- Feb 14, 2009
- 1,361
- Boat Info
- '07 42SS Carver, full electronics array
'03 380DA, RL80C+, ST7001, Kohl 7.3,4kw o/array sold
- Engines
- 8.1S Crusader express drives
Just completed replacing my dash panels (mine was burned by a defective cigar lighter that didn't close completely). I thought I was give a brief outline of the process and costs for anyone looking at the project in the future.
First, I asked MM for the blank, and don't remember what they quoted me, because I think I passed out. I emailed the various dash panel guys (mine was made by Technografix) and finally settled on Scott Cambra at Vectorled. I think I ordered it in probably November. Since it was winter, there was considerable back and forth, and Scott had some problems but everything worked out. I think the total bill, both dashes, back lighting, shipping, etc, was around $450 or so? In the original discussions, Scott told me to pull the dash and send it to him and he'd copy it. Because of the daunting nature of the project
I elected to take pictures and measurements and send them to him instead. Unfortunately for me, that resulted in a measurement error on my part that added to the time and expense when the lower panel came back. I was able to delete the stupid warning and could have added the boat name, but kept it simple. I was absolutely terrified that I was going to screw something up, and was very careful. The upper gauges were easy...45 minutes, start to finish. Unscrew the panel, pull it a little forward, take a cameraphone picture of the connects, mark the wires as necessary, remove and replace.
The lower was ridiculous. Same general idea...remove the big stuff first. Then lay the new panel on the dash, face down on a protective cloth. Flip the old panel over in the opening, and start replacing one switch at a time (after marking and taking pictures). I used a pair of regular insulated pliers to pull each wire (with needle nose available for tight spots), then a screwdriver to press the tabs of the switches so they would pop out. Searay apparently hotglued them all in place, so be prepared to use a little pick to pull the hot glue off the edges of the switches...it came off pretty easily and I think I'll use silicone to replace it. The process took me probably four hours start to finish. Biggest pain was the little bulb for the automatic extinguisher. The wires for it had to be cut and spliced. Some small dremeling of the panel and the mounting space, but nothing dramatic (I used a rechargeable Dremel with a a grinding bit and a small drill bit). I used the drill bit to start some new holes, and backed the panel with 1/8" rubber insulation. I'd post pictures, but the differences are really hard to see without being there. The fresh dash looks great, matches very well. Project didn't involve a high level of difficulty, but did involve a pretty high pucker factor and could not be done (at least my this DIY'er) with any assistance from adult beverages.
First, I asked MM for the blank, and don't remember what they quoted me, because I think I passed out. I emailed the various dash panel guys (mine was made by Technografix) and finally settled on Scott Cambra at Vectorled. I think I ordered it in probably November. Since it was winter, there was considerable back and forth, and Scott had some problems but everything worked out. I think the total bill, both dashes, back lighting, shipping, etc, was around $450 or so? In the original discussions, Scott told me to pull the dash and send it to him and he'd copy it. Because of the daunting nature of the project
I elected to take pictures and measurements and send them to him instead. Unfortunately for me, that resulted in a measurement error on my part that added to the time and expense when the lower panel came back. I was able to delete the stupid warning and could have added the boat name, but kept it simple. I was absolutely terrified that I was going to screw something up, and was very careful. The upper gauges were easy...45 minutes, start to finish. Unscrew the panel, pull it a little forward, take a cameraphone picture of the connects, mark the wires as necessary, remove and replace.
The lower was ridiculous. Same general idea...remove the big stuff first. Then lay the new panel on the dash, face down on a protective cloth. Flip the old panel over in the opening, and start replacing one switch at a time (after marking and taking pictures). I used a pair of regular insulated pliers to pull each wire (with needle nose available for tight spots), then a screwdriver to press the tabs of the switches so they would pop out. Searay apparently hotglued them all in place, so be prepared to use a little pick to pull the hot glue off the edges of the switches...it came off pretty easily and I think I'll use silicone to replace it. The process took me probably four hours start to finish. Biggest pain was the little bulb for the automatic extinguisher. The wires for it had to be cut and spliced. Some small dremeling of the panel and the mounting space, but nothing dramatic (I used a rechargeable Dremel with a a grinding bit and a small drill bit). I used the drill bit to start some new holes, and backed the panel with 1/8" rubber insulation. I'd post pictures, but the differences are really hard to see without being there. The fresh dash looks great, matches very well. Project didn't involve a high level of difficulty, but did involve a pretty high pucker factor and could not be done (at least my this DIY'er) with any assistance from adult beverages.
