Official 370 Sundancer thread

belliswood said:
Hello All you 370 owners,

I need to know if there are any zinks used in the engines, generator and A/C units. My engines are closed fresh water (antifreeze) engines. If there are any used can you tell me what sizes I need and where they are located. I am also needing to flush out / descale the raw water systems. What is best to use and how is it applied.

Thank you all for your expertise...

Barry
Click to expand...

When I got my boat, I asked the exact same questions. I found out that there are no zincs in the engines or AC units, but there is a zinc in the generator. You will to crawl way back near the STBD exhaust and locate the heat exchanger on the generator. (It is at the bottom of the fan belt side of the engine.) There is a pencil zinc at the bottom of the heat exchanger that you can unbolt and change. Only zinc I could find in 8+ years owning my boat.

As far as flushing out the raw water, we've devised a system modeled after the old Thoroflush. It is essentially a ballcock shutoff drilled through the top of the Perko cap on the sea strainers. Then after closing off the intakes, we attach a hose to the flush system and feed a mix of the pink antifreeze and SaltAway until we see pink coming out of the exhaust ports on the hull. Then shut the engines down and you're done. You'll be surprised at the crap that comes out in the spring when you re-start the engines!

Gene
 
belliswood said:
Hello All you 370 owners,

I need to know if there are any zinks used in the engines, generator and A/C units. My engines are closed fresh water (antifreeze) engines. If there are any used can you tell me what sizes I need and where they are located. I am also needing to flush out / descale the raw water systems. What is best to use and how is it applied.

Thank you all for your expertise...

Barry
Click to expand...

I just ordered the zinc anode for my Westerbeke generator. I got it at www.Marinediscounters.com it was a whopping $5.97.
Part number: Westerbeke Zinc Pencil Anode 11885 @ $5.97
http://www.marinediscounters.com/servlet/Categories?keyword=westerbeke+pencil+zinc

For whatever reason though, mine goes in the top of the heat exchanger. I can tell you I spent countless amounts of time on the net looking for the proper one and as it turns out, this is the standard size for all Westerbekes in that year frame.

Here is a link to the Westerbeke online manual:
http://www.westerbeke.com/products/onlinemanuals.aspx
Here is the link for the Westerbeke 7.0bcg. Otherwise scroll through the above link until you find your generator. It will be half way down the page...lots of scrolling...LOL
http://www.westerbeke.com/OnlineManuals/38747_4.5-7.0BCG-A_Technical_Man.pdf
Go to page 11 and it will show you the position of the anode..lower right side on top of the heat exchanger. Hint: It is MUCH faster to download it as a PDF versus waiting for all the pages to load over the net. The 2 bottom screws are the drain plugs as shown on page 51.

Here is my challenge if anyone can help me. The new pencil anode is part of the screw cap, IE all 1 piece. I can unscrew the nut on top to remove the anode (which looks as if it is still original from previous owners), but I am unable to insert the new one. It is being blocked by something, possible the old one has broken off in the screw area? And as most of you know it is a real B E A T C H to get your head in there to try and look down into the hole. So, can I try and just punch the hole through with a small awl and hammer or will that really screw it up by having a part floating loss in there, no matter how big or small it is? I am stuck at this point as to what should be done..leave it alone or get the new one installed at whatever the cost??? I operate in freshwater only, and it has been a long time since it was replaced if ever.
Thanks for the advice.
 
TheWolfTC said:
I just ordered the zinc anode for my Westerbeke generator. I got it at www.Marinediscounters.com it was a whopping $5.97.
Part number: Westerbeke Zinc Pencil Anode 11885 @ $5.97
http://www.marinediscounters.com/servlet/Categories?keyword=westerbeke+pencil+zinc

For whatever reason though, mine goes in the top of the heat exchanger. I can tell you I spent countless amounts of time on the net looking for the proper one and as it turns out, this is the standard size for all Westerbekes in that year frame.

