Official 380 Thread

I have 2 friends interested in that version. One has a 38, and the other has a 310.

My only concerns was with the Dinghy being cantilevered would it touch the water when the 310 was getting up on plane.

And Is the swim platform hardware strong enough?

Please post a few pictures.
 
Can any of you guys tell me how to gain inside access to my AC discharge tru-hull fittings? looking to replace them so I looked under couch, behind cabinets, and cant find them. Were access given to replace them? Please help!
 
I have a 2006 sundancer with a center entrance transom door. All winter the door has been very hard to open. Yesterday the bottom hinge snapped. Has anyone had this problem? if so what do the hinges cost?
 
Shaun Quilty said:
I have a 2006 sundancer with a center entrance transom door. All winter the door has been very hard to open. Yesterday the bottom hinge snapped. Has anyone had this problem? if so what do the hinges cost?
Click to expand...


I'm also in the NE. Did you store your boat outside this winter? It sounds like something warped, hopefully just the bracket. I can't imagine it would be too expensive to get another one. I haven't noticed any difference with my door but I was stored indoors so the temperature swings were not great. Good luck.
 
Shaun Quilty said:
I have a 2006 sundancer with a center entrance transom door. All winter the door has been very hard to open. Yesterday the bottom hinge snapped. Has anyone had this problem? if so what do the hinges cost?
Click to expand...
I'm not familiar with the hinge style on the newer DA's, our model has a SS piano hinge. easy to get and install if it will cover the holes from your hinges.
 
Well, here it is, my first official post as a 380 owner. My 2005 300DA was sold last month which means I only made dual boat payments for two months (thankfully). I thought I would let everyone know my plan around the rather large rehab I have planned and in the works for the Wolverine DreaM III in the hopes that I can get some helpful advice and maybe share some ideas with others including which suppliers were good (or not) and what prices looked like.

The basics: I live in MN now and boat primarily on Lake Minnetonka just outside of the twin cities in the western suburbs. The 380 I purchased was at a great price and even came with a bow thruster. The survey showed some issues as you would expect on an eleven year old boat that spent most of its life on salt water (TX).

I head up sales and marketing for a company based in Halifax NS and fly about 200,000 actual miles a year so this project is a bit like building a house remotely.

The plan:
1) Prep and Shipment from TX to MN
2) Bring mechanical up to snuff
3) Canvas replacement
4) Remove carpeting in cabin and replace with nu-teak. Who ever thought carpet made sense on a marine vessel ought to serve a lifetime in hell with a scrub brush, carpet cleaner and mildew remover.
5) Replace the 15" frig tv with a flat panel
6) Add a 3000 watt inverter
7) Replace dash panels, switches, compass
8) Entertainment - this is where it gets a bit overboard

9) Remove and replace vinyl hull stripes, logos and model numbers
10) Decided that the name plates all in gold really don't look good in 2010 so need to be silver (or silverlike)
 
Welcome aboard! Having nearly completed my boat updating, I can completely relate. Look forward to the questions and I'm sure someone here has the answers.
 
oops got called to a meeting here is more of it...
Well, here it is, my first official post as a 380 owner. My 2005 300DA was sold last month which means I only made dual boat payments for two months (thankfully). I thought I would let everyone know my plan around the rather large rehab I have planned and in the works for the Wolverine DreaM III in the hopes that I can get some helpful advice and maybe share some ideas with others including which suppliers were good (or not) and what prices looked like.

The basics: I live in MN now and boat primarily on Lake Minnetonka just outside of the twin cities in the western suburbs. The 380 I purchased was at a great price and even came with a bow thruster. The survey showed some issues as you would expect on an eleven year old boat that spent most of its life on salt water (TX).

I head up sales and marketing for a company based in Halifax NS and fly about 200,000 actual miles a year so this project is a bit like building a house remotely.

