Official 320 Dancer Thread

jwesty said:
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1. I have the Raymarine c70 and Smartcraft display. As of two months ago my fish finder/ depth was working fine but now when I go to that page on the c70, it states "no data". Did a transducer go bad? Loose connection? Any ideas what to look for?
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Welcome to the 320 club.

If your boat is configured as mine, SmartCraft is getting it's data directly from transducer and should have depth reading on the tachometers (keep clicking the MODE button and you'll get to DEPTH). C70 must be getting depth reading from an aditional transducer, which most likelly is feeding DSM (whatever model you have) unit. You need to find that DSM and check if it has a GREEN light. If it does, this most likely means that the other dedicated RM transducer is working and is sending data to the DSM. Now it would be between the DSM and C70 (hopefully bad connection).

Just remember that you should have 2 different transducers, so if C70 doesn't show you depth you can get it from the tach.

jwesty said:
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2. My sliding entry door's upper "track" is worn/broken. I need to have it replaced but it looks like the whole cockpit console needs to be removed to get access in order to remove the door. Would this be correct? I replaced the wheels that attach to the top of the door but have now broken the new ones already! Any advice for fixing the track?
Click to expand...

I doubt very much that the whole console needs to come off. If you loosen all the screws on the door it should be sliding out toward the cockpit. If you can't get all the screws on the track you can take one or two helm pannels out and reach those screws from there.
 
jwesty said:
3. I have the Raymarine GPS antenna located on the arch. I also have a similar looking BLACK unit that says Raymarine on it located under the cockpit seat in the storage "box". Any idea what this is???

Thanks in advance for you help!

JW
Click to expand...

Alex F said:
Welcome to the 320 club.

If your boat is configured as mine, SmartCraft is getting it's data directly from transducer and should have depth reading on the tachometers (keep clicking the MODE button and you'll get to DEPTH). C70 must be getting depth reading from an aditional transducer, which most likelly is feeding DSM (whatever model you have) unit. You need to find that DSM and check if it has a GREEN light. If it does, this most likely means that the other dedicated RM transducer is working and is sending data to the DSM. Now it would be between the DSM and C70 (hopefully bad connection).


.
Click to expand...


It sounds like he already did.
 
Thanks for the quick response...it looks like I have some additional investigating to do!
 
Now you guys got me thinking. I have the c70 and the Smartcraft (and nothing on my c70- which means no 2nd transducer). However, On my tachs, the depth doesn't change or I get the --. Usually it changes once in a while, but not to the level that its actually in working order. Bad Transducer? How easy, or hard, is it to switch out? I do get sea and air temps, etc. Isn't it the same transducer? thanks!
 
daddyox said:
Now you guys got me thinking. I have the c70 and the Smartcraft (and nothing on my c70- which means no 2nd transducer). However, On my tachs, the depth doesn't change or I get the --. Usually it changes once in a while, but not to the level that its actually in working order. Bad Transducer? How easy, or hard, is it to switch out? I do get sea and air temps, etc. Isn't it the same transducer? thanks!
Click to expand...

I have P17 transducer that's hooked up to the SmartCraft, so I'll guess you have the same. I doubt that it gives you temp readings (I've never heard air temp being read from transducer that's positioned to read under water), according to this note in the specs:

Also see:​


ST800
for matching speed/temp
P217, P314, B21, B119

As for why its reading is not reliable, I would check the connections, make sure there's no bottom paint on it and no slime or other growth build up.
​
 
Anyone have issues of a septic smell in the cabin area ? It appeared initially when my sump in the shower box went bad and leaked into the emergency sump area. Changed bad sump an cleaned emergency area with clorox but still remains pungent on occaisions. Blew out all lines and pumped out. Now airing out but my wife thiks it is from the A/C unit ! Any ideas welcome because the admiral is not happy !!
__________________
 
I had same issue this year. Changed the vent filter....same smell...pumped out, filled with water, pumped again and again...same sewer smell.

As I was preparing to remove the toilet I realized that what I was smelling was water that had gone bad; smells jsut like the sewer.

Run out your fresh water supply completely, add fresh water and a couple of cap fulls of of sweet water, aqua pure or Clorox.