Here is a link to the Westerbeke online manual:
http://www.westerbeke.com/products/onlinemanuals.aspx
Here is the link for the Westerbeke 7.0bcg. Otherwise scroll through the above link until you find your generator. It will be half way down the page...lots of scrolling...LOL
http://www.westerbeke.com/OnlineManuals/38747_4.5-7.0BCG-A_Technical_Man.pdf
Go to page 11 and it will show you the position of the anode..lower right side on top of the heat exchanger. Hint: It is MUCH faster to download it as a PDF versus waiting for all the pages to load over the net. The 2 bottom screws are the drain plugs as shown on page 51.

Here is my challenge if anyone can help me. The new pencil anode is part of the screw cap, IE all 1 piece. I can unscrew the nut on top to remove the anode (which looks as if it is still original from previous owners), but I am unable to insert the new one. It is being blocked by something, possible the old one has broken off in the screw area? And as most of you know it is a real B E A T C H to get your head in there to try and look down into the hole. So, can I try and just punch the hole through with a small awl and hammer or will that really screw it up by having a part floating loss in there, no matter how big or small it is? I am stuck at this point as to what should be done..leave it alone or get the new one installed at whatever the cost??? I operate in freshwater only, and it has been a long time since it was replaced if ever.
Thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...

Remove the end cap from the heat exchanger, and whatever is interfering with inserting the new one will be evident. Be prepared if you have not had the cap off in a while (or ever) to replace the gasket on the end cap. Also there is a small o-ring that goes on the end cap bolt. Make sure that stays put.
 
jgoedd99 said:
Remove the end cap from the heat exchanger, and whatever is interfering with inserting the new one will be evident. Be prepared if you have not had the cap off in a while (or ever) to replace the gasket on the end cap. Also there is a small o-ring that goes on the end cap bolt. Make sure that stays put.
Click to expand...

Wow, thanks!!! Great advice, I will order the gasket today. When I remove the end cap will all the winterization antifreeze come flowing out? Will anything come flowing out...LOL I am assuming the antifreeze will most likely make the mess or am I incorrect?
Thanks again!
Bill
 
TheWolfTC said:
Wow, thanks!!! Great advice, I will order the gasket today. When I remove the end cap will all the winterization antifreeze come flowing out? Will anything come flowing out...LOL I am assuming the antifreeze will most likely make the mess or am I incorrect?
Thanks again!
Bill
Click to expand...
The zinc sits on the "sea water side" of the heat exchanger so if you open up the end cap before draining it, either water or pink stuff (if you already winterized the engine) will come out. So short answer is yes, winterization pink stuff will drain out (not engine antifreeze). To minimize the mess, you can drain the heat exchanger first using the plug that is on the same end of the heat exchanger but opposite the zinc (on the bottom side of the heat exchanger); and use a ShopVac to suck it up as it comes out. That is my new trick this year, I use my 2 gallon ShopVac to vacuum up water, pink stuff, etc instead of sopping it up using a rag. Much quicker and easier. While you are in the heat exchanger, clean out any sea weed, debris, growth, etc as it will interfere with water flow. Again, the ShopVac works great for doing this too.
 
jgoedd99 said:
The zinc sits on the "sea water side" of the heat exchanger so if you open up the end cap before draining it, either water or pink stuff (if you already winterized the engine) will come out. So short answer is yes, winterization pink stuff will drain out (not engine antifreeze). To minimize the mess, you can drain the heat exchanger first using the plug that is on the same end of the heat exchanger but opposite the zinc (on the bottom side of the heat exchanger); and use a ShopVac to suck it up as it comes out. That is my new trick this year, I use my 2 gallon ShopVac to vacuum up water, pink stuff, etc instead of sopping it up using a rag. Much quicker and easier. While you are in the heat exchanger, clean out any sea weed, debris, growth, etc as it will interfere with water flow. Again, the ShopVac works great for doing this too.
Click to expand...

