Official 380 Thread

Curious to see where you guys store stuff like oil and other non flamable fluids. I used to store them in the cocpit storage under the sink but think thats a waste of good space. Any ideas about bilge storage? Any pics of what you have done would be helpful. thanks
 
Teak and Holly Carpet Replacement/Nuteak (project 4 of 23)

Well the flooring is coming along on the 380. I got the local Nuteak guy, Rene Munnell, to do the install. The carpet was in poor shape and rather than replace it with carpet it seemed to make more sense to go with hard flooring. Whoever had the idea to use carpet (marine grade or not) on a boat anyway? I looked at the three major suppliers of synthetic/faux teak and Nu-teak seemed to offer the best combination. It took longer than I thought it would (or Rene for that matter), but partly because Rene was meticulous and partly because Sea Ray glued the carpet down so well it practically had to be chiseled up in some areas. The stairs still need to be done but the rest of the boat is complete. I was especially happy with how well he was able to make the three compartment covers match with the rest of the flooring. Of the 23 jobs undertaken on the boat, this is one I would absolutely hand off to the experts. There is no way I could have done a job like this nearly as well as Rene. This isn’t a project that can be done in a weekend but one that made a tremendous difference in the way the boat looks. Everyone that’s seen this flooring loves it. Here are the before and after pics. Quick update, the work never got completed by the local subcontractor, Rene, and the Master Distributor out of Chicago and NuTeak have yet to suggest a solution. I can't recommend the product at this time so removed the contact info.
 

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Flat Screen TV upgrade Cockpit and Cabin Sea Ray 380 (project updates 5 & 22)

The TV upgrade and new install is now done except for the final connections to the crestron equipment and adding the fittings.
For the replacement of the 15” refrigerator, I went with the Vizio 23” edge lit LED. With a 16:9 format the TV needed to be larger than the initial 15” opening or it would have looked a little mismatched. I had to build a box from MFB and painted it black. The MFB gave some additional support to the articulating TV mount. I had to remove the fridge, then unscrew the black trim around the TV (no Christmas trees as someone else posted. Real screws for me so be careful when prying). I used the same mount for both the fridge tv and the cockpit tv. I got them from Amazon for about 20 bucks a pop. I replaced some of the mount hardware with wingnuts to allow me to loosen and tighten the mount without a wrench.
For the cockpit TV, I drilled a one and one half inch hole for all of the wires. The mount I selected would handle one or two small wires hidden in the housing, but not the bundle of wires I am using (crestron, power, HDMI etc). I used a piece of spare “star board”. It’s plastic and I used it as a backer board so the screws wouldn’t pull through. For the TV here I used a Vizio 19” edge lit LED. With the articulating mount on the port side it is above the sink and can be seen from the helm or from the seating area. When swiveled it can be seen from the swim platform.
http://picasaweb.google.com/116887177506323657191/FlatScreenTv?feat=directlink
 
Dash Panel Replacements with LED upgrades (project 7 update)

I have virtually all of the panels replaced on the 380 at this point. The switch panel, instrument panel, E80 chartplotter panel, even a back up camera panel to overlay a hole made from a previous install in the stern (remote radio control), added bilge switches to the pump panel etc. I had the name of the boat added and replaced the stupid black swoop with the gold sea ray with a wood grain sea ray. The Sea Ray name I back lit with a yellow LED and the Wolverine DreaM III was backlit blue. The LED’s were about $3.50 each and purchased from
http://ledaccentlights.net/store/
The dash panels made a huge difference in the look of the boat. The old ones were faded, chipped and in overall poor shape. I worked with Scott Cambra at Vector Imaging. Scott bent over backwards to deliver a great product at a really good price on time. I don’t know how the guy does it, but he was able to do everything I asked and then some. One thing that I learned working with Scott is that whenever possible send him the old panels and exact dimensions of things you need cut. Unfortunately, Raymarine and others don’t always supply the correct dimensions on their website and nothing is worse for Scott (and ultimately you) to cut a panel that is even a little off. As an example, my E80 when cut to the exact template that Scott had didn’t quite fit my panel and Raymarine had the wrong template listed for my 6002. One other thing, Scott can backlight your switches which I highly recommend but when he says the thin wire can be broken if mishandled he means it. After replacing about 20 switches and three electronic devices, I found that I had accidentally broken 4 of the switch wires. I will solder the wires and they will work fine but one more thing to do that wouldn’t be required if I had been a bit more careful. Scott said he gets about 60 emails a day so be patient. I think you’ll find it worth your while. My pics and the LED backlighting I added is below. If you want replacement panels, Scott can be reached at www.vectorled.com or scottcambra@verizon.net
The first 5 or so are the old panels and the new ones follow
http://picasaweb.google.com/116887177506323657191/DashPanels?feat=directlink
 
Tri color spoiler lights, LED (RGB) swim platform lights, LED cockpit lights and Blue Underwater Lights (Projects 13, 14,15 and 23)
Ok, here is what things look like now that these projects are done. The spoiler lights use the switch as a momentary to turn from white to blue to red to off. About $100 each from yacht lights. The blue is cool but bugs still think it's white lighting. The holes in the spoiler required widening slightly but almost a drop in. Two lights do a nice job lighting up most of the interior although the twilight pics don't do them justice.