Hope its that simple for you, was for me....Ed
 
Does anyone know where i can find wiring schematics online for a 2004 320, i am trying to locate where the aft accesory switches go to use them for powering aftermarket options, there are 2 aft switches and 2 forward accesory switches located by the helm any help on how to use these switches would be greatly appreachiated,.... Thank You
 
Re: Shower Sump/AC Condensation pump question

Can someone tell me where the fuse is for the Shower Sump float/pump?)..
I've changed the sump box out (shower & A/C) once before, and the other day I went into the boat and checked it as I do every so often, and it was running continuously but the water was not going down in the box, (water was most likely from the A/C, as I have the A/C set on automatic humidifier, and it's been in the 90's and raining a lot down here in South Florida).. I cleaned under the float switch thinking it was gunked up, and unclipped the pump and clipped it back in place, but it still did not clear all the water out, and then it stopped working all together... The connections look fine, so I'm thinking it blew a fuse, just don't remember where it is.

Thanks,

Barry
 
OK Barry...from my experience you had an air lock in the check valve which exists the shower sump box....this cause the pump to run and run but not pump...thus it doesnt shut down...sounds like the pump motor may have burned out to me...I dont know of an fuse in the panel for this pump...good luck...Ed
 
Barry,

Have you confirmed that you're not getting 12v on the wires going to the pump or the float switch?

In case if the fuse is blown I can only think of two places to look:
1-fuse pannel under the helm. Although, I don't recall seen the fuse for the shower pump there.
2-main DC pannel in the engine room, right behind tha aft cabin wall.
 
Alex F said:
Barry,

Have you confirmed that you're not getting 12v on the wires going to the pump or the float switch?

In case if the fuse is blown I can only think of two places to look:
1-fuse pannel under the helm. Although, I don't recall seen the fuse for the shower pump there.
2-main DC pannel in the engine room, right behind tha aft cabin wall.
Click to expand...


That is it, on the DC breaker panel on the wall in the engine room. You may need to change the pump, mine went bad for the same reason.
 
I also think if you the fuse was blown chances are your pump need to be replaced.

While you at it, don't forget to check the backup shower pump operation.
 
Re: 2003 320 aft seating

Could someone tell me if the aft circle lounge is a permanent fixed seating or does the transom section fold away.:huh:
 
It is permanent seating.
 
Hello Fellow 320 owners, I thought I'd resurrect this thread.
I am in the process of replacing my old XMD1 with the Clarion M309 unit. I bought a new wired remote (MW1) with extention cable (MW-RXC-RET) and also a extention cable for the USB (CCAUSB) so I can plug the ipods in by the Helm,
a new Clarion APX490M 720 watt 4 channel amp. and a 10 Sub.
The instructions for the amp. say to run new power directly to the battery with a 60amp fuse. There was power to the old little 2 channel amp., couldn't I just use that? Pulling wires is a real pain in the a$$. Have any of you run new power cables to amps, what size wire and where do I place the 60amp fuse?
 
J.Wilt said:
Hello Fellow 320 owners, I thought I'd resurrect this thread.
I am in the process of replacing my old XMD1 with the Clarion M309 unit. I bought a new wired remote (MW1) with extention cable (MW-RXC-RET) and also a extention cable for the USB (CCAUSB) so I can plug the ipods in by the Helm,
a new Clarion APX490M 720 watt 4 channel amp. and a 10 Sub.
The instructions for the amp. say to run new power directly to the battery with a 60amp fuse. There was power to the old little 2 channel amp., couldn't I just use that? Pulling wires is a real pain in the a$$. Have any of you run new power cables to amps, what size wire and where do I place the 60amp fuse?
Click to expand...

Just went through that, and no you can not use the old wire. It is only 12 gauge wire and for your amp you are going to need a minimum of 6 gauge wire for both the positive and negative 12 volts to your amp. I drilled other hole from my power compartment to my amps location under the seat and pulled the power wires along with another speaker cable for the subwoofer. You are right, not exactly an easy job, but for that size amp it is required. I mean you stock amp is only 80 watts and you are going to 720, big difference in power.

Here is my amp board and subwoofer installation:

DSC_0004.jpg




DSC_0009-1.jpg


DSC_0006.jpg


DSC_0008-1.jpg
 
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