Official 320 Dancer Thread

I have the Xtreme heater and I don't turn off my fridges and has worked fine up to this point...famous last words!!!! I wouldn't think the cockpit fridge would run often since it is exposed to the cold?
 
Am i supposed to be running a bilge heater or is it only for extreme climates all the systems have been filled with antifreeze and why are your refrig's still on?
 
My boat stays in the water year round in a slip. My thought was it would reduce moisture in the bilge and less extreme cold weather on the batteries. The other side of it is - if there was any trapped water - that it is insurance. Paranoid - yes - I buy the -100 antifreeze for winterizing when most buy the -50. But in my area the -50 becomes slushy - yes I know antifreeze doesn't expand when it is slushy - but 2 new engines and a generator are expensive. I use the -50 in the water lines and A/C. The bilge heater is just in case.
 
I just panicked when i read this thread i thought i should be running a heater. I agree it's cheaper than the repairs i hope my mech did a good job winterizing .... thanks
 
frozen with salt said:
Am i supposed to be running a bilge heater or is it only for extreme climates all the systems have been filled with antifreeze and why are your refrig's still on?
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frozen with salt,
Are you allowed to use 110v during winter season? By me it's not allowed. If your systems are properly winterized you shouldn't have any issues. I'm not an expert, but IMO the excess moisture is during big temp changes, not necessary when it's cold. I've noticed the extreme only once last spring when temps were jusmping up/down within days that made my engines be covered with layer of moist. That lasted only short period.
 
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Alex F said:
frozen with salt,
Are you allowed to use 110v during winter season? By me it's not allowed. If your systems are properly winterized you shouldn't have any issues. I'm not an expert, but IMO the excess moisture is during big temp changes, not necessary when it's cold. I've noticed the extreme only once last spring when temps were jusmping up/down within days that maid my engines be covered with layer of moist. That lasted only short period.
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You got a maid with your engines, damn I didn't :grin:
 
hack4alivin said:
You got a maid with your engines, damn I didn't :grin:
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:lol:...thanks Bill, I was typing without my glasses.:smt101 I made the correction.
 
Alex F said:
:lol:...thanks Bill, I was typing without my glasses.:smt101 I made the correction.
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I do it all the time; my fingers are going faster than my brain. I just could not resist some playful banter as opposed to my dueling keyboard rants of this week. :grin:
 
you guys are tough on each other huh? i guess during the winter months it's great entertainment , I coated the engines with CRC corrosion inhibitor that seem to keep the surface moisture in check
last year . i'm learning everyday here.
 
320Bob said:
I am looking at getting a plug in 300W bilge heater. I have both a cockpit and cabin refrigerators. Are both typically on the same circuit as the AC outlets or on different ones? I may need to manage current draw on the 15 amp breaker for the outlets. A 300W heater would draw 3 amps on average and 10 amps peak but I am not sure how much the two refrigerators would draw if they are on the same circuit and the outlets.
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I had two (2) Large xxxheat 600w units direct wired and mounted by a local pro in my area back last fall. Seems like the breaker may have been up sized a bit however. Custom bilge vent covers were also installed. As the lake froze in to about a inch of ice around my boat for several days in near zero temperatures for over a week, the heaters kept the temp never much below 38 degree's. In addition to that, the cabin fridge was and still is on. Honestly I don't know how one could have gotten by with smaller heaters. My friend with a similar setup but with 250w heaters got down to 32 degree's. I would not change anything if I were to do it again, I like have a redundant system with my heaters. JMHO. Steve.
 
Hi guys:

I've been trying to empty the waste tank at the marina but I hooked the end of the hose of the marina and nothing came out, so the guy told me that probably there was a valve that had to be opened or something. I decided to go out 5 miles and turn on the discharger but even though it sounded like if it was working still nothing came out.

The tank is half empty so I don't know if I have to wait for some minutes or so, I turned it off since I thought that it could be damaged.

Could somebody tell me how to make this work? I haven't empy it since I got the boat in December although we almost don't use it...
 
colombo1965 said:
Hi guys:

I've been trying to empty the waste tank at the marina but I hooked the end of the hose of the marina and nothing came out, so the guy told me that probably there was a valve that had to be opened or something. I decided to go out 5 miles and turn on the discharger but even though it sounded like if it was working still nothing came out.

The tank is half empty so I don't know if I have to wait for some minutes or so, I turned it off since I thought that it could be damaged.

Could somebody tell me how to make this work? I haven't empy it since I got the boat in December although we almost don't use it...
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Are you sure it is half full? If you're going by the gauge down below, those get stuck sometimes. Also, sometimes if stuff sits in there a while it will leave a shadow line on the tank that from the outside looks like it is full when it is not.

