Official 330/350 (2008 and newer) Thread

Wendy & Jim said:
Hi All my engines have what I assume are flushing fitting on the right side of each engine I can't find the male adapter on the boat . how does every one use these fittings. been told to just hook hose to it and turn on the water but I would like to know the right way if possible. thanks
Click to expand...

The right way to flush :) is written in the manual. Below is my version :)

With a hot engine - switch it off.
Close water inlets (seacock's) - plug the hose into the flush port.
Turn water on - and wait 30 seconds with water running.
Start engine. Run at slightly above idle (I use 900-1000 rpm) for 10-15 minutes.
Switch Engine off.
Wait 10 seconds.
Switch water supply off.
Leave seacocks closed until next outing.

Don't flush a cold engine. The heat opens up the "pores" in the metal - so if you let it cool with salt water in there - the salt might get slightly encased into the engine metal - and that makes rust come faster. So flush while engine is still hot - and so hot that the thermostat opens (so within normal operating temperature)

I have cut my 10-15 minute flush part down to about 3-4 minutes - since I use SaltAway to flush with. So I have a SaltAway dispenser on the hose. So my flush sequence is:

With a hot engine - switch it off.
Close water inlets (seacock's) - plug the hose into the flush port.
Turn water on - and wait 30 seconds with water running.
Start engine. Run at slightly above idle (I use 900-1000 rpm) for 2 minutes with SaltAway in RINSE MODE (only water comes through)
Continue at same RPM - but move SaltAway to SaltAway mode (so SaltAway is mixed with the water) until I see "soapy" bubbles from exhaust. (about 60 seconds)
Switch Engine off.
Wait 10 seconds.
Switch water supply off.
Leave seacocks closed until next outing.

At my last inspection the risers looked like new inside. And I am in the absolute worst place for growth with some of the saltiest water in the world.
 
Hi Kaz, My prior boat did not have seacocks. I never had any problem without them, but I wonder if that causes any problem with the fresh water flush. Also, how do you not burn out your impellers running with the seacocks closed?
 
If you don't have seacocks - then just run it as above - but extend timing a bit. And adding SaltAway or similar becomes a bit more important - since the engine will still suck in a bit of salt water from the B3s.

And no - the engine mounted flush ports feeds water in BEFORE the water pump (or should do) - so your impellers will be fine. It can actually damage the engine if you feed pressurised water in without running the engine. Plus you will most likely never get thermostat to open - so the heat exchanger won't get flushed.

But read the engine manual for 100% correct flush instructions - each model type is slightly different.
 
I love my 330...

We made the trip from Gloucester to OB (Martha's Vineyard for you Southerners) on July 4. Made a serious captain's mistake and only checked the forecast for North of the canal. I know better after a few snotty trips through Buzzard's Bay. In any event, we found ourselves in serious waves in Buzzard's Bay. I can estimate height, but to avoid controversy, suffice to say we had green water close to the radar arch and several inches briefly in the cockpit while the scuppers did their jobs. Never a hiccup with the engines despite the extreme conditions and no problem staying pointed to the snot. Visibility went near zero in Vineyard Sound which is a motivator to upgrade to the open array radar - very tough to stay safe with the resolution of the radome in heavy seas. But the stability of the 330 is great and our confidence in her goes up every year.


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Kaz, thx for the a/c information. And, Bport, +1 on the 330. We absolutely love everything about it. Our confidence is sky high as well, it's an awesome, reliable, quality boat. I'm so glad we chose it!


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Hi All so today while out on the sound I had a engine run hot (195) and got a alarm. after a couple minutes engine cooled down a little (181 star.) (165 port ) my water pressure gauge was reading high on the star. engine 14.7 and 4.6 on port at idle. port runs from 4.6 at idle to 22 at 3000. star. runs from 14.7 to 40 . are my thoughts correct that I have a clog or restriction on the sea water side. what kind of number do you guys have.
 
Just finished upgrading all my bulbs to LED's. All the Bulbs where purchased from SuperBrightLeds.com. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/boat-rv-bulbs/ I'll try to snap some pictures this weekend.

  • For Cockpit and Arch (5 Total - Blue) = 1142_Dual-Contact_Bayonet_LED_Bulbs.

