Official 380 Thread

[osd9]

......Currently it gets right up on plane and is just pushing going beyond 4800 rpm. The 23 pitch should get me to around 4600 rpm and in the middle of the range. Of course this depends on the cup as well and if these truely are a 23 pitch prop.....

If you are currently pitched right at the top of the spec, bordering underpropped, but not, AND the boat get's on plane nicely and performs well at cruise, why would you want to play with it any further? It just doesn't seem to be something you need to do anything about....unless you just want to spend money.

If you are properly propped to start with, and you want to cruise a little faster, then just give it a little more throttle. Your motors won't be overloaded and they can take a few more RPMs no problem. But, once you add pitch, you will add load. As the season progresses, you may add a few more passengers, experience a little bottom growth and put some extra stuff onboard.....then you will be also adding extra load to the motors.

...The 38's with the 8.1 came with 21x22.5 and a 21 x23 prop setup so this I feel will probably work out for the better. .......

Are you talking of the 380DA or 38DA?

If you are talking about the 380DA, then you need to confirm what was the trans ratio on the 380DA with 8.1s compared to the trans ratio on the 380DA with 7.4s before you can make a contention that it will work out for the better on both boats....not to mention the different characteristics of the motors themselves....i.e. HP and Torque curves.

If you are talking about the 38DA, then you are talking about two completely different boats.

My 2002 380 with 8.1s had both props propped alike at 21 X 23. My neghbors 2006 38DA came with two props propped differently, as you stated above.

 

[Searay Chuck]

Last season 2 days before I was taking a trip with the boat I hit a log and bent 1 blade on my starboard prop. No spare set of props so in the water I go, remove it and take to the prop shop who fixed it while I waited. Not always going to happen so when I came across the set on ebay for $600 buy it now and looking like new it was a no brainer to pick up a spare set that I've always carried on my boats. With scuba gear on board as well as the tools for the job I can change a set out in less than 30 minutes anywhere anytime.

 

[dc380]

Chuck

Which prop puller do you have that allows you to pull the prop while underwater?

 

[Searay Chuck]

This is what I use and works pretty good.


PRO-PULL PRO PULL 113 PROP PULLER
Item #: PPF-113 - (3/4” - 2”) Shaft diameter Versatile propeller puller PRO-PULL Versatile propeller puller is designed to remove 2, 3, most 4 and some 5 blade propellers on inboard shafts ranging from 3/4” - 2.” It’s made of high strength heat-treated alloy steel and...
[more info...]

Availability: Special Order Item
Retail: $325.00

Price: $256.00

 

[dc380]

thanks Chuck

The Pro-Pull 113 is much bigger then the one I used, which didn't have the leverage this one appears to have.

 

[donnie]

where are the fuses located for the bilge pumps on a 50 sedan bridge. the pumps are located next to the engine strainers in the engine room. the rocker arm switch does not have any power therefore i assume a fuse is blown and i manuely try to turn on, no power.

 

[quality time]

Donnie - you might have better luck posting this in the Sport Yacht section. This thread is specifically for 380 Sundancer's so you're question probably won't get answered here.

 

[Mystic Dreamer]

Earlier in this thread I posted pics of the new Raymarine A50 I added in place of the old RN300. Today I replaced the old ST60 with a new ST70, replaced the old black ICOM M602 with a new M604 and also added a Raymarine Sirius weather module to the E80. All is networked through SeaTalk so I can view/control almost anything on any screen. Although I had everything installed by a certified Raymarine tech, the swap of the ST60 for the ST70 was very simple- the ST70 even includes a cable that adapts to the old SeaTalk systems. Here are some pictures:

Brian

 

[dc380]

Brian

Nice job! Did you use the old panels or buy new ones and cut the new equipment into them?

How did you get the A50 onto the Seatalk network?
I replace the RN300 with a A50, but I never successfull got it on the Seatalk bus.

Dave

 

[JediJD]

My new hero! Nice work. I am just starting to look at this stuff. I did the structural stuff...B744 transducer, Raystar 125 and DSM300, but I am afraid I'll have to start digging into the meat before I'm happy.

 

[Mystic Dreamer]

Brian

Nice job! Did you use the old panels or buy new ones and cut the new equipment into them?

How did you get the A50 onto the Seatalk network?
I replace the RN300 with a A50, but I never successfull got it on the Seatalk bus.

