Official 320 Dancer Thread

Dump Raritan CP in the shower drain each week and your problem will go away.
 
Do you have the Sea Ray Systems Monitor? If so and it was the shower sump, it would read as an alarm. If not, just open up and look at the box (in the cabin by the stairs) and see if that is what is running. I had a lot of problems with mine last year, and had to replace the whole thing about 2 months ago..Not a big deal and you can do it yourself.

let us know what you find out.

Barry
 
Could it be a refrigerator? My cockpit fridge catches me off guard occassionally. Also, if the A/C is on, it dumps into the shower drain box which could be causing the pump to cycle on.
 
Hampton said:
Could it be a refrigerator? My cockpit fridge catches me off guard occassionally. Also, if the A/C is on, it dumps into the shower drain box which could be causing the pump to cycle on.
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John,
The way I understood, the puzzle was that all power breakers (ac/dc) are off and something is kicking off.
 
vanburen said:
The sump and the Tachs are the primary sources of pain.
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Ed,
What about tachs? When the power is off what function do the tachs do?
 
It’s definitely not the refrigerator. I've had the shower sump access panel off to witness the cycle. And nothing is even turned on - no water running recently. The day the dealer delivered the boat this year it happened. We had not ran anything at that time? I have the dealer involved as well. What is "Raritan CP" didn't get anything from my web search? Thanks everyone. Ray
 
Ray Im with you, we may need to contact Searay and ask, if you find out let me know I will do the same, Mike
 
ratherbeboating said:
Alex, there is absolutely nothing coming out of the boat, shower sump pump could be a possibility, but when the cycle up (or whatever) occurs, the shower normally has not been used for several hours or possibly at all, my neighbor in the next slip said he hears it cycle up when we are not even at the boat, do other 320 owners hear this, apparently Ray does, Im stumped, Mike
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Mike,
The shower is not the only source of water to trigger that pump. A/C condencation runs to the same reservoir. So, if you used your a/c, you've got a good candidate.
 
ratherbeboating said:
Ray Im with you, we may need to contact Searay and ask, if you find out let me know I will do the same, Mike
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Mike - FYI, was out on the hook Sunday, got back to the dock and cleaning up to go home - and the sump was stuck running with no water to pump out. I quick ran some H2O through - but it was stuck on - had to pull the cover and turn the float knob by hand and it shut down. Hpe it doesn't restart on it's own! My dealer was going to change out this float switch - I'll have to push them for sooner than later. I think I read in this post that someone said to watch for this to run constantly as its condition deteriorates. Will advise more once the box is changed. Ray
 
Ray, I think the problem/noise is in fact the sump pump, this weekend on the boat with shower running I listened to see if sounded like the same noise, it did, so I assume it is the sump, sounds like you found out the same also, let me know after you replace the sump if it takes care of it, we are heading to Destin Fl this weekend will be gone a few days, but I will take my laptop and see if I can get a signal to check in. I hope this is not something that can stick on and overheat or anything, thanks Mike
 
on another subject, feeling like a bone head, screw backed out of cabin door handle, couldnt see it because of the weatherstrip, door wasnt feeling right sliding closed, I knew something was wrong, before I could find loose screw, I had knocked a big gash in the door frame from the screw in the gelcoat,(ouch), moral of the story, check the cabin handle screws regularly to make sure they are tight, save yourself a little aggravation, happy boating, Mike
 
On that shower sump. We has same problem. Dealer opened and repositioned the sump. Never had the problem again! Good Luck. Mike
 
I also had a shower sump problem it ran so long it blew the breaker. The float and pump were replaced (2x) and I keep it super clean. This year I fixed it my self by installing a electronic level switch. It's easy to do and has a circut to stop endless recycling.
 
