Official 370 Sundancer thread

Just got confirmation on the previous owners. This boat spent 10-12 years on a lift and the last two in the water. It has been out for many years though. It has 250+ hours on the motors and was babied. I put a deposit down and the broker is preparing to prep it. They're going to go through the boat at their expense, really the estate of the seller. Surveyor is on the way. It pays to ask around about a boat. Once I got the right information, MANY very trusted sources confirmed the care of the boat. I am trusting them on this.
 
Surveyor is hull only. Very reputable. The engines will be very well cared for and are known by some excellent mechanics in the area. I'm hoping to pull some strings and get a ride along from a local racing motor builder before I take delivery. The shop that is brokering the boat has come with very high regards from someone I trust. I'll keep you all posted as I hope to have great reviews for all parties involved but I'll leave them out of it until I'm floating. The engines will be well inspected prior to delivery but not truly surveyed. The guys they have at this shop are very good so I'm going to believe their assessment.
 
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Hi Guys,
Boat splashed last Friday, very nice day all went well except for a higher temp reading on starboard motor only under high rpms, thinking impellers which are long overdue!
Here are some pics, dont mind the date I have to fix that on the camera

Marty
ST Clair Shores, MI

2012_BOAT_IN_hOIST.jpg
 

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Ok, I have a question on interior LED bulb replacement. I contacted Cantalupi about replacement bulbs and this is the response I received back from them and wanted to know if anyone has had a problem with the replacement LED bulbs.

Thank you for contacting us. Unfortunately Cantalupi Lighting has deemed LED replacement/conversion bulbs not suitable for our quality standards and therefore cannot recommend any substitutes or avenues towards that solution. The following is an excerpt from a Cantalupi engineer:
LED G4 bulbs from China have been flooding the after-market in the last few years.
The light output is minimal comparing to a proper fixture, they last a fraction of the declared time because they cannot dissipate heat (the halogen fixtures are designed to contain the heat of the bulb not to dissipate it) and they are not protected against radio-frequencies.
Our products are certified compass-safe and comply with the electromagnetic conducted and radiated interference regulations. The LED bulbs are not.
I saw with my eyes melted fixtures and radios not working properly when these cheap solutions were on board.
Do not recommend any of such products.
Because of this we recommend switching the light into an LED fixture (sometimes our halogen lights have a direct replacement to their LED version).
Do you know what lights you have on board and how many? Maybe we can offer a sort of "Refit package" to help you convert to a more efficient LED system.
Thank you,
Account Manager
Cantalupi USA
tel:727-462-2526
e-Fax:727-683-9720
Sales@cantalupiusa.com
 
I don't have any experience with the G4 LED bulbs, but I would question Cantalupi's response regarding the notion that LED bulbs don't dissipate the heat. I thought by the very nature of their design, LED's don't get hot because they don't draw enough current? My initial thought is that Cantalupi responds this way in order to keep sales consistent.

Doug
 
douglee25 said:
I don't have any experience with the G4 LED bulbs, but I would question Cantalupi's response regarding the notion that LED bulbs don't dissipate the heat. I thought by the very nature of their design, LED's don't get hot because they don't draw enough current? My initial thought is that Cantalupi responds this way in order to keep sales consistent.

Doug
Click to expand...

I didn't think they dissipated heat either. I replaced the ones in the cock pit and also the ones on the stairs with no problem, but they are festoon bulbs.
 
Ok..I need to replace my inlet on the shorepower (Marinco). I removed all the screws and it won't budge..Looks like I need to cut the silicone out and hopefully that will loosen it up. Is there anything else that i need to do if that doesn't do the trick?
 
cruiser said:
Ok..I need to replace my inlet on the shorepower (Marinco). I removed all the screws and it won't budge..Looks like I need to cut the silicone out and hopefully that will loosen it up. Is there anything else that i need to do if that doesn't do the trick?
Click to expand...

Yes, cut the silicone, that should be it. If you pop out the microwave you will see behind the shore power.
 
Russ...what bulbs did you use? Seems to me there are a ton of different opinions on this.


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Thanks Russ, Do you remember where your purchased them and what type of bulbs did you use. By the way congrets on your new 460DA.
 
Yes, I bought them at Defender- making several trips and most were Imtra I believe. The only mod I had to di was to drill out the flush mounted fixtures to fit the LED, have to be careful, they like to self destruct.
Thanks Connie!
 
So I took the new to me 95 370 out for its shakedown today. What a great boat!

I've been driving stern drives for 10 years, 8 of them with twins. It's a different feel for sure. The engine sync is nice, but I still like the feel of 2 throttles. I'm not sure how much I'll use that. Probably longer trips to a mooring point would be a good time.

I found that a bow thruster is your best friend, especially when the wind is blowing you off the dock! 3 try and I was in the slip. I think some practice on a calm day will help.

At any rate I feel,I'm "officially" a Sea Ray 370 guy now. This forum certainly helps!

Mark

08092a6c.jpg



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Hello fellow 370 owners,

Have any of you removed/replaced the aft air conditioning unit? There does not look to be an easy way to get it out where it sits under the aft locker and behind the drawers. Looks like I would need to remove the entire cabinet where the drawers are to get the AC unit out. Any tips from someone who's done this before?

Thanks,
Jack
1995 370
 
JackH said:
Hello fellow 370 owners,

Have any of you removed/replaced the aft air conditioning unit? There does not look to be an easy way to get it out where it sits under the aft locker and behind the drawers. Looks like I would need to remove the entire cabinet where the drawers are to get the AC unit out. Any tips from someone who's done this before?

Thanks,
Jack
1995 370
Click to expand...

I replaced that unit 1 1/2 years ago after getting a great deal on a fall boat show leftover. There is a bit of work to get it out.

First you have to remove the two drawers below the mid-cabin closet. If you look behind the drawers, you can see the unit. Then in the floor of the mid-cabin closet, you will see a panel that can be removed above the unit. The unit comes out after you remove the drawers guides in front of the unit. There is also a removable panel in the side of that closet which also gives access to the vents and other connections. The control module and wiring is located under the settee, screwed to the wall of the drawer unit beside it. Wiring is snaked all around with the control thermostat mounted in the aft side of that cabinet. But you do not have to remove the cabinet to get all this out.

My replacement unit has more BTUs and is smaller and lighter (thank god) so it was much easier to install than to remove the old unit. Turns out the old unit was perfectly fine, just needed a recharge in case anyone is interested.

I think Ive got some picts up on 370sundancer.com. I try to locate the directly link and if not let me see about getting some picts up there for you.

Gene
 
Hello everyone, quick topic change. I am looking to mount a flat screen TV on the aft bulkhead in front of the back cabin, and did (I think) a pretty thorough search on here. I was looking at Angel Anne's project on page 45 of this thread and am looking to do the same thing, and sent a PM.

How do you get access to the backside of that bulkhead for mounting the TV bracket? Does anyone know if there is a power supply back there, and if not, how do I get power to that area? I guess I have the same question for routing the cable/co-ax to the same location.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thank you in advance,

Bryan - Shea's Lounge
 
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