Official 320 Dancer Thread

Hey Guys,

I need to replace my zinc's on my 320.. Have the V drives, so there are the ones on my trim tabs and the one on the transom (at least that's all I can see). Does anyone have the size/part numbers and best place to get them? Also which is best for Salt/brackish water?

How easy/difficult is it to do while in the water?

Thanks,

Barry
 
Barry, I don't have any p/n's for you but my diver replaces them while my boat is in the water, says it is easy. I would look at boatzincs.com to see if they have the p/n's or any information for them. I will also look on my parts list to see what I have for you.
 
ok according to my parts list:

144329 ZINC, TRANSOM ZINC
(INBOARD ENGINES ONLY, NOT USED STERN DRIVE ENGINES)

144378 NUT, ZINC 3/8-16 SIL/BRZ
(INBOARD ENGINES ONLY, NOT USED STERN DRIVE ENGINES)

144360 BOLT, ZINC #3/8-16 X 4.5" SIL/BRZ
(INBOARD ENGINES ONLY, NOT USED STERN DRIVE ENGINES)

Nothing in my parts manual about the trim tab zincs though....that is strange.
 
Barry,

I get mine from boatzincs.com, good prices and fast shipping. If you not sure about something they're always helpful on the phone.

Zinc Anode (B-12) ZC-406 1 $34.81

R-3 Rudder Zinc Anode - R-3 2pairs 3-3/4" Dia. $8.63

Don't forget Genny zink - Engine Zinc Anode - E-0 1/4 NPT $2.60

Alex.
 
Thanks Guys,
Alex,

When I emailed boatzincs he said I should look into putting zincs on the shafts.. Does yours have them? Also where are the ones on the rudders? I don't remember seeing them there either.. Do you replace them yourself? I would like to but I was also thinking of bringing in a diver service to clean the bottom, check the props and rudders and change them for me too.


I usually carry a spares kit from Kohler with me and that always has the anode in the kit..Last summer my genny went down while I was in Bimini and it was the impeller and thanks to the kit and some help from Ray from White Pearl, I changed out my first generator impeller.
 
barryg said:
Thanks Guys,
Alex,

When I emailed boatzincs he said I should look into putting zincs on the shafts.. Does yours have them? Also where are the ones on the rudders? I don't remember seeing them there either.. Do you replace them yourself? I would like to but I was also thinking of bringing in a diver service to clean the bottom, check the props and rudders and change them for me too...
Click to expand...

Barry,

I don't have zinks on my shafts and also don't have them on my rudders. I use these zinks fir my tabs. I guess it's a little confusing and looks like the zinks are for the rudders. When I got the boat the zinks on the tabs were smaller (I think around 2" or so). I changed them to the larger size, which I've also used on my 240.

There are different oppinions on having zinks on shafts and rudders, but until I hear valid and convinsing reasons I don't want to install anything extra. At this time I don't have a reason. Since you're in FL area this could be different.
 
Thanks Alex.. Will work on replacing the trim tabs and transom one.

Have another problem now...

last weekend I decided to get things ready for the summer by doing the basics, which for me start at cleaning out the strainers at the various seacocks. The A/C, generator and waste are small and a pain to get to, but not a big problem. The ones that seem to be the most difficult are for the engines. Reaching down to the port seacock handle it would not budge. When I tried to get into a different position to try to close it the handle came off and the lock nut when down in the bilge where I could see it but not reach it by hand. I figured as long as it didn't crack the seacock itself (where the boat could sink), I'd figure a way to retrieve the lock nut and screw the handle back on, get a PVC pipe to extend the handle and hopefully be able to close it and clean out the strainer.

Today was the first day I could get back to it, so I put some duct tape in reverse on the end of a golf club and was able to retrieve the lock nut. When I pulled it back up I felt victorious until I looked inside it and saw in that inside was threaded part of the threaded bolt (or whatever you call the part that the lock nut screws onto) broken off. My heart sank as I am realizing this could mean I have to pull the boat out of the water and have the seacock replaced. It's been a very difficult year financially and I feel lucky to still have a job (though I made about 1/2 of what I normally make) and was able to keep my house and boat, but there's not much left for any major repairs.