I have a question on rod holders. Did any of you drill holes for rod holders? and if so, where did you put them? I know there was talk in this thread about posting pics of where someone put them, but i never saw the photos. Any help would be awesome. Thanks

Mike
 
The way I understand that the primary issue with shower pumps going bad is the lack of check valve (at least in mine). Mine has a tube about 3/4' diameter that simply connects to the pump and discharges the water out. As soon as the pump stops the remaining water in the tube slowly goes back to reservior and kicks off the pump again. The cicle repeats quite fast. I didn't time it, but it felt like 3-5min. I was wandering if you guys have the check valve in your setup.

The strangest part is that the backup sump pump does have the check valve. So, I got the same part from MM and will add it to my main shower pump.

Alex.
 
MAKC said:
I have a question on rod holders. Did any of you drill holes for rod holders? and if so, where did you put them? I know there was talk in this thread about posting pics of where someone put them, but i never saw the photos. Any help would be awesome. Thanks

Mike
Click to expand...

I put them on my 340 using my buddy's 320 as a guide. His cant out almost 45 degrees. They were installed at the dealer (or factory?). After I drilled mine, I found out why his were angled. The tube which recesses into the gunwale makes its way between the dividers which stop waves from going into the ER through the side vents. You can't center the rod holder and face it directly aft. I was able to install mine at a similar angle, then rotate them to about a 15 degree angle out (instead of 45 degrees) at the back before securing them down.

Rotating them pushed against the plastic dividers, but not too bad. I'm guessing that in the 320 you can't get them quite as straight as on the 340. I centered them in the inner 1/2 of the gunwales, in the middle of the non-skid surface. I placed them just forward of a section where the thickness of the deck changed (when viewed from beneath, you could see the additional wood which was fiberglassed in). I put them in the thick area, but as far back in that area as I could. They are about a foot forward of the curved area (where it curves down).

The hardest part was drilling through the deck. I placed the rod holders on the deck upside down to show me the angle at which to drill. Initially, I had to drill at a more vertical angle to make sure the guide bit didn't slip or travel. The hard part is that the deck is thicker than the depth of the hole saw, especially when held at an angle. I drilled until the hole saw bottomed out. Sometimes a chunk would break off in the hole saw. I had to disassemble it to get the chunks out. When they didn't break off, I had to chisel out the sawed off portion to get the hole saw back in there to complete the hole.

Once the hole was started, I was able to increase the angle of the hole saw without fear of ruining the surface of the deck. Once the holes were complete, I fit the rod holders in and drilled screw holes. I painted the wood with 4200 sealant (like painting with tar). I also put 4200 in the screw holes, and all around the base of the rod holder. I lowered the rod holders in, rotated them to the desired angle (re-aligned with the screw holes), and screwed them down.

'bout a 2 or 3 hour job for two, including clean up.
 
Alex F said:
The way I understand that the primary issue with shower pumps going bad is the lack of check valve (at least in mine). Mine has a tube about 3/4' diameter that simply connects to the pump and discharges the water out. As soon as the pump stops the remaining water in the tube slowly goes back to reservior and kicks off the pump again. The cicle repeats quite fast. I didn't time it, but it felt like 3-5min. I was wandering if you guys have the check valve in your setup.

The strangest part is that the backup sump pump does have the check valve. So, I got the same part from MM and will add it to my main shower pump.

Alex.
Click to expand...
Thanks Alex - I do have the check valve - but am going to look it over more closely. I tend to agree this is part of the problem. You decribed my issue - there is another check valve further in line as well. On the weekend - I put my hose into the discharge hose and was able to get water to flush out at the thru hull - but the galley sink seemed to empty even better than the water hose and it's a pure gravity system flowing into the common manifold. . When the pump ran - I only get slow flow at the thru huil - dribbles /runs down the boat - no pressure. In fact - it did not keep up with the shower and I overflowed the sump box and the back-up kicked in. I have a complete new sump kit coming (warranty) - but I don't feel it will make a difference. Will be hooking up the hose again I seems something wants to block the flow. The other thing I noticed was that even the back-up sump pump seemed to struggle to get water out. I would have expected a quick work of the overflow. I will keep working this issue. Ray
 
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