Official 370 Sundancer thread

tommyadrian5 said:
Has anyone replaced their coffeemaker? Mine seems to have crapped the bed and to compound it, now whenever the outlets are powered up the unit is constitutively on (ie. hot) which I don't like for obvious reasons. While I plan on removing the two screws and trying to unplug it i was wondering if anybody knew of a good replacement or had found other use for that space.
Click to expand...

I've replaced mine twice now, both with eBay purchases of the exact same model. I was never able to find a replacement fit exactly. The later models (mine is '98) have a filler piece since later coffee makers were smaller than the earlier models. Check some of the pictures on my 370sundancer web site.

You might find a way to make a filler piece to fit anything new that could be used.
 
I think mine is the later model one, it looks exactly like the one you have now.

Just so it isn't a fire hazard, if I pull it out is there an outlet behind it or is it directly wired into the electric system? The only two screws holding it in appear to be the ones next to the pot, am I correct?
 
tommyadrian5 said:
I think mine is the later model one, it looks exactly like the one you have now.

Just so it isn't a fire hazard, if I pull it out is there an outlet behind it or is it directly wired into the electric system? The only two screws holding it in appear to be the ones next to the pot, am I correct?
Click to expand...

Mine had two screws holding it in, one inside next to the pot and the other inside next to the water tank. It slides right out and there is an outlet behind it. Easy peasy to replace with a similar unit. Might take some extra work to replace with something different.

Gene
 
Hey Folks,

I'm having a serious problem with a very wet rug on the floor of the rear seating area that just started. The mid-ship A/C unit seems to be producing a ton of condensation and I believe the water is overflowing the drain pan, running down the back of the built in 2 drawer unit and onto the rug area. The storage areas underneath the seats in that rear seating area are all dry and I don't believe or can't see any leaks from the hoses that feeding the A/C units with water for cooling. The drain pan overflow maybe clogged but for the life of me I can't see it and/or get to it unlike the A/C unit under the master bunk in the bow where it's all exposed. The amount of condensation may be another issue as it's been hot and humid here in the Clearwater Beach, FL area but I think the main issue is the accummulated water/condensation in the drain pan is not draining to wherever it supposed to drain to. Getting tired of vaccuming up the water in the drain pan and soaked rug.

Any suggestions on the location of the drain outlet and/or getting to it would be welcomed before I call in the costly "experts".
 
phil_p said:
Hey Folks,

I'm having a serious problem with a very wet rug on the floor of the rear seating area that just started. The mid-ship A/C unit seems to be producing a ton of condensation and I believe the water is overflowing the drain pan, running down the back of the built in 2 drawer unit and onto the rug area. The storage areas underneath the seats in that rear seating area are all dry and I don't believe or can't see any leaks from the hoses that feeding the A/C units with water for cooling. The drain pan overflow maybe clogged but for the life of me I can't see it and/or get to it unlike the A/C unit under the master bunk in the bow where it's all exposed. The amount of condensation may be another issue as it's been hot and humid here in the Clearwater Beach, FL area but I think the main issue is the accummulated water/condensation in the drain pan is not draining to wherever it supposed to drain to. Getting tired of vaccuming up the water in the drain pan and soaked rug.

Any suggestions on the location of the drain outlet and/or getting to it would be welcomed before I call in the costly "experts".
Click to expand...

If it is truly the AC condensation overflow, check the hose that runs to the sump/shower pump in the center floor hatch. That is where the water supposed to go. See if water is flowing down to that pump and if not, then the hose is definitely clogged. I would be at first suspicious of the hot water heater, but you said the storage areas under the aft cushions are dry.

If you pull out the drawers in the storage are next to the couch, you should be able to get to the drain pan better than going through the access panel in the floor of the aft closet.

See if that helps.

Gene
 
Gene,

Thanks for the quick response. As usual you're right on top of all things SeaRay. I'm very appreciative of your expertise.

I remembered the shower sump pump set up as I wrote my comment yesterday and checked it out late yesterday afternoon. Sure enough something not working w/ that elongated 4 or 5" x 1/2" triangular junction box/fitting for the A/C condensate from the 2 A/C units. The condensate line from the forward A/C unit seems to run through the triangular fitting and into the sump pump setup but the mid A/C line just ends at the lower point of the fitting. I guess there's some kind of suction set up to pull the mid-A/C unit's condensate up through the triangular fitting and into the sump pump box for discharge. The current setup leads to think the sump pump is not working. Seems like there could be a simpler set up like a "Y" fitting for the 2 condensate lines doing directly into the sump pump rather than this one outlet gizmo.