  • For Cabin and Head other than the Reading Lights (8 Total) = G4_Bi-Pin_Bulbs

  • For the Reading Lights (7 Total) = 194_Wedge_LED_Bulbs
 
Wendy & Jim said:
Hi All so today while out on the sound I had a engine run hot (195) and got a alarm. after a couple minutes engine cooled down a little (181 star.) (165 port ) my water pressure gauge was reading high on the star. engine 14.7 and 4.6 on port at idle. port runs from 4.6 at idle to 22 at 3000. star. runs from 14.7 to 40 . are my thoughts correct that I have a clog or restriction on the sea water side. what kind of number do you guys have.
Click to expand...
Did you figure this one out? I used to run up to 170, but that was it, unless I pegged them for a while, but never over 175. Sounds like blockage. I don't recall where the sensor is, but the block would need to be after the sensor if the impeller is pumping strong. The 4.6 is about right for idle.
 
JV II said:
Did you figure this one out? I used to run up to 170, but that was it, unless I pegged them for a while, but never over 175. Sounds like blockage. I don't recall where the sensor is, but the block would need to be after the sensor if the impeller is pumping strong. The 4.6 is about right for idle.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Mine runs between 165 and 170 on both motors.
 
I always ran 170-175 but I also found that I had different psi readings between engines as you had. Dealer found a bad sensor and replaced then both read the same (4-22)
 
gkuypers said:
Just finished upgrading all my bulbs to LED's. All the Bulbs where purchased from SuperBrightLeds.com. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/boat-rv-bulbs/ I'll try to snap some pictures this weekend.

  • For Cockpit and Arch (5 Total - Blue) = 1142_Dual-Contact_Bayonet_LED_Bulbs.

  • For Cabin and Head other than the Reading Lights (8 Total) = G4_Bi-Pin_Bulbs

  • For the Reading Lights (7 Total) = 194_Wedge_LED_Bulbs
Click to expand...

I like SuperBrightLeds.com. I used led bulbs from them to replace all of the cabin lights on my 350. I also just got done putting strips of blue LEDs up by the v-berth. They sell some really small switches that made it easy to hide everything.

My dealer also installed an led all around light when they put in my SeaView mount over the winter. The only light left to change out are the nav lights.
 
found a clog in my heat exchanger, had the system flushed out and got my psi down to about 2 and my temp went to 159 so all seems well. thinking about doing the same to the other side its temp stays around 170. thanks
 
GK how do you like your new lights, brighter, etc? Also, I'm curious how the remove/replace worked out? Thanks for sharing the source. I'm thinking it would be a good fall project.


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ziekman@cox.net said:
GK how do you like your new lights, brighter, etc? Also, I'm curious how the remove/replace worked out? Thanks for sharing the source. I'm thinking it would be a good fall project.


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Click to expand...

Ziekman, the new lights are very nice and I would say the lights are different, not brighter. The LED's seem to have a more pleasant light to them, easier on the eyes and run a lot cooler. They are fairly simple to change once you figure out how to get them out of the fixtures. The 5 smaller ceiling lights have spring type clips that hold them in the ceiling, so once you pull down on these just watch your fingers as they come out. The large light over the Stove and the 2 in the Head twist to lock & unlock. The reading lights you need a small flat head screw driver to take the front portion of the lens cover off. There is a little slot for the screw driver to fit into. THe cockpit lights are the easiest, just remove the 2 screws. I'll try to take some pictures this weekend of the boat with all LED's.
 
Thanks GK, much appreciated. The factory lights do run hot, so that benefit is huge. Thanks again, and enjoy your new lights!!


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Anyone have an idea as to how I can slide my Iso-Therm crisper draw fridg out a couple inches? The door is broken and I'd like to replace it, but to do so I need to remove one of the hinge pins prior to removing and then replacing the door. I looked at the unit and did not see how it is secured in the cabinetry. Any assistance would be much appreciated.

Peter
 
Peter, I'll take a look when we go back, but I wonder if you have to remove the utility drawer to get under the fridge. Our door on the fridge drawer is broke, too. Where did you source the replacement door?


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