Official 370 Express Cruiser Thread (1997-2000)

Shooter_x said:
Back again with more "Everyone learn from my suffering" :)

My cabin door felt...heavy. So some investigating I found one of the trucks exploded, so I got in touch with FP-Marine and found this kit - https://www.fpmarine.com/Plastic-sliding-door-track-and-rollers-p/door-trackset-single-truck-sys.htm

I'll say this - I worked with Ben Marx there and he was prompt and knowledgeable.

He and the website said the old style trucks which the door rides on (which mine had) required replacing the entire track.

Heres the TLDR: The old trucks CAN be replaced without replacing the tracks - which is this part (Quantity 4) - https://www.fpmarine.com/Sliding-door-track-rollers-p/door truck b 25mm.htm

I removed the block by the bottom track, took the door out (which is tight but can be done) and found that its screwed down all the way behind the fiberglass form on the port side (with the steps and map area).

I'll add my walk through at the bottom, but heres the comparison of the original (I think) non bearing design, and the new ball bearing trucks.
View attachment 84350 View attachment 84351

Heres the walkthrough -
1. Start with door closed.
2. Unscrew the 4 screws at the top holding the trucks
3. Unscrew the 3 screws at the bottom of the door holding it to the u channel.
4. Unlatch the door, slide it back to clear the door lock and gently work it out of the U channel, and lift out of the doorway. I did this by myself, and laid it over top of the port side (passenger side of the helm)
5. Unscrew the 2 screws holding the U channel to the bottom trucks.
6. Unscrew the bottom track (like 4 visible screws) and unscrew the block of starboard front of it.
7. Pull the track away from the Cabin enough to slide out the bottom trucks and slide in the new ones.
8. Slide out the top trucks and replace
9. Re secure starboard block and bottom U channel.
10. Hate your life while you try to line up the trucks to the U channel and reinstall.
11. Hate your life while you wiggle the door back in,fight it back into the U channel and then fight to line up the holes in the U channel with the holes in the door.
11. Hate your life while you align the top trucks with the door, which will wiggle around a good bit. Use a flat blade screwdriver to move the truck to the right spot.
12. Reinstall the top screws.

It took be about 45 minutes or so start to finish. I'm guessing our track and the sundancers are different and the majority of the tracks FP Marine sees are Sundancers.

All you need is a few beverages, 4 trucks, and some patience and you're all set. My bottom trucks were both cracked in half, the tops were intact. Mine is a 97, so most of this group is probably looking at experiencing this in the next few years.

Hope this helps someone and saves them the $$ of buying the whole kit.

Cheers!
Click to expand...
Hey shooter, thanks for this post, I am going to have to replace the upper tracks that the door rides in as it is moving rough and the track is pretty broken apart. Did you or has anyone had to replace the track? if so would I need to take off the port side dash/mapping area in order to replace. Couldn't find any resources on the Sea ray site that would help.
 
Brutus72 said:
Hey shooter, thanks for this post, I am going to have to replace the upper tracks that the door rides in as it is moving rough and the track is pretty broken apart. Did you or has anyone had to replace the track? if so would I need to take off the port side dash/mapping area in order to replace. Couldn't find any resources on the Sea ray site that would help.
Click to expand...

You are correct - You will have to take off the map area formed panel in order to replace the tracks. Its 1 visible screw from the top, a handful of screws on the bottom edge, and I didn't see any in the sides while I was peering around.
 
Autopilot question:

Finally launched our boat today in Chicago, (all Chgo harbors still not open), but I got out. My B&G network pilot had a display message: rud drv. I could not use the autopilot, but manual steering was fine.
I’m guessing this means rudder driver.
Is this a diy, a small problem, a big problem?
 
Michigan Motorz......get a NEW long block....

Why did it hydroseize? You need to find that out before you put a new long block in....
 
Hello all.
Taking delivery in the next week or so on one of these beauties. With hardtop and cats.
I’ll need to have her hauled for some work on the rudder leaking, other than that not in too bad of shape. Just some faded gelcoat and overdue on updates.
While out, I was going to pull / reseat the port windows. One is all spider cracked and the other shows signs of minor water intrusion.