Thanks again...figures, the drain plug is also blocked with something...lol I ordered the gasket so as soon as it arrives I will simply pull the end off and clean up the anti-freeze from winterization. Now that I am thinking about it...I might as well leave it until Spring, that way it remains winterized. It's not like anything is going to get worse for the next 6 months without the zinc..:thumbsup:
 
Hello again, I would like to replace the holding tank filter and the duckbills for the vacu flush. Could someone tell me what is needed and where I can order them.

Thanks
 
Just finished my cockpit tv install..thanks for the great ideas! Found a 24" white, Smart TV to blend in nicely and wired everything behind the fridge and up the radar arch. Also added the remote panel for the new battery smart charger at the helm below the steering column to the starboard side...
Also ordered a new led for the salon..the unit we installed last year is just too small. Going with the same 24" we just installed in the cockpit.

http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/Thewolftc/library/Boat upgrades/Cockpit TV and New helm control
 
Hi all,

Finally got done reading this entire thread (182 pages!). We have a '96 370 and have had it for the past 5 years. So many things that I want to I see most of you have already done so I am sure I will be back with questions. I am starting the laundry list now, which is perfect as the boat just went into storage; sad but easier to work on then.

I was wondering who has installed underwater lights? How was it? What brand did you go with and how many did you end up installing.

Thanks

Tedders
 
Anyone here take out the tv and put flatscreen in the salon on a 370ec early 90's.I would like to make that space a closet as ive seen one that had never had a tv onboard.Thanks Glen
 
Winterized my 1996 370 last week... Now I'm wondering? Is the boat equipped with a "fresh water wash down" in the anchor well???
 
tedders55 said:
Hi all,

Finally got done reading this entire thread (182 pages!). We have a '96 370 and have had it for the past 5 years. So many things that I want to I see most of you have already done so I am sure I will be back with questions. I am starting the laundry list now, which is perfect as the boat just went into storage; sad but easier to work on then.

I was wondering who has installed underwater lights? How was it? What brand did you go with and how many did you end up installing.

Thanks

Tedders
Click to expand...

I installed 4 last winter and they worked GREAT!! I used TH Marines lights in blue. Not expensive but they sure did work well.
http://www.thmarine.com/products/Lights/Underwater-Lights/Underwater-LED-Lights

All that being said, our water in northern Michigan is crystal clear to 25' deep or better so the lumens on these lights did a great job of lighting the water under and around the boat as far back as 25'. Not so overpowering that a boat across the fairway or next to us would be annoyed though. They were easy to install and wire and draw very little current...I think it was 1.1 amps but I'll have to check again. (I have a digital readout at the helm for all dc current draw).
This thread is full of great ideas and great 370 owners all willing to help.
Have fun!
Bill
 
belliswood said:
Hello again, I would like to replace the holding tank filter and the duckbills for the vacu flush. Could someone tell me what is needed and where I can order them.

Thanks
Click to expand...

As for the holding tank filter...you can purchase a replacement filter fro about $99 from just about anywhere online. Discountmarine.com etc. OR you can do what I have done and cut the exisiting filter in half and re-fill with charcoal. Here is a youtube video on how to do it..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3EJ3maovCbs
The guy cuts out at the end, but you get the idea...4 pieces of foam to plug the ends from the charcoal falling out and screw it together. It works great and it is way cheaper than buying a new one.
 
Winterizing is done! Thank you all so much for your input. It went fairly smooth with very little issues. Most issues was making lines to hook up to the water lines. Any way THANKS!

Barry
 
NOw need to look at replacing the manifolds and risers. I have found out they are 1/2 fresh water cooled so sea water goes thru the manifolds, risers and elbows. So where do you al go to get them and what cost am I looking at for parts? Next have any of you changed them out yourself? What problems did you encounte? Was it dificult?

Also want to get new empellors and put in. Who's the manufacture and where do I order them from?

Barry
 
Quick question!!! Winterizing is done but last night woke up thinking about the Hot water heater. The heater was drained of fresh water. It is heated by the Starboard engine when cruising so is that acomplished by the FWC side or the RWC side? Do I need to disconect the lines and blow them out? My boat is 4 hours away so If I nese to go back down I need to do it soon...
 
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