The cockpit lights are also from yacht lights and were on sale for 30 apiece. They are actually brighter than the origs.

The Swim platform lights are RGB (up to a million colors) hooked into a wireless controller. Be aware that the chinese typically use positive not negative for ground which means not all controllers will work with the lights. Also, one manufacturer may put their lights in RGB order, the next GBR etc. No big deal except I used pod lights under the swim platform for Joe Florida (do a web search or check out my other posts) and a chinese source for ribbon lights and silicon/water resistant. They don't match so on the same controller they will blink or fade at the same time but in different colors. Anyway, the guys loved the look and my 380's platform is above the water enough to really show off the lighting.

The underwater lights were most of a flyer for me. I had been using abyss white lights (2) under my 2005 SR 300 but I took a chance and put in 3 blues. I also moved the lights closer to the surface (only a couple of inches below the water) for a couple of reasons. The first is that blue attenuates more quickly in the murky water we have in the lakes up here. The second, is that I wanted a more pronounced "rooster tail" effect. When I get more pics of these lights at night I will add them. I was a little concerned that the low cost of these lights might mean poor quality or low lumens but that didn't seen to be the case. I have these wired into my dash panel. The lights are from aqualeds. The instructions were minimal, ok, non existent. but the install was a breeze and I put in a 5 amp switchblade fuse to be safe. Here are the pics
http://picasaweb.google.com/116887177506323657191/UnderwaterSpoilerAndPlatformLights?feat=directlinkhttp://picasaweb.google.com/softballchickabby/UnderwaterSpoilerAndPlatformLights?feat=directlink
 
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Request for help.
Ok I got the teleflex gauge rebuilt by the company since they no longer make it and I couldn't find an old one anywhere. I have one switch on my dash that is wired, but doesn't seem to do anything. Short of tracing the wiring (because I can't tell from the paperwork I have on my 380) what does the accessory light switch on the dash panel:huh: operate on the 380? Does it power the chartplotter (last panel electronic that I have to install) or something else assuming it was a factory prewire.
Thanks
 
Hello all,
In the process of purchasing a 380DA, Cat 3126, sea trial tomorrow. Any recommendations for a surveyor and a diesel tech in the Tampa area would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Bob
 
A couple of weeks ago, wife noticed a mildewy smell in the cabin. About a week later, I noticed the water pump cycling briefly, and at odd times. I didn't see any water anywhere, but did notice that the aft through hull drain on the port side had water coming out when the pump was running. I pulled the manuals and checked water lines...everything seemed fine. Through process of elimination, I decided it had to be the water heater, but damned if I knew where it was. Although I looked for the water heater, I couldn't find the location in the manuals. Finally found it under the midberth. It was clearly leaking...and immersed in several inches of crappy water (complete with mildewy odor...yuck!). I went through the CSR postings, found a direct Seaward replacement on eBay...shipped to me for about $250 (I didn't upgrade to stainless steel or 11 gallons, just went with the girl that brought me to the dance). The only real difference was that our factory install did not have a heat exchanger hook up, but the replacement (even with the rear exchanger nozzles) fit fine. To remove the midberth and gain access, I first took off the rear panel (four Philips screws). Then removed the lower sliding board and mattress (two Philips screws). The water heater was held in place with four Philips screws and the four hoses were held with two hose clamps and two clip fittings very similar to the ones used on our pool (remove a circlip, press together, pull apart, all good). With everything out, I cleaned the scum, and some of the paint had come up to I put marine primer over it. The wiring was very straightforward...three wires. After cutting power, I cut the three wires, then reattached with butt connectors, electrical tape and heat shrink tubing (used the electrical outlet in the little cabinet on the starboard side above the midberth to plug in a heat gun). Reattaching the rear panel was LOTS easier when I held it in place with a couple of little screwdrivers through the top holes while fastening the lower screws. (Note to self...I couldn't get the hot water heater out without removing the midberth. Might have been possible to leave the rear panel. Definitely wasn't smart to try and pick the damn thing up without draining it...in the future, use the "drain" knob liberally.)

I ran water first, and it held fine...no leaks. Opened faucets to bleed the air...all good. Then powered up...lots of hot water.