Pulled hose off the mid A/C condensate line and it flowed slowly w/ some gunk. Will clean it all up this morning and see if I can check out the sump pump somehow to see if it's working properly. The sump pump unit is seems sealed so I'm wondering if there's some vacuum setup. Unfortunately, there was also a few inches of water in the sump pump bilge area. I had to operate the float switch manually to get that 1000 gal/hr bilge pump to kick it but at 1000 g/hr it sure didn't seem to be pumping the water out very fast even though there was discharge. I'll check the float switch and may replace it. Of course it's underneath the floor overhang and hard to get to and the screws seem unbelievably tight. Can't ever see what kind of screws they used. One would think they'd put bilge pumps and float switches out where you can daily maintain them, especially when there's lots of room.

Phil
 
Phil,

After getting my 370, I found that the sump filter was clogged and the sump float switch was bad. Sump water was overflowing into the compartment. Considering the location of the sump box and the other bilge pump at the lowest point in the cabin, I felt that they were critical safety/security resources of the boat. I replaced the sump switch and pump and the switch for the 1,000 GPH secondary pump. The secondary pump switch had a typical Rule-a-Matic toggle without a cover (probably not original) that could easily get tangled with anything stored in the compartment. I replaced it with a Johnson 3615 that is completely enclosed to preclude any foreign matter from affecting the switch's operation.

It is a bit difficult to get to the secondary switch location but, in my opinion, it's important to ensure that the switch-pump combination will work correctly if/when called upon.
 
Maker's Marc said:
Has anyone ever taken off the right side of the helm seat ?? I have some rotting wood under the vinyl that I need to replace but I am not sue how to remove that seat. Any advise is appreciated.
Click to expand...

I assume you are talking about the far starboard side of the helm saat since the bench is split into two parts. If you have the power seat option, it requires disconnection of the motor under the seat in the storage compartment and then sliding the unit as far forward as you can until you are work it off the tracks.

If it is not a power seat, the bolts are reached from the same place as the motor under the storage compartment.

I rebuilt my seats with high grade marine plywood and reused the foam and vinyl. Check here:
http://www.370sundancer.com/OddsnEnds/photos-278/
for my rebuild and here:
http://www.370sundancer.com/OddsnEnds/photos-278/
for another view.

Gene
 
Electronics Question - I currently have a Raytheon Radar and Lowrance Globalmap Chartplotter. The radar is non-functional - powers up but does not seem to be receiving any signal from the radome/sensor. The chartplotter works as well, but is old as hell, not user friendly, and I am always in envy of some of the newer models at West Marine.

For people with more modern systems, what is your current setup. Ideally I would like to replace the radar panel on the left of my helm (in the fiberglass panel) with a new raymarine unit, hopefully one that can salvage my current sensor. I have the current chartplotter in a navpod on the dash and would probably just keep that for a backup and line of sight speed/heading stuff.

I like the idea of a combo chartplotter, radar, sonar system, does anybody have one that they like? I think i would like to stay with raymarine to keep my existing radome and easy integration with my raytheon autopilot.
 
tommyadrian5 said:
Electronics Question - I currently have a Raytheon Radar and Lowrance Globalmap Chartplotter. The radar is non-functional - powers up but does not seem to be receiving any signal from the radome/sensor. The chartplotter works as well, but is old as hell, not user friendly, and I am always in envy of some of the newer models at West Marine.

For people with more modern systems, what is your current setup. Ideally I would like to replace the radar panel on the left of my helm (in the fiberglass panel) with a new raymarine unit, hopefully one that can salvage my current sensor. I have the current chartplotter in a navpod on the dash and would probably just keep that for a backup and line of sight speed/heading stuff.

I like the idea of a combo chartplotter, radar, sonar system, does anybody have one that they like? I think i would like to stay with raymarine to keep my existing radome and easy integration with my raytheon autopilot.
Click to expand...

My 1997 370 had a Garmin 2010c when I bought it. I replaced it with a Garmin 5212 touchscreen which fit in the same location once the cutout was enlarged (great fun!). I am very satisfied with the new Garmin and it has the advantage of being a combo unit that can integrate radar, sonar, GPS, plotting as well as fuel and engine inputs so you can add as many toys as you want!
 
tommyadrian5 said:
Electronics Question - I currently have a Raytheon Radar and Lowrance Globalmap Chartplotter. The radar is non-functional - powers up but does not seem to be receiving any signal from the radome/sensor. The chartplotter works as well, but is old as hell, not user friendly, and I am always in envy of some of the newer models at West Marine.