The plan:
1) Prep and Shipment from TX to MN
2) Bring mechanical up to snuff
3) Canvas replacement
4) Remove carpeting in cabin and replace with nu-teak (holly&teak). Who ever thought carpet made sense on a marine vessel ought to serve a lifetime in hell with a scrub brush, carpet cleaner and mildew remover.
5) Replace the 15" frig tv with a flat panel
6) Add a 3000 watt inverter
7) Replace dash panels, switches, compass
8) Entertainment - this is where it gets a bit overboard
-Add a crestron mp2e ethernet based media system with pad8a
-Add crestron tps-2000 touch panel below the chartplotter on a custom panel
-Add XM, AM/FM/TV, IPOD modules
-Waterproof remote (RTI)
-Add 12 button remote push button switch for operation of the system from the stern
-Replace all speakers including the additional 4 that the previous owner installed at the stern and the 4 installed in plywood,vinyl covered speaker boxes on the arch
two subwoofers
-Use E80 and tps 2000 touch panel to run GUI for videos, tv, etc
9) Remove and replace vinyl hull stripes, logos and model numbers
10) Decided that the name plates all in gold really don't look good in 2010 so need to be silver (or silverlike)
11) Swap my E80 chartplotter on my 300 with the C80 on the new boat
12) Add a raymarine 218 radio/hailer with marine speaker to yell at idiots parked on my anchor line at big island
13) Replace arch lights with tri color LED's
14) Replace cockpit lights with white LED's
15) Replace nav light with LED
16) Replace vhf antenna
17) Replace batteries and add an extra to one of the banks for stereo. 6 total: 2 for bank a, 3 for bank b, 1 for the bowthruster and 1 for the gen
18) LED lighting for backlighting custom dashpanels
19) Replace cockpit carpet
20) LED multicolor lights under the swim platform for "accents" although my wife is worried it will look like a disco boat although with a brass pole mounted on the swim platform I think I can see some very different possibilities (not sure she would buy into that particular customized feature though)
21) "Touch up" seating and repair minor cuts
22) Add removable flat screen and mount to cockpit
23) Underwater lights, LED

Did I mention that I got a good price on the boat? lol

So where do things stand?

I purchased the boat in Jan and it was prepped and shipped in Feb.
The prep including removing the mast and winterization ran 1600 bucks. That seemed a little pricey and more so once I saw how they prepped the boat. They hadn't run antifreeze which really could have damaged the engines here in MN, taped all the loose bits down with cheap tape that required the use of sticker remover to get off of the fiberglass and cut the wires on some things like the vhf antenna so close to the mount that there was no way to use it again. Thumbs down on the prep

The boat transportation ran 4800 and was stellar. They checked on everything the week before they arrived. They even called me twice while transporting with updates. Thumbs up here and while they are out of MN they go everywhere. Here is their contact info:
Cross Country Boat Transport, Inc.
23310 Lillehei Avenue
Hastings, MN 55033
651-437-2454
boatjockey@aol.com

2) March - Mechanical - I had a bit of a laundry list from the survey so green lighted everything. There was low compression on the 7.4 horizons but I had heard this could happen when they sat around awhile. Unfortunately, that wasn't the case. Major work that was done included:
1) replace risers, manifolds
2) valve job
3) new motor mounts
4) new water heater with bypass for heat while underway
5) two new starters
6) rebuilt two pumps
7-23) not writing them all down
Total price to basically bring everything up to new or "like new" about 18k. This is about what I thought I might pay worst case scenario but had hopes as I mentioned that the valve jobs wouldn't be required. I will say that Blue Lagoon was great to work with especially the service manager Dave and the price was a fair value for the work done. Even then, writing a check for that amount of money isn't my idea of a good time. Did I mention that I got a great price on the boat?

http://www.bluelagoonmarine.com/storage.html

3)March - I decided to replace all of my canvas and add a mooring cover. I switched from tan to blue. Partly because every 380 of this vintage on the lake seems to be tan and partly because I am changing the color scheme to go with the boat name (wolverine dream as in maize and blue). I went with sunbrella material in captain's navy which is what was on my 300 too. The price for all of this was about 4800 which is pretty steep but could have been cut substantially had I not wanted both camper and mooring. The work seemed to be good quality, but a couple of things didn't thrill me. For one the port corner of the canvas at the stern didn't have the hold down bungee attached far enough down to allow you to attach the hold down without folding the canvas under. The posts for the bungees ( I prefer the elastic instead of snaps at the stern to give the canvas a little play) were screwed directly into the aft locker. The screws penetrating the locker had no backing to protect anyone from getting a nasty scratch as they opened the locker to remove fenders or other items. Maybe a detail item but still surprised me. They have to return once all of the interior panels are closed up after the wire runs are complete. I will see about having these items looked to and have a better sense of their service level.