Any brilliant ideas or thoughts as to what to do now?? Just taking it to a marina to pull and block it will cost me about $300.00 plus about $40-$50 a day...

:-(
Barry
 
Well, unrelated to all the Florida 320 owners, I am planning on splashing our boat this week...that is a big milestone around these parts in upstate NY!...the winters are long.
 
barryg said:
Have another problem now...

last weekend I decided to get things ready for the summer by doing the basics, which for me start at cleaning out the strainers at the various seacocks. The A/C, generator and waste are small and a pain to get to, but not a big problem. The ones that seem to be the most difficult are for the engines. Reaching down to the port seacock handle it would not budge. When I tried to get into a different position to try to close it the handle came off and the lock nut when down in the bilge where I could see it but not reach it by hand. I figured as long as it didn't crack the seacock itself (where the boat could sink), I'd figure a way to retrieve the lock nut and screw the handle back on, get a PVC pipe to extend the handle and hopefully be able to close it and clean out the strainer.

Today was the first day I could get back to it, so I put some duct tape in reverse on the end of a golf club and was able to retrieve the lock nut. When I pulled it back up I felt victorious until I looked inside it and saw in that inside was threaded part of the threaded bolt (or whatever you call the part that the lock nut screws onto) broken off. My heart sank as I am realizing this could mean I have to pull the boat out of the water and have the seacock replaced. It's been a very difficult year financially and I feel lucky to still have a job (though I made about 1/2 of what I normally make) and was able to keep my house and boat, but there's not much left for any major repairs.

Any brilliant ideas or thoughts as to what to do now??
Click to expand...

Yeah Barry, this is an interesting puzzle. Let me start of by stating that as preventive measure I work (close/open few times) the seacocks periodically. I'm guessing that the bigger contributor to your problem was salty
oxidation build up on the outside parts of the seacock. In any event, what's the possible solution without pulling the boat? Considering the fact that the only goal is to clean the seastrainer all is required is to temporary stop the incoming water. I'm thinking that this is possible from two places: from the inside or the outside.

I would try inside blockage first by having two people. One person would operate the seastraner (open the lid, pull the basket, clean it and put it back and close the lid). The other person would control the water by plugging the whole (strainer intake) with a rag and hold it while the other person is done and you're ready to pull the rag and proceed closing and sealing the lid. I understand that some water will enter the bildge, but I think that it should be possible to hold the incoming water with a rag for couple of minutes while the strainer is getting cleaned.

Controlling the water from the outside I mean is by taking a dive and block the scoopstrainer under the boat. To be on the safe side you could try both, first block it on the outside and only then proceed on the inside.

Please note that I had never tried this myself and hope I'll never have to. I'm only guessing that the amount of pressure from incoming water will be not very difficult to overpower by hand with a rag. So, as you can imagine there's a risk involved in case if this doesn't work. In the end there are two possible scenarios. 1-the best scenario, If all goes well and you're able to maintain control of incoming water you'll get some water in the bildge but would clean the straner and be done with the task. 2- The worst sacenario, If you loose control and totally panic you could sink the boat.

I hope that folks with more experience can suggest a better method on doing this.

BTW, is there any thread left on the seacock to re-attach the hadle?
 
Hey Alex,

You're probably right about the salty oxidation and I'm not sure if there are enough threads left on the valve stem to reattach the handle, so I'm guessing I'm going to have to pull the boat and replace the seacock. I'm not sure I would want to risk sinking the boat, as the strainers for the engines are much larger than the others so the water flow could be substantial and with no way to cut the supply off until I get the strainers out and try to plug it , some serious water could be flowing into the bilge. Pretty bummed out about it but will have to chalk it up to one of those things that happen...

Guess once it's hauled out and put on blocks I'll borrow a rotary from one of my friends, take a few days off of work and compound and polish the boat myself instead of paying someone and at least then I'll save around $400.00... I also have to change the oil, oil filters and possibly the transmission fluid and filters, though I've only put about 50-60 hours since the last change but I usually do that in the water after I run the engines for about 5-10 minutes to warm up the oil..If you can think of anything else I should or could do maintenance wise once I pull the boat, let me know.. Hopefully the bottom paint is still good as I wasn't thinking about repainting right now either..