Dave

Dave: The panels were replaced when I added the A50- about a year ago. Scott Cambra from Vector Imaging made the news ones, and I highly recommend him. I have close up pictures earlier in this thread.

As far as the A50 on the Seatalk bus, I am unsure how they did it- As I mentioned, all of the installations were done by a Raymarine tech here in St. Pete.

 

[quality time]

Looks good Brian! I'm getting ready to give Scott the go ahead on my new panel in the next few days. Now you've got me thinking about ditching that crappy RN300, darn you...

 

[Pseudomind]

Clarion Stereo XMD1 and 6 Disk CD changer, If one removes five or six screws holding the panel which these two items are mounted in, will it all slide out together, or is there some manner in which the stereo and the CD changed have to be removed first?

I have a new stereo I wish to install and will be removing the CD changer all together.

Thanks

Howard

 

[Southpaw II]

Clarion Stereo and 6 Disk CD changer, If one removes five or six screws holding the panel which these two items are mounted in, will it all slide out together, or is there some manner in which the stereo and the CD changed have to be removed first?

I have a new stereo I wish to install and will be removing the CD changer all together.

Thanks

Howard

Take out the screws, and remove the cover. This will expose the Radio and the CD changer that are mounted on brackets.

 

[dc380]

Thanks Brian

The reason I asked, was I wanted to be able to run the autopilot from the A50, and leave the RL80 for radar.

Do you know if you can control your autopilot from the A50 since it is connected to the Seatalk bus.

Dave

 

[Southpaw II]

Dumb question....but I bet someone has done this.

You know those transducer plugs in the bilge that are located in the center, forward of the engines? One of them is for depth and water temp, and the other is for speed. I don't know what the life expectancy is for the "paddle wheel" speed indicator, but mine has quit working. I realize it's not accurate, and I do use my GPS anyway, but I would prefer that it work. I figure it just need cleaning....so here are 3 alternatives:

1. Wait till the boat comes out of the water for bottom paint or to repair some sort of mishap. Hopefully, this won't be for a few years. Bottom paint here lasts 5-6 years at least.

2. Wait a few months and swim underneath and try to free up the wheel. I don't even know if this might work or not.

3. Since the plugs for these holes are attached, unscrew the sensor while the boat is in the water, and swap the plug back into the hole, ever so quickly. Clean the paddle wheel, and then swap them back.

So, if you remove this plug while the boat is in the water, how much water floods in? Does it flow heavily, or does it gush 4 feet into the air?

I'll bet someone has done this, and now is the time to admit it if it went horribly wrong.

 

[osd9]

The water will gush some....I don't know how much, bacause I never did it. I chose to put on the scuba gear and clean the wheel in the water....I made that decision after looking directly above the wheel in the bilge....there is that big black panel with all the DC breakers...and if you feel under that panel, there is no bottom...the water might be able to 'gush' right under it and, in my situation, soak every breaker/wire with salt water. I determined it wasn't an emergency and wasn't worth the chance. Beside...scuba is more fun anyway.

Invariably, there will a single critter growning on one of the paddles...just enogh to foul the wheel.

 

[Southpaw II]

The water will gush some....I don't know how much, bacause I never did it. I chose to put on the scuba gear and clean the wheel in the water....I made that decision after looking directly above the wheel in the bilge....there is that big black panel with all the DC breakers...and if you feel under that panel, there is no bottom...the water might be able to 'gush' right under it and, in my situation, soak every breaker/wire with salt water. I determined it wasn't an emergency and wasn't worth the chance. Beside...scuba is more fun anyway.

Invariably, there will a single critter growning on one of the paddles...just enogh to foul the wheel.

That may be enough to deter me. The only growth thing we deal with is algae. I guess it might be like opening a seacock without a hose on it.

 

[quality time]

One of those two thru hulls has a flapper inside that will close with the water pressure. I have both of mine out this winter but can't remember if it's the speed or depth transducer. I don't know if I would totally trust it but if it is indeed the speedo one it would buy you time to get the plug in.

 

[Southpaw II]

One of those two thru hulls has a flapper inside that will close with the water pressure. I have both of mine out this winter but can't remember if it's the speed or depth transducer. I don't know if I would totally trust it but if it is indeed the speedo one it would buy you time to get the plug in.

Just ocurred to me that Sea Ray might know something about this.

I have become more reliant on this forum for info than the OEM....I like that.