked on the family ( kids thought it was a fun roller coaster, wife not so much), thanked God, kissed my Sea Ray, and then lit a 6x60 Oliva Serie V cigar at 830 in the morning.

At no time did I feel this boat couldn't handle the conditions. It handled beautifully. I really felt fortunate to have purchased such a well built boat. The engines were immediately responsive as I was throttling up and down constantly. The boat handled the waves perfectly, either cutting through or riding peaks and troughs depending on my goal. The electronics were seamless, giving me all the info I needed to safely navigate through.

I went back and read through all the weather and marine info I could find thinking I might have missed something. I wouldn't willingly take my family through that. I've always had respect for the sea, now even more so. It's nice to know that Sea Ray is such a well built boat and have confidence that it can handle it when the unexpected occurs, and it does.
 
I've put in flexible teak in last year on my 2006 38 dancer, lot better than the carpet easy to take care of however it get a little hot in direct sun but is manageable. I did my whole cockpit for 3500 bucks installed.
 
I got caught in the front that moved through Provincetown on Sunday afternoon.it was such a nice ride down from Boston but things changed quickly in the afternoon. I encountered 8 ft seas right outside the harbor, after a broken since bottle and since my son had invited some friends and they were panicking I decided to go back to the harbor and send them back on the ferry. The boat handled the seas with grace and I do agree with waves taller than your bow is very humbling and stressful. Needless to stay I got stuck in p town with bunch of other boaters at the marina some made an attempt on Monday morning but came right back with 20 kt winds. I checked the forecast and wed was the best day to come back and it was.
 
Buffalo soldier can you share some pictures of your dingy set up. Much appreciated
 
anyone have an idea on how to track down a small transmisson oil leak on the port engine on my 38' sea ray (8.1L mercruiser V drive)? a few drips after each use, but not enough for the fluid level to go down at least as seen on the dip stick. any suggestions would be appreciated. thanks, jim k
 
I would guess it is from the shaft seal, It was recommended by a member of CSR (I believe it was FWebster, but he said nothing about the stop leak) to put a diaper under and monitor it, which I did a couple of years ago, my transmission level stays full since I added a couple of ounces of Valvoline Max Life Transmission stop leak, BUT DO THIS AT YOUR ON RISK. I am not sure I would try and replace all of the fluid with stop leak, I would think it should work(?) but I will defer to others who may know more about using this item? I still will get an oily residue on my hand when I feel underneath around the shaft and seal, and every now and then a drop or two of transmission fluid on the diaper, but knock on wood so far so good

You will hear from some that if it gets to bad you will have to pull the transmission, but will also need to pull the engine to do so, it can be done without pulling the engine, there is a procedure out on the web some place which tells how, may even be in CSR. basically what it amounts to is that you have to loosen the motor mounts and have the end of your engine propped up on wooden blocks, remove the shaft and then lift out the transmission.

The mechanic here at my marina knows how to do this procedure.

Maybe someone else has more to offer then I?

Good luck
 
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Hello All -

New here and today is a big day - we are placing an offer on a new to us 2006 38DA.

Our last boat was a 42 flybridge type - so I have a ton of questions. I am glad to have found this forum.

I notice that the space in the engine compartment is pretty tight .... how challenging is it to change the impellars on the engines and the generator? It seems that the electric engine hatch does not open to vertical?

I know this sounds a little stupid for you pro's....please bear with me :)

Thanks!
 
Could someone send me a close up of the hinge on the door to the hot water heater on a 2001 380 in the aft cabin.. I dont think my carpet installer replaced it correctly. Thanx in advance......
 
Jim,
I am having the same issue, please post any news as to whatever you end up finding with yours. I think I am gonna try the diaper idea myself.
 
I am upgrading my transducer to go with a new DSM300 and wondering if any of you have yours "on the hard" yet. If so, could I impose on you for the angle of the hull at the spot of your transducer so I can get the fairing block cut to general specs. The marina can adjust it slightly to correct, but I'm trying to make this process as efficient as possible, and frankly trust you guys' numbers and my band saw more than theirs. The current transducer was not only incorrect, it was incorrectly installed without a fairing block...so at least the inaccurate information is coming from roughly 5-7% out of square.
 
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Have any of you guys ever replaced your hot water heater before it started to give you problems? This year I have been getting a bad smell from the water on the hot water side. I did all the suggestion with bleach and water conditioners as mentioned on this site and it works for a short period of time.

Just installed a new wood floor in boat and would not want this thing to let loose and wreck it. On the 380DA there is no overflow drain in the pan or well that the heater it sits in. There is a drain from the heater to the bilge but thats it. I had a problem once where the pressure realease valve did not work and it fill my entire aft cabin with water. Forgot to turn off fresh water breaker as well.

Has anyone replaced it before haveing issues with it? thanks
 
Has anyone replaced the starter solenoids on their 8.1's. I'm beginning to get that annoying click and no engine turnover. Do think it is terribly difficult...thought I'd ask before I jump into it..Thanks
 
Do your green LED's flicker annoyingly, or dim for no apparent reason? Here is the fix...and it takes about ten minutes. Order two new LED's from Flounder Pounder. Your 380 probably has pigtailed ones, but order the spade ones instead. Turn off shore power. Open the panel door by taking out all the little screws (except the hinges). The door swings open. Pop one of the LED's out the front. Using a small pair of dykes, cut the wires at the LED. Using a wire stripper, pull about 3/8ths inch of wire, put a little piece of heatshrink on and add a spade terminal to both wires and crimp. Use a safe heat source and shrink the heat shrink (extra points if you solder). Plug the spades onto the new LED, pop it back in. Replace for the next side. Honestly...10-15 minute job to stop that annoying flicker.
 
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