For people with more modern systems, what is your current setup. Ideally I would like to replace the radar panel on the left of my helm (in the fiberglass panel) with a new raymarine unit, hopefully one that can salvage my current sensor. I have the current chartplotter in a navpod on the dash and would probably just keep that for a backup and line of sight speed/heading stuff.

I like the idea of a combo chartplotter, radar, sonar system, does anybody have one that they like? I think i would like to stay with raymarine to keep my existing radome and easy integration with my raytheon autopilot.
Click to expand...

I replaced an old Northstar 951 with a Simrad system, 12" NSS in the same spot you are thinking and added 3G radar, best investment i have made so far.
 
CLC3 said:
Phil,

After getting my 370, I found that the sump filter was clogged and the sump float switch was bad. Sump water was overflowing into the compartment. Considering the location of the sump box and the other bilge pump at the lowest point in the cabin, I felt that they were critical safety/security resources of the boat. I replaced the sump switch and pump and the switch for the 1,000 GPH secondary pump. The secondary pump switch had a typical Rule-a-Matic toggle without a cover (probably not original) that could easily get tangled with anything stored in the compartment. I replaced it with a Johnson 3615 that is completely enclosed to preclude any foreign matter from affecting the switch's operation.

It is a bit difficult to get to the secondary switch location but, in my opinion, it's important to ensure that the switch-pump combination will work correctly if/when called upon.
Click to expand...

Chip & Gene,

Thanks for the comments and advice. Sorry for the delayed responding; weddings and holidays seem to come at the same time.

I got down and cleaned out the shower sump which also takes the condensate from both the forward and and midship A/C units. There appeared to be at least 10 years of gunk accumulated in the lines. I'm surprised I just started having the overflow issue w/ that mid-ship A/C unit. I tried to remove and clean to the switch that operates the 1000 GPH pump but it's tucked under the floor board and hard to access plus the philips heads are stripped. The switch works if I operated manually but I'm assuming it also is full of gunk. To get it out I going to have to cut around the housing around the screws to expose them so I can get a pair of pliers around the crews and twist them out. Piss poor design in my humble opinion and that goes for the condensate drain set up as well.

Good boating to all.

Phil
 
>I am going to have to cut around the housing around the screws to expose them..

I find that a Dremel with a cutting blade is useful for "destructive removal". In other words, you don't care about the condition of the giz you're removing when it's done - you just want to cut it up and out so it can be replaced. The mounting location for the switch and pump is difficult to access under the edge of the flooring. There is some logic to it though - you can't accidentally drop anything on the pump/switch from above nor consciously store anything in the compartment that would interfere with it. Keeps your chiropractor in business after you work on it too... :smt001
 
CLC3 said:
My 1997 370 had a Garmin 2010c when I bought it. I replaced it with a Garmin 5212 touchscreen which fit in the same location once the cutout was enlarged (great fun!). I am very satisfied with the new Garmin and it has the advantage of being a combo unit that can integrate radar, sonar, GPS, plotting as well as fuel and engine inputs so you can add as many toys as you want!
Click to expand...

I have a 98' 370 that I want to upgrade to something like the 5212.....any chance you have a pic of it installed?
 
Has anyone replaced the forward stateroom bed mattress to something more comfortable? Something a little softer for the wife would be great. Any suggestions?
 
It's a Shore Thing! said:
Has anyone replaced the forward stateroom bed mattress to something more comfortable? Something a little softer for the wife would be great. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Agree, mine is like a rock. I've been thinking of just putting a 2 or 3" Novafoam or similar type mattress pad over it, cut to size. Easy and inexpensive solution but you're adding height to an already high platform.
 
Soooooooo....I just completed a roughly 2 week voyage on this thread during which I read every single post.
Awesome stuff!!!!
I'm trying to convince myself that I'm sane, but after never having owned so much as a row boat before, I just acquired a 50% ownership stake in a 1999 370 DA.
The cockpit needs some cleaning up and upgrading but otherwise she's in fine shape. Looking forward to a fun experience!!!
Happy boating my 370 brothers!!!
 
370 'Dancer said:
Gene AKA Rubber ducky, had some good things to say bout Handcraft Mattress Co.
Click to expand...

Handcraft is really, really good. We opted for an innerspring mattress and they made two sets of fitted sheets from some flats we sent them as part of the deal. I am not a deep sleeper, but when I sleep on that mattress on the boat, I forget where I am when I wake up as it is just like sleeping at home, maybe better.

Gene
 
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