I was wondering if anyone knows if this is the correct replacement?
https://www.searay-parts.com/Bomar-Flagship-Port-Window-p/49-s5166ss portwindow.htm

I am about an hour and half away from so tough for me to get there for a measurement.
Thanks in advance and I look forward to sharing stories
 
Hello 370EC owners. I found something the other day that was VERY disturbing. I noticed my GFI outlet under the sink was tripped. I reset it and in a few minutes, it tripped again. I went back to the shore power and unplugged the lead from the dock to the boat. I have a Splitter that takes 1 cord and goes to the 2 plugs. I plugged the dock cable back in to the splitter and heard Arcing in the plug box under the port side step. I unplugged the cord and took out the plug.
20200614_161358.jpg
20200615_104449.jpg

Looking at the back of the plug, the Black wire was loose on the terminal. This was done from the factory

I would like ALL of you to check this on your boats. This plug is about 2 feet from 350 gallons of fuel! NOT Good!

I checked all of the connections on the cord, and the y adapter. Everything checks out fine. The Plug that was plugged into this outlet is now bad. It was New last year.
Please check this so your boat doesn't go up in flames. I think I was really close!

Good Luck
 
Boca_Vincent said:
Hello all.
Taking delivery in the next week or so on one of these beauties. With hardtop and cats.
I’ll need to have her hauled for some work on the rudder leaking, other than that not in too bad of shape. Just some faded gelcoat and overdue on updates.
While out, I was going to pull / reseat the port windows. One is all spider cracked and the other shows signs of minor water intrusion.

I was wondering if anyone knows if this is the correct replacement?
https://www.searay-parts.com/Bomar-Flagship-Port-Window-p/49-s5166ss portwindow.htm

I am about an hour and half away from so tough for me to get there for a measurement.
Thanks in advance and I look forward to sharing stories
Click to expand...
My SeaRay parts manual has that listed as 726125 - Portlight Fixed Bomar SS-Outer/White Inner and 729319 Portlight Opening Bomar All SS 3/8. The part numbers don't match up to your link, but it does look like it. I'm not sure that mine is 18" long though, were there any other sizes on FP?

Congrats on the new boat, you are lucky to get one with both Diesels and a Hard Top! It took me over 18 months to find mine. Where is yours located? Be sure you post some pictures when you are able to!

Kevin
 
West32 said:
Hello 370EC owners. I found something the other day that was VERY disturbing. I noticed my GFI outlet under the sink was tripped. I reset it and in a few minutes, it tripped again. I went back to the shore power and unplugged the lead from the dock to the boat. I have a Splitter that takes 1 cord and goes to the 2 plugs. I plugged the dock cable back in to the splitter and heard Arcing in the plug box under the port side step. I unplugged the cord and took out the plug. Looking at the back of the plug, the Black wire was loose on the terminal. This was done from the factory

I would like ALL of you to check this on your boats. This plug is about 2 feet from 350 gallons of fuel! NOT Good!

I checked all of the connections on the cord, and the y adapter. Everything checks out fine. The Plug that was plugged into this outlet is now bad. It was New last year.
Please check this so your boat doesn't go up in flames. I think I was really close!

Good Luck
Click to expand...

Holy shite, that is scary stuff! Thanks for the heads up, I'll check mine out right away.
 
West32 said:
Hello 370EC owners. I found something the other day that was VERY disturbing. I noticed my GFI outlet under the sink was tripped. I reset it and in a few minutes, it tripped again. I went back to the shore power and unplugged the lead from the dock to the boat. I have a Splitter that takes 1 cord and goes to the 2 plugs. I plugged the dock cable back in to the splitter and heard Arcing in the plug box under the port side step. I unplugged the cord and took out the plug. View attachment 86676 View attachment 86677
Looking at the back of the plug, the Black wire was loose on the terminal. This was done from the factory

I would like ALL of you to check this on your boats. This plug is about 2 feet from 350 gallons of fuel! NOT Good!

I checked all of the connections on the cord, and the y adapter. Everything checks out fine. The Plug that was plugged into this outlet is now bad. It was New last year.
Please check this so your boat doesn't go up in flames. I think I was really close!

Good Luck
Click to expand...
Wow that’s crazy which plug was it the one with more load like the air-conditioning? etc.
 
joeyleggz said:
Wow that’s crazy which plug was it the one with more load like the air-conditioning? etc.
Click to expand...

It was the left plug which is not the AC unit.
 
Quick question for the collective - Have any of you guys refitted your AC or still running the original equipment?
 