Can't speak to the macerator discharge, but you are doing the pump-out correctly. Works just like a vacuum. You might try taking a garden hose with some good pressure and shooting it down the pump-out and see if you can break stuff free.
 
Stick a flashlight up against the holding tank and have someone rock the boat if there is a stain line you may think it is half full but it is not. It works just like a vacuum - but the pump out sometimes needs to be primed. In my area when they turn on the pumps they often have the hose in the water so they prime and then quickly hook it up to the fitting. Which lights are on your gauge? There is not a valve, is your sea cock for your macerator open - if you leave it open, are you sure the tank is not dumping directly into the water at that time? It sounds like your tank is empty.
 
skolbe said:
Stick a flashlight up against the holding tank and have someone rock the boat if there is a stain line you may think it is half full but it is not. It works just like a vacuum - but the pump out sometimes needs to be primed. In my area when they turn on the pumps they often have the hose in the water so they prime and then quickly hook it up to the fitting. Which lights are on your gauge? There is not a valve, is your sea cock for your macerator open - if you leave it open, are you sure the tank is not dumping directly into the water at that time? It sounds like your tank is empty.
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Here is my question. If the sea cock is open should be dumping it into the water right?

Where can I find this sea cock in the sundancer 320? That way I can check first if the macerator is working properly at least.
 
colombo1965 said:
Where can I find this sea cock in the sundancer 320? That way I can check first if the macerator is working properly at least.
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#11 is what you're looking for.

320DA_Engine_Room.jpg
 
#11 - we have a winner! I don't think it'll drain directly. On mine, it pumps it out of the top and over, I'm pretty sure.

To drain at sea, go waaayyy out, open through hull (#11 in my boat), turn on head system. Actuate dump switch - takes about a minute for a full tank, I think. There may be one other switch in the cabin on that same panel - can't remember - they are all labeled very obviously. Turn switch off, close valve, remove handle, zip tie, or otherwise de-comission the system before returning inside the bay (hefty fines).

After it is empty, before de-comissioning, I fill the head with fresh water 4 times and flush that down, then dump that.
 
Re: Official 320 Dancer Thread - Radar mount

Hey 320 guys,

Can someone tell me the recommended size and angle for a radar mount for the 320? I'm mounting an 18" Garmin Radome.

I was looking at the Seaview 4" mount:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0ffd491e4&rvr_id=&ua=WXI7&itemid=190335576732

Was curious if anyone has experience with this product. You can get it from 0 to 6 degrees of downward angle, any idea what would be best for the 320?

Most pictures I've seen of other 320s look like the radar is sitting on a mount, but it is difficult to tell the angle.
 
skolbe said:
I ended up buying the new 320 - have had it for 3 seasons - Have 225 hours on it and have been very happy with it. Made a few mods nothing major - electronics - different faucet in the head, cockpit carpet on the cabin steps. Other than the depreciation on the new boat, I am happy with it. I drove a 320 with 6.2's and 350 mag's. I didn't see much performance difference in getting on plane. I felt a bit more power in the 3500 rpm range accelerating, but not significant. You boat looks great in the photos. I assume in the pics it was freshly waxed. Nice boat.
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Greetings out to all 320 owners, and fellow boaters !! I have been out of the posting for awhile and still trying to get caught up on the threads. As a fellow 320 owner, I to have done a few mods to mine. Snap in custom carpets for the steps, and bathroom. New Sub and Amp for the stereo. All led bulbs throughout. Under swim platform LED's. Couple large Xtreme 600w heaters mounted in bilge with custom vent covers. 32" TV is currently with the installer to have put in factory style on the bulkhead. So yes lots of mods and always more to come...

Ok, here it goes I am really tired of the shower head for a faucet in the head, I took the shower curtain out on day one, never will use the shower. I would love to know more about and see a pic if possible of your replacement faucet you put in the head. Anything you have would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve.
 
320Bob said:
A question for you 320 owners. I probably will have to replace my wiper blades when I get the boat delivered next month. Do normal automotive wiper blades fit or am I held hostage by Sea Ray to use only their replacement blades? I just replaced my Cadillac CTS blades at the dealer, not checking the price first, which was $58 for a set that I could have bought for $20 at any automotive store.
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What I did on my 280DA and will do in the next couple weeks on my 320DA is take the entire arms into my local Oreilly automotive store and they can do wonders. On my 280 it was only around $12 (if memory serves) for a complete replacement arm and blade that fit and looked factory. They said it is the type that on on 18wheelers. ...Steve
 
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