Not sure what a new seacock asembly costs, let alone the labor, but have a feeling it's not going to be cheap!!

Will let you know what happens...Thanks for your thoughts and for getting back to me..
 
barryg said:
Hey Alex,

You're probably right about the salty oxidation and I'm not sure if there are enough threads left on the valve stem to reattach the handle, so I'm guessing I'm going to have to pull the boat and replace the seacock. I'm not sure I would want to risk sinking the boat, as the strainers for the engines are much larger than the others so the water flow could be substantial and with no way to cut the supply off until I get the strainers out and try to plug it , some serious water could be flowing into the bilge...
Click to expand...

Barry,
I'm glad you're making this choice. I just wanted to give you some ideas since your situation is a bit difficult. However, in overall having clean seastrainers is the least of the problems. Your boat is in water for very long time, imagine what if something goes wrong with the hose feeding the raw water from the seacock, how will you stop it? What if you're not around while this happens? Or worst case scenario, the hose blows while you're crusing......I'm sure you get the picture. So, replacing the broken seacock is the only way to do it. I guess, the only thing left is to take preventive measures on keeping your seacocks clean and functional.

Hope the repairs will be not too expensive.

Good luck,
Alex.
 
Update:

I first thought the Sea Flange Valve (where the handle and lock nut came off) was made by Groco like the strainer is, but found it is made by a company called Combraco. I was able to track down a very knowledgeable gentleman there and I explained what happened. He was surprised that a piece of the valve stem could snap off in the first place and told me that I could use a wrench to open and close the valve in the meantime until I'm ready to replace the unit. That made me feel a lot better, though I'm still not sure I can get enough force on it to move it, but at least it's something to try.

After I went in and took a few measurements and also saw the hose that goes into the top of the valve is 1-1/4" diameter I was able to get the part number and found that my local West Marine carries it.

I went there to buy one and when I found it the salesman and myself tried to move the handle to check it out and it would not budge, and we are placing it on a table where we both could easily reach and put pressure on it . Even some lubrication wouldn't budge it at first and after about 10 minutes we finally got it to move, but very difficult to do so.

I went and found the same exact size and shape in a Groco unit which has a brass handle, and it is so much easier to move that even though it is about $30.00 more, I went and bought it. Tomorrow I'll try the wrench to see if that will be a short term fix, and will visit my mechanic at his marina and see what they will charge to haul out and replace.. I'm figuring at least 2-3 hours of labor as the old one will be difficult to get to and remove..

Will keep my fingers crossed on the wrench as if I can get it to work with that, then I'll maybe put a vise grip on there and use that as the handle for now..

Barry
 
I had posted the question in Electrical Section, but I'll try here as well. Do you guys have these swithces control anything?

Strbrd_Module_Switches.jpg
 
Alex F said:
I had posted the question in Electrical Section, but I'll try here as well. Do you guys have these swithces control anything?

Strbrd_Module_Switches.jpg
Click to expand...

Top - Nothing. On my boat, I wired it to the stereo remote back lighting.

Middle - It's the water pump switch, I think. I don't think it's operational on our boats.

Bottom - Nothing. On my boat, I wired it to the cockpit tv.
 
I think your right on the description they are not utilized on boats. Now for the real help, I too wanted to use them as an accessories switch. So how di you doi it? I know there powerd but couldn't figure how to splice into the mutiplexer and find the circuit that is contrilled by the switch. Please help.
 
Copied self from here:

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6432&highlight=accessory

"Here it is for the next guy: The Aft Acc switch at the helm is a hot switch which is protected by a 15A fuse. The wire is Red/Vio (red with a violet stripe) and dead ends in the bilge. The Swim platform lights can be wired to this wire directly. I haven't located it yet, but I will let you know where I find it. I assume I run the ground wires from the lights to any grounding point?

The wire info is in the 340SDA owner's manual under the electrical schematics. One page shows that the Aft Acc switch led to a particular panel in the bilge. Another page shows that the Aft Acc wire is red/vio. You really have to look for the info, but it's all in there."

Obviously, I subsequently found it: It is in the bundle in front of the stbd engine. Look for a wire with a dead end and black cap on it.
 
top and middle do nothing on mine and the bottom one turns on the under water lights
 
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