If you go to tackle this project, take pipe dope (or thread tape sealant), extensions to use a power drill (some of the screws are tough to get to), some silicone and a delivery mechanism (gun?), large Crescent wrench (to exchange the in/out fittings from one heater to the other), a wet dry vac, wiring stuff (butt connectors, electrical tape, heat shrink and a heat gun), something to collect excess water from the pipes (I used a mixing bowl), rags, and possibly some marine primer and a brush. I give this list because I didn't have a lot of this, and the project would have been much easier if I had been prepared. Total time, probably an hour or two to disconnect everything and another hour or two to put it all back. I was in unfamiliar territory, so I took my time.
 
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Good post because of the details. Thanks. BTW, when you guys leave your boat, do you leave the hot water on or off? Certainly off conserves power, but will the HWH last longer if you leave it on?

Don
 
Thanks...I couldn't find a write up on it anywhere else, so I thought I would put one up for the next guy.

We shut almost everything down when we leave. Just leave refrigerator on, and AC on at about 78 to keep humidity to a minimum.
 
wolverineDreaM said:
Teak and Holly Carpet Replacement/Nuteak (project 4 of 23)

Well the flooring is coming along on the 380. I got the local Nuteak guy, Rene Munnell, to do the install. The carpet was in poor shape and rather than replace it with carpet it seemed to make more sense to go with hard flooring. Whoever had the idea to use carpet (marine grade or not) on a boat anyway? I looked at the three major suppliers of synthetic/faux teak and Nu-teak seemed to offer the best combination. It took longer than I thought it would (or Rene for that matter), but partly because Rene was meticulous and partly because Sea Ray glued the carpet down so well it practically had to be chiseled up in some areas. The stairs still need to be done but the rest of the boat is complete. I was especially happy with how well he was able to make the three compartment covers match with the rest of the flooring. Of the 23 jobs undertaken on the boat, this is one I would absolutely hand off to the experts. There is no way I could have done a job like this nearly as well as Rene. This isn’t a project that can be done in a weekend but one that made a tremendous difference in the way the boat looks. Everyone that’s seen this flooring loves it. Here are the before and after pics. By the way, if anyone else is in the area (Minnesota) and wants to know more about this, feel free to contact Rene at renemunnell@yahoo.com.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this post. It gave my wife and I a really good look at flooring options. Nice work!
 
Oops, yeah. That too. I also leave the Port and Starboard systems on. Not sure why, though.
 
Thanks in advance for any insight. I took a 2003 380DA, 3126 Cats for a pre-purchase sea trial yesterday. Wasn't hauled yet so not sure about bottom and running gear condition. It seemed to be bow high on plane with full tabs. Performance was between 19-20kts at 2200 RPM with WOT around 2400 RPM. This seemed a bit low to me.
Any thoughts or ideas?
Thanks again.
 
I'd guess that the bottom and props are fouled and fouled bad. You should at the very least see 2800 RPM at WOT (2825-2850 preferred) with a full load of fuel, water, people and stuff. If you are only seeing 2400 RPM at WOT something is wrong...VERY wrong!!!

On the top of the valve covers of each motor will be a bare idle speed. Probably in the neighborhood of 3100RPM. Whatever the number is, that is the RPMs that each motor should reach at the dock in neutral at full throtle. If you can't reach that number, then the easy thing to check is the cable for full throw.

But I'd still bet the bottom is fouled for now.
 
Oh....and once you figure out the first problem, that boat should cruise 22-24 knots at the rated 2400 RPM cruise RPMs.
 
Hey guys, a couple questions:

1) A few times this season my carbon monoxide detectors have alarmed soon after leaving the dock. I'm in a pretty tight slip, but it doesn't take too long for my engines to warm up and leave, and the detectors alarm soon after I'm underway. I've tried running the blowers on continuously and opening the bow hatch to get some ventilation but I'm still getting alarms. After I get out of the marina, I have to shut off the engines and electrical in order to get them to reset. They don't go off again after I've reset them. Thoughts?

2) I've replaced the holding tank filter, completely emptied the holding tank and added de-odorizer. I've noticed in the head when i start to fill with fresh water I can still detect a holding tank odor. I'm not sure what to do next

3) I added the Nautley Dinghy ramp XL to the swim platform and it works great. The dinghy is easy to load, the mid-transom door has enough clearance to open, and I haven't noticed a performance decrease when the dinghy is on. The arms store perfectly in the narrow compartment in the cabin (in front of the couch) with a little maneuvering. I'll post some pics soon
 
Has anyone upgraded their RL80C to either the Raymarine E120 or C120?

I believe my radome is compatible with the Classic C and E-Series, but I'm not sure about the autopilot 7001?

I'm also wondering if it will fit? Looks like it will be very tight if it does fit at all.
 
anyone experienced ROUGH idle at start and surging . No problem once running off 1000 rpm.
merc dealer has looked at it no codes in ecm? Anyone encounter this on 7.4 horizons.Only my port engine starboard runs great .
 
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