Shooter_x said:
Quick question for the collective - Have any of you guys refitted your AC or still running the original equipment?
Click to expand...
Still original for me, Cruisair reverse cycle. No problems with it. Are you having issues with yours?

Kevin
 
Mine has a hard time heating up, takes a bit to cool. I wouldn't say anything is "wrong" but when things hit around that 20 year mark I start eyeing them for upgrades, especially when they seem a little goofy.

Full disclosure I haven't done so much as to have it checked/recharged, which is on my to do list. I was more curious to see if anyone had done a drop in retrofit to go to a more available refrigerant.
 
Shooter_x said:
Quick question for the collective - Have any of you guys refitted your AC or still running the original equipment?
Click to expand...
I have all original. One thing I would suggest doing is running "Barnical Buster" through your AC unit. Close the intake, open the strainer, have someone standby the thermostat and have them turn it on while you are ready to pour in "Barnical Buster". Run about half the gallon through the system and have them stop the pump. Let it sit for at least an hour. Turn it back on and pour the rest of the gallon through, stop it and let it sit an hour again. Close your strainer, open the intake and Watch the crap come out of your lines. Its amazing! It should run better after that.....- https://www.amazon.com/Barnacle-Bus...ocphy=9051676&hvtargid=pla-570070286601&psc=1
 
Shooter_x said:
Quick question for the collective - Have any of you guys refitted your AC or still running the original equipment?
Click to expand...

Still running the original stuff, except I had to replace the mother board which is in that corner. We all know where it’s at.
That cost $800 installed.
On this topic, I also tape dryer sheets all around the air return areas under the stairs to filter the air going back to the a/c.
 
Hick said:
Still running the original stuff, except I had to replace the mother board which is in that corner. We all know where it’s at.
That cost $800 installed.
On this topic, I also tape dryer sheets all around the air return areas under the stairs to filter the air going back to the a/c.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip on the dryer sheets. I will throw some up.
I am still evaluating all the systems on board. While there yesterday running the a/c I did notice the pan had a considerable amount of water in it, about half inch. not sure if this is normal. Water was pumping fine.
And what about "that corner" should I know? PO did replace same motherboard a couple years back as well.
Thanks, Vince
 
Anyone have experience changing out your Cutless Bearings? Mine need it now I suspect, so I've scheduled the haulout and am getting things together to do it. I've ordered a StrutPro tool and the new bearings. I originally thought that I had 1.75" shafts (based on info from my surveyor when I bought the boat, plus some detailed parts notes that the PO left with the boat, showing the shaft zincs are 1.75" diameter). However, I checked in the manual from SeaRay, and it shows the prop shaft is 1.5", and the bearings are 1.5" x 2" x 6". That's what I ordered, but I'm now second guessing that decision. Do you all know what size yours are?

I do know that I will need to take the props off as well, it looks like for props this size (22x26), I'll need to use a harmonic puller instead of a C clamp type, and I assume that I can reuse the prop nuts but will need to replace the cotter pins. Does all of that sound right?

Any of you ever done this yourselves or have you hired it out? With the right tool that I've ordered, it looks very straight-forward, but it's just any of the gotchas that I'm not thinking about that I'm worried about.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
GnrlPatton said:
Anyone have experience changing out your Cutless Bearings? Mine need it now I suspect, so I've scheduled the haulout and am getting things together to do it. I've ordered a StrutPro tool and the new bearings. I originally thought that I had 1.75" shafts (based on info from my surveyor when I bought the boat, plus some detailed parts notes that the PO left with the boat, showing the shaft zincs are 1.75" diameter). However, I checked in the manual from SeaRay, and it shows the prop shaft is 1.5", and the bearings are 1.5" x 2" x 6". That's what I ordered, but I'm now second guessing that decision. Do you all know what size yours are?

I do know that I will need to take the props off as well, it looks like for props this size (22x26), I'll need to use a harmonic puller instead of a C clamp type, and I assume that I can reuse the prop nuts but will need to replace the cotter pins. Does all of that sound right?

Any of you ever done this yourselves or have you hired it out? With the right tool that I've ordered, it looks very straight-forward, but it's just any of the gotchas that I'm not thinking about that I'm worried about.

Thanks,
Kevin
Click to expand...

I had my storage guy do it for $300 a side. My Shafts are 1.5" and I have the 454 Horizons. I would assume yours are larger with the Diesels.... I think you might need more than a Harmonic puller to pop the props..
 
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