Official 320 Dancer Thread

I have the 6.2s with the closed system and they perform well. Gas hogs.... but no performance complaints. I flush my motors after the weekend or long trip with Salt Away because risers are raw water cooled. IMHO the concern (besides performance) when comparing a fresh water cooled 6.2s and raw water cooled 5.7s would be the exhaust manifolds. If you flush the 5.7s on a regular basis, what's the life span on exhaust manifolds? With both configurations you'll need to replace the risers on a regular basis. With the fresh water cooled 6.2s you'll go a lot longer between exhaust manifold changes.


jjcllc328 said:
I am about to purchase a 2005 320.i have narrowed it to two. The only difference besides price is on is a 5.7 & the other is 6.2 I was told that 6.2 s are fresh water cooled and a closed system and that the 5.7s are raw water cooled and have to be flushed after every use as I am Boating on long island in salt water.any input is appreciated both are v drives
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Both motors are available with closed cooling.
 
Ours is a 5.7 which is fresh water cooled. I flush with salt away after every outing on the sound.
 
St.SomewhereII said:
St. Somewhere is 2006 Sundancer 320. V- drive, twin 6.2 engines. Owned her for one year. Have experience ongoing problems with the starting system on the starboard engine. Symptom of problem, fuel pump relay switch fails. Have replace 4 in the past year. Mercruiser service tech, replaced first failure but cannot explain what is causing the problem.

Anyone having the same problem?
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Yes, exact same issue. Engine would shut down, then not start. Tech replaced fuel relay, fixed. Then it happened again. Tech found harness to the relay burned out, replaced it. Have taken it out 3 times since, no issues at all. He checked the fuel pump, thinking it was drawing too many amps, but it was not, so we think the harness was nicked and shorted out. If tech hasn't already, Check pump, replace harness (was not expensive, I can find the price if you are curious)


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Connection looks to be stock. It has a quick connect fitting so I hook up saltaway via a hose.
 
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Posting some upgrades I have done to a new to me 2007 320DA, first, here are some fake wood floors I had installed.
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Not an upgrade, but I had the boat wet sanded, polished, and waxed, came out looking much better than before.
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Here is a photo of the name shortly after I installed it.
And a pic of a new Sony stereo system to replace the broken interior sound system, complete with BlueTooth and USB input.
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Ray Sea One said:
Looks great. The floor is a project I am moving up the list.
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Thanks, the labor on the floor was crazy. Still finding pockets of dust where they tried to smooth the existing floor after carpet and half wood floor (glued down, of course) were removed.


Brown Eyed Girl - Sea Ray 320DA 350 MAG MPI V-drive
 
Todd320 said:
Posting some upgrades I have done to a new to me 2007 320DA, first, here are some fake wood floors I had installed.
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Flooring came out excellent. I just finished ripping out my carpet, was thinking of installing Lonseal flooring, What product did you have installed?


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The flooring is C-flor interior decking by NuTeak. The invoice did not breakdown the labor vs parts, but it was under 4K. The majority of this was labor, they spent a good week getting the surfaced prepped, removing carpet and the half-wood floor in the galley. It was 66 sq ft. DIY people should be able to do this for under 1k easy, if they have the time and patience.


Brown Eyed Girl - Sea Ray 320DA 350 MAG MPI V-drive
 
More upgrades/repairs tomorrow. Adding a Bluetooth receiver (pictured) to my Clarion cockpit stereo. Fixing the windlass and performing maintenance (Antares Quick 1000), then detailing the exterior (as much as I can). The only thing I am concerned about is removing the Clarion, it only slides out about an inch, so I need to get my behind it to remove the harness. Not sure how to get the DC panel off. Any ideas?
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Brown Eyed Girl - Sea Ray 320DA 350 MAG MPI V-drive
 
Removed the DC panel to get access to the Clarion, eventually got everything removed and the Bluetooth works great! Fixed my windlass, the magnetic circuit breaker in the bilge had tripped, after looking at the wiring diagram and measuring voltage between the motor's negative post and the contoller's center positive post and getting zero, knew it had to be the breaker.
Now, I am getting IAC output error 152 on my horizon MPI 5.7l 350 port engine. Going to post something on an engine discussion, but will simply replace the IAC to see if that corrects the issue.


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I'm sitting on the floor right at Harborage Marina. Same boat as yours except outdrives. I watched the guys install your floor. You're right, it was labor intensive. I'm working in my boat (Patsy Lou) a couple of days a week. Hope to meet you there some day.
 
GaryQ said:
I'm sitting on the floor right at Harborage Marina. Same boat as yours except outdrives. I watched the guys install your floor. You're right, it was labor intensive. I'm working in my boat (Patsy Lou) a couple of days a week. Hope to meet you there some day.
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Hey, Gary. I used your boat as a template on how to put my name on mine! I met Pat, he owns a 320 on the other side of mine. We were both fixing the same issue on Saturday, the windlass would make a clicking noise, but would not engage the motor. Saw him again Sunday, and he is the one who told me to fix the IAC myself, and keep a spare on hand. I will keep an eye out for you!


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Todd320 said:
Hey, Gary. I used your boat as a template on how to put my name on mine! I met Pat, he owns a 320 on the other side of mine. We were both fixing the same issue on Saturday, the windlass would make a clicking noise, but would not engage the motor. Saw him again Sunday, and he is the one who told me to fix the IAC myself, and keep a spare on hand. I will keep an eye out for you!


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Here is a picture of the breaker you are looking for. Your location in the bilge may be different.
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/58479-jammed-windlass?p=657523#post657523
 
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