Official 370 Sundancer thread

New (to me) 1998 370 DA owner here. Recently traded 1990 310EC.

I am working ion getting some things cleaned up, and have a couple questions for other 370 owners.

1. I am chasing down some leaks that tend to keep the bilge moist. I am getting water coming from the two bolts that hold the arch on the port side. The bolts are visible in the locker behind the rear port side seat (look up). I checked all penetrations in the arch and am pretty sure the leak is at the decorative plate with Sea Ray logo on vertical portion (outside) of arch. How is this plate secured? If it is screwed there is no access from inside the arch to get at the screws; unless it is behind the vinyl upholstered piece that has a speaker in it. How is this part removed?

2. Continuing with leaks I have dripping coming down the transom wall in the bilge. This happens when it rains. It is the hull/deck joint. The rub rail is not caulked on the top (it was but most caulk is now gone). What is the best fix for this? Although a bead of silicone caulk on the top of the rub rail may work, it seems like i should be doing something to beef up the integrity of this joint.

Thanks for any help.
 
Sea Ray Mark

If I read correctly, your 1998 370 is for sale; I'm "between boats" and have been considering a 370 or 400. We are down sizing from a larger boat. Please get back to me with the specifics. Thank you. I assume it's ok to use this forum/thread for this type of correspondence.
 
Dale Santee said:
Sea Ray Mark

If I read correctly, your 1998 370 is for sale; I'm "between boats" and have been considering a 370 or 400. We are down sizing from a larger boat. Please get back to me with the specifics. Thank you. I assume it's ok to use this forum/thread for this type of correspondence.
Click to expand...
Call me 856-905-9567
 
jgoedd99 said:
New (to me) 1998 370 DA owner here. Recently traded 1990 310EC.

I am working ion getting some things cleaned up, and have a couple questions for other 370 owners.

1. I am chasing down some leaks that tend to keep the bilge moist. I am getting water coming from the two bolts that hold the arch on the port side. The bolts are visible in the locker behind the rear port side seat (look up). I checked all penetrations in the arch and am pretty sure the leak is at the decorative plate with Sea Ray logo on vertical portion (outside) of arch. How is this plate secured? If it is screwed there is no access from inside the arch to get at the screws; unless it is behind the vinyl upholstered piece that has a speaker in it. How is this part removed?

2. Continuing with leaks I have dripping coming down the transom wall in the bilge. This happens when it rains. It is the hull/deck joint. The rub rail is not caulked on the top (it was but most caulk is now gone). What is the best fix for this? Although a bead of silicone caulk on the top of the rub rail may work, it seems like i should be doing something to beef up the integrity of this joint.

Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...

Mine has leaked in both of these places too. The leak at the radar arch is comming from the joint were the arch meets the top of the gunnel. You need to caulk this joint from the windshield back. We I did it I loosened up on the bolts that hold the arch down to allow the caulk to get inbetween the two parts before retightening them. The leak in the transom is from the hull to deck joint and rub rail, try cauling the rub rail to the hull side. You will also get water leaking in at the engine room vent covers.
 
Thank you for the info on the ice maker. I was hoping to find a frig for the upstairs of the boat but can't seem to find any info. If anyone has any help as to a 110 frig for the 95 thu 98 370 da for the upstairs.
 
jc27 said:
Has anyone installed auto pilot in there 370 before im going to try with a buddy .I already installed the garmin fuel flo sensors and started the nema 2000 network in bilge and ran to my garmin 5212.Iwas hoping somebody has installed before and could give me advice where to put the pump etc in correct places photos whould be great .My auto pilot is also a garmin .:huh:
Click to expand...


I have not but I do have a 5212 and would like to know more about the fuel sensors, how did you install, difficulty, time, cost?
Also please share if you find out anything on the AP, I am interested in doing the same. Thanks!
 
37 Dancer said:
Welcome to the forum.......most 370DA's have icemakers in the cockpit area.....although some did have refers. If you want an icemaker to fit in that pre-cut location......its a... U-line model SP-18 ( in white ).......I just replaced mine last season for about $900.

http://www.u-line.com/products/product.cfm?p=34

Good Luck..........and enjoy the season.
Click to expand...

I always wondered about that, mine came with a freezer. I dont understand the thought process behind putting a freezer in the cockpit. :huh:
 
Thats Sea Ray for ya.......LOL.

Actually we love the ice maker....works out great being under the wet bar !!!....and the cooler behind the bar/sink is the best !
 
jgoedd99 said:
New (to me) 1998 370 DA owner here. Recently traded 1990 310EC.