4) Not started yet - scheduled for the last week of April

5) Removing the 15" frig tv in the cabin. I found a nice description and some pictures around how to remove this tv including a discussion on "christmas trees" used to hold the trim on to the refrigerator cabinet. I followed the advice dilligently, prying away at the trim with more and more force until "POP" the trim came up but was held on with "FOUR WOOD SCREWS". Apparently the 1999 had no christmas trees. I ended up pulling a half dozen screws from the refrigerator door frame and slid the frig onto a couple of pieces of 4x4's that were sitting around the boat yard. From there I removed the screws holding the trim (or what HAD been holding the trim). I also removed four screws that were holding a mounting plate (made of wood) onto the cabinet. I will take some pics of this over the weekend. Once the tv was removed and unplugged from a 110ac outlet I saw that the hole remaining had no back and opened to the hull and wiring. I decided the best way to deal with this and to lend some additional support to what I hoped would be an articulating flat screen mount would be to make an insert box. I stopped by Lowes and bought some melamine shelving. I had them make the square cuts for me (which suprising they still do) for the sides of the unit.
Unfortunately the hole in the cabinetry isn't square at the top but slanted. I was able to make an accomodation for this and had another wider piece of melamine board at my house which I cut for the back. I hole sawed a 1.5 inch hole in the back and mounted two latches so I could get into the unfinished area if necessary. The resulting box is about the perfect size for my inverter so scratch that off the list. I also found two articulating mounts online which if they work well (when they arrive) I will detail out on a later post.
total cost for this around 12 dollars for wood and latches, old black spray paint from the garage and a 20 dollar mount

6) Inverter - Ebay purchase, 3000 watts (really 2400 continuous) from sima for 199 plus free shipping. Not installed yet

7) Dash - Using Scott from Vector. He was great on the communications side and looking forward to seeing the work when it arrives this week. More to follow then

8) Entertainment - wow, where to start. Pimping your ride can sound like a great idea but don't attempt all of this without the pros. Andy(Drew) Wiatrack and Shawn Hayes at sensation design group in Minnesota. While most of the time they do custom theaters and home automation they also do marine applications including just finishing a 150 foot yacht in WI (for its FL owner). My boat was small potatoes for them and with the required programming for crestron it made sense to use the pros. There would be nothing worse than spending the money for the projects only to have a nightmare of an installation. These guys know what they are doing so I was more than happy to dole out the funds to get this part of the show right. While it is only half done, I can already tell it will be top notch. To keep my costs down I did procure items that are no longer in production (for the most part) from online (for online read this as ebay).
drew@sensationdesigngroup.com
More pics and more of a story here later.

The speakers and subwoofers came from sonic electronix. The kenwood subwoofers seemed to have the durability and ower that I needed and the jbl's were an upgrade over the speakers currently installed. The only issue was sonic shipped the first five pairs of jbl's and backordered the other two pair. The back orders came in quickly.

www.Sonicelectronix.com

1. Kenwood KFC-W254MRW: 2 @ $69.99
2. JBL Marine MS6200: 5 @ $79.99

Well duty calls so that is all I have time for now but more pics and information to follow soon
 
Re: Official 380 Thread - oil pressure gauge

anyone have an extra oil pressure gauge for sale. Mine needs a teleflex with the chrome bezel. The face is black and the lettering is white with green below. Unfortunately fp and glskipper don't have them anymore :(

thanks
 
I got mine directly from Teleflex. I gave them the Sea Ray Part number, and they sent me replacement gauges.
 
Neutral Switch Replacement on 380
Previously posted in maintenance forum w/ little response..My 2002 380 w/8.1s has an intermittent problem with the port engine neutral switch. The shifter has to be rocked several times thru FWD/N/REV until I am able to start the engine. Sounds to me like the neutral switch.

Can someone tell me the location of the switch and what it looks like. If you have changed one out, were did you purchase a replacement?
 
How do you know it's the neutral switch? The reason I ask, is that I had a starting problem, and after trying several things, I discovered it was the start/stop rocker switch.

Don
 
If someone thinks about it, and doesn't mind, could I get a picture of the crossbar for your dual battery hold downs? I bought mine used and the battery hold downs are gone. The battery trays are bumped together in groups of two and seem to be secured to the hull (making it impossible to run a strap underneath. There are "J" hook ends on the outer edges of both trays and it looks like I can put a bracket over both batteries but I have looked all over the internet for a dual crossbar, without success. In the 380 parts manual, it shows a part number 802124 as a 16" aluminum battery bracket, but I can't find any pictures or examples. I was thinking about making something out of Seaboard, but dont think it has enough structural rigidity. Perhaps I could use a piece of aluminum "u" channel and drill some outer holes, but would really prefer factory if possible.
 
Here is a picture of my batteries.
 

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Exactly what I needed. Thank you!
 
Does anyone have any recommendations on how to get the cabin steps clean? My 380 has the stair treads made of vinyl? with round raised dots. I try to clean them regularly but color is off in the traffic areas. Any suggestions?
 
Has the color faded or is it just dirty?

If it's ground in dirt, try a little softscrub, and then but a non-slippery coating over it. Woody wax comes to mind.

I did this on mine after I bought it, and it worked.
 
Has anyone attempted to replace the cabin steps on a 380 with wood ones?
 
Are you still in need of canvas? I know a guy that has a full factory set from Sea Ray in tan with isenglass and everything. Never been installed. Looking to move it.
 
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