I am working ion getting some things cleaned up, and have a couple questions for other 370 owners.

1. I am chasing down some leaks that tend to keep the bilge moist. I am getting water coming from the two bolts that hold the arch on the port side. The bolts are visible in the locker behind the rear port side seat (look up). I checked all penetrations in the arch and am pretty sure the leak is at the decorative plate with Sea Ray logo on vertical portion (outside) of arch. How is this plate secured? If it is screwed there is no access from inside the arch to get at the screws; unless it is behind the vinyl upholstered piece that has a speaker in it. How is this part removed?

2. Continuing with leaks I have dripping coming down the transom wall in the bilge. This happens when it rains. It is the hull/deck joint. The rub rail is not caulked on the top (it was but most caulk is now gone). What is the best fix for this? Although a bead of silicone caulk on the top of the rub rail may work, it seems like i should be doing something to beef up the integrity of this joint.

Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...

1. I just had my arch off, and I am 99% sure that the oval plate is stuck on, or there are very small screws under the gold striping on the plate. I seriously doubt that this is your source. More along the lines of Jon's experience, you are probably getting water in from something on the TOP of the arch, or from the arch/deck joint. I'd check the top first. Any installed antenna, light, or radar that doesn't have caulk oozing from the edges, or screw holes should be suspect. If it's dripping from the bolts, then it came from above.

2. I haven't seen that (yet), but I would look into re-caulking the seam by removing the rub rail, at least enough to get product behind it. Chances are the PO used some monster cleaner to keep the transom area clean, and it dissolved the caulk.
 
Russ Calasant said:
Say it isnt so Mark!!!
Click to expand...

Mark's boat was the inspiration for the purchase of our own 370. Our boats share a rare feature; a bird's eye maple interior. I've only seen four 370s with that feature. Most of the 370s from that year are cherry or white laminate.

If i was in the market for a new boat, Mark's boat would be at the top of my list. Of course, Mark is entitled to the live out that saying about happy days and boat owners.

Gene
 
Guys, I've had my boat for about five years now and have always wanted to eventually end up with a 44' or 45' diesel Sundancer. My boat is for sale but I don't expect it to sell anytime soon. Most people are still looking to buy the repo's and the beat up boats that are being sold pretty cheap right now. My boat doesn't fall into that category so I'm ready to go another summer with my 370. I'm okay with that :smt038. Mark
 
Russ Calasant said:
I have not but I do have a 5212 and would like to know more about the fuel sensors, how did you install, difficulty, time, cost?
Also please share if you find out anything on the AP, I am interested in doing the same. Thanks!
Click to expand...

L installed the fuel Flo sensors just under the shut off valves for tank's very easy created nema 2000 network in bilge and ran cable to 5212 have not been out yet but they are showing up on the 5212 screen. We have not found anybody that's installed autopilot in a 370?
 
Sea Ray Mark said:
Guys, I've had my boat for about five years now and have always wanted to eventually end up with a 44' or 45' diesel Sundancer. My boat is for sale but I don't expect it to sell anytime soon. Most people are still looking to buy the repo's and the beat up boats that are being sold pretty cheap right now. My boat doesn't fall into that category so I'm ready to go another summer with my 370. I'm okay with that :smt038. Mark
Click to expand...

Good luck! - I have the same aspirations, just not anytime soon. I am very happpy with the 370, maybe when the economy shifts :smt001

jc27 said:
L installed the fuel Flo sensors just under the shut off valves for tank's very easy created nema 2000 network in bilge and ran cable to 5212 have not been out yet but they are showing up on the 5212 screen. We have not found anybody that's installed autopilot in a 370?
Click to expand...

Thats a great idea - any details? Cost, fitting type -pics?
 
jgoedd99 said:
New (to me) 1998 370 DA owner here. Recently traded 1990 310EC.

I am working ion getting some things cleaned up, and have a couple questions for other 370 owners.

1. I am chasing down some leaks that tend to keep the bilge moist. I am getting water coming from the two bolts that hold the arch on the port side. The bolts are visible in the locker behind the rear port side seat (look up). I checked all penetrations in the arch and am pretty sure the leak is at the decorative plate with Sea Ray logo on vertical portion (outside) of arch. How is this plate secured? If it is screwed there is no access from inside the arch to get at the screws; unless it is behind the vinyl upholstered piece that has a speaker in it. How is this part removed?

2. Continuing with leaks I have dripping coming down the transom wall in the bilge. This happens when it rains. It is the hull/deck joint. The rub rail is not caulked on the top (it was but most caulk is now gone). What is the best fix for this? Although a bead of silicone caulk on the top of the rub rail may work, it seems like i should be doing something to beef up the integrity of this joint.

Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...

The logo that are on the side of the arches are actually taped on. Passed winter, got some water in between the logo and the arch and then it dipped into the teens. The water froze and separated the logo from from the arch. I had thought it was bolted on . They use a double sided tape to hold it on.

Ted
 
Thanks for replies. Have made progress with irritating rain leaks. Caulking top of rub rail around the entire boat made a big difference in reducing drips along transom. I also pulled all the rub rail crews in the transom and caulked them (the big screws that screw the white rub rail to the boat). Also removed windshield foam screw covers, removed screws and caulked all screw holes. Flipped foam over (so newer looking flexible side was out) put it back in and calked the bottom (with clear silicone) of the foam. I also caulked around the decorative plates on the side of the arch (which it looks like I did not need to as they are double-sided taped on!). So waiting for the next good rain to see what is left to fix. Getting there.
 
Settling in....I need some help

Hey All:

Well, we've had "With Benefits" home for a couple weeks now. Have yet to really go out on her, but have spent a couple nights on dock meeting folks (awesome people) and cleaning and mending things. Also Admiral and I did some low speed handling practice. She's a DAMN good skipper!!

We are discovering that we need a few things. First: We need to buy the cushions for the salon sleeper area. They are just no where on the boat. Not worried about matching the current fabric since they'll only be used when the kids are sleeping, thus, covered by a sheet and snoozing offspring!!

The other thing we need is some suggestions on dealing with wood rot. The helm seat is TRASHED. Everytime we touch it, we drop 3 forests worth of rotting wood onto the floor. I looked in the 370Sundancers.com photo site and saw under the seats section, a project that nearly mirrors what I suspect I'll find when I get started. What I can't figure out is how much $$ it will cost to repair. The level of difficulty. Is it possible to even find a new seat for the boat rather than simply rebuild?

And finally, how do I make sure the water is turned on to the cockpit icemaker? I purchased this boat during the winter and didn't think about ice making. Mother nature had that well in hand this winter. :)

So, any help will be greatly appreciated.

For those who were following my transmission etc issue and asked about price. My mechanic was able to horse trade a few things and get a brand new transmission delivered for $3500. (Yes, I trust him that the tranny is new and not a bait n switch garbage) We replaced the fuel/water pump combination on the port engine (That part is STUPID expensive!!), the water pump on the starboard, impeller on the gen, did some trouble shooting on one of the bilge pumps and a couple other minor things. All told it was under $7k.....so much for the new GPS and camper canvas this season. At least I know mechanically, the boat is in better shape. I'll put the camper on the 2011 Fathers Day wish list!! :)

So, that's where "With Benefits" is today. Hopefully someone here will come thru with some cushions and seating advice.
 
Re: Settling in....I need some help

RobnBern said:
The other thing we need is some suggestions on dealing with wood rot. The helm seat is TRASHED. Everytime we touch it, we drop 3 forests worth of rotting wood onto the floor. I looked in the 370Sundancers.com photo site and saw under the seats section, a project that nearly mirrors what I suspect I'll find when I get started. What I can't figure out is how much $$ it will cost to repair. The level of difficulty. Is it possible to even find a new seat for the boat rather than simply rebuild?
Click to expand...

It seems my boat is suffering from the same problem and this year may be the year for that rebuild. I am not aware of any source for new seats short of some carpentry and recovering. I plan on building the frames from those photos and saving the original foam and vinyl. My only concern is stapling the vinyl to the starboard using the stainless staples. Never tried to do that before. But working with the starboard is better than working with wood.

RobnBern said:
And finally, how do I make sure the water is turned on to the cockpit icemaker?
Click to expand...

Inside the cabinet next to the cockpit ice maker that has a small tap and tubing to feed the ice maker. You can check that to see if it is connected. I made the mistake my first year with this boat (and having an ice maker) of turning off the fresh water pump when leaving the boat and that line froze solid. Once frozen, no water would not flow to the ice maker. I was looking at an expensive replacement when I decide to defrost and restart and it worked great. in fact, my wife believes it mocks us. We take out an ice cube and it makes ten more. Great unit.

Gene
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,219
Messages
1,428,826
Members
61,115
Latest member
Gardnersf
Back
Top