Rattletrap
New Member
Lake Winnipesaukee NH ....sorry we always call it "Winni"
mquiet
Well-Known Member
Rattletrap. I used to be on winni for years. We had a 340. I know you don't need the twins but I found the public docks to be right sometimes and the twin screws made fitting in a tight spot easier. Check the lake market in VT. Lots of Searay's over there. Good luck on your search.
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mjoplin
Member
Will be following this one. I have a 2005 280DA and this is one of my next projects. Seevee, I have been looking at that wrap around seatback and it looks like the small headliner panel immediately below the front of (where the cabin light switch is mounted) it is going to have to come out. I am assuming there are through bolts with nuts/washers holding the seatback in place. Whatever is back there, it is gonna be tight and all done by feel.
todd3683
New Member
- Aug 3, 2016
- 19
- Boat Info
- 280 Sundancer 2002, 5E Kohler Generator
- Engines
- Twin 4.3L Mercruiser EFI w/ Alpha One Drives
So I just had a compression test done on the 2002 280DA I've been looking at. Not sure if my question is necessarily specific to the 280, but thought I could get an idea of the numbers I should see for the 4.3L EFIs with all of the owners in here. Let me know if I should post elsewhere. The port engine appears fine. Starboard has some inconsistencies and seem a bit low.
Port
1:* 165**** 2:** 150
3:* 150**** 4:** 160
5:* 150**** 6:** 160
Stbd:
1:* 115**** 2:* 140
3:* 145**** 4:* 110
5:* 125**** 6:* 120
The owner is going to be doing a leak down test to figure out what is going on and I believe will fix whatever the issues are. But is this a red flag that I should just run from or wait and see? I just don't want to purchase something I'm going to be rebuilding in the near future. The engines have 630 hrs on them. Thanks for any feedback.
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Port
1:* 165**** 2:** 150
3:* 150**** 4:** 160
5:* 150**** 6:** 160
Stbd:
1:* 115**** 2:* 140
3:* 145**** 4:* 110
5:* 125**** 6:* 120
The owner is going to be doing a leak down test to figure out what is going on and I believe will fix whatever the issues are. But is this a red flag that I should just run from or wait and see? I just don't want to purchase something I'm going to be rebuilding in the near future. The engines have 630 hrs on them. Thanks for any feedback.
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btyman11
Member
Recently sold, I had a 2001 280 4.3 EFIs that I surveyed a few years ago with 275 hours and the numbers were all 185-200psi when done.
todd3683
New Member
- Aug 3, 2016
- 19
- Boat Info
- 280 Sundancer 2002, 5E Kohler Generator
- Engines
- Twin 4.3L Mercruiser EFI w/ Alpha One Drives
Thanks. Are you suggesting that even the port engine is low? Everywhere I've read, it seems like the more important factor is the consistency between cylinders and not as much how high the numbers are as long as they are closer to mid 100s. So does it sound like these engines are on their way out?
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scoflaw
Well-Known Member
- Aug 10, 2011
- 6,395
- Boat Info
- 1999 Powerquest legend 260 sx 502 mag
2005 Baja 242 islander 496
- Engines
- 502 mpi Bravo 1
496 mag B1
absolutely....move on....btyman11 #'s he posted are what you should be looking for. I've had cracked vortec heads that read higher than your numbers. Even numbers are good, but low even numbers mean that your motor is evenly worn out. I wouldn't touch it
btyman11
Member
Yeah something is not right. Maybe worn but I dont think an engine with 600hrs would be worn and have low compression like that.
todd3683
New Member
- Aug 3, 2016
- 19
- Boat Info
- 280 Sundancer 2002, 5E Kohler Generator
- Engines
- Twin 4.3L Mercruiser EFI w/ Alpha One Drives
You really can't lube those cables, however you may want to consider replacing engine to drive shift cables first, those usually go before the helm cables go
threejays
Member
Hey guys,
I want to re-caulk my rub rails and transom. The question I have is what kind of caulk should I use? The other question I have is the color of caulk ? the rub rails are clear , but my transom and vents are white. The Searay Dealer says to use white 5200 on everything. What do you guys have on your 280’s?
Thanks,
Jon
I want to re-caulk my rub rails and transom. The question I have is what kind of caulk should I use? The other question I have is the color of caulk ? the rub rails are clear , but my transom and vents are white. The Searay Dealer says to use white 5200 on everything. What do you guys have on your 280’s?
Thanks,
Jon
JimT
Well-Known Member
- Jul 7, 2009
- 1,910
- Boat Info
- 2010 330 Sundancer
- Engines
- T-350mags w/BIIIs & Axius, 5.0 kw Kohler
I would use white 4200. 5200 creates a permanent bond. You will have a hard time getting it off.
Seevee
Member
- Dec 3, 2015
- 238
- Boat Info
- 280 Sundancer 2004
- Engines
- 4.3 Merc Twins, Alpha One, Kohler 5kw
JON,
Not sure it's a good idea to use 5200 on "everything". First I'd never use it on cosmetic parts, like the hull and vents. For the hull and cosmetic parts I use West Systems GFlex G655 for any repairs where there are cracks or chips. I color it with white pigment. After I sand it down, I apply a gel coat that has been color matched to my boat, and it turns our perfect.
The rub rail is a hard material in the middle of the supports to resist bumping into dock poles and things. Not sure how to replace that and bet it would be a job. If you're touching up where the metal that is part of the channel that has the rub rail, I'd use the above, or if minor, just gel coat.
5200 is a very strong adhesive/sealer, which is not the product for cleaning up around the rub rails and transom. It's extremely hard to remove, if there's issues. I only use it for underwater things that need sealing like a transducer.
As long as you're not using it any place that is exposed to sunlight, that will be fine. It's not UV stable.
Another note about 5200... there are actually VERY few places where this is a good choice. Essentially, any parts that you may possibly want/need to remove/take apart down the road... don't use it. Actually, even underwater parts - there are better options that are just as good of a sealant, but won't possibly rip the gelcoat off during removal.
Seevee
Member
- Dec 3, 2015
- 238
- Boat Info
- 280 Sundancer 2004
- Engines
- 4.3 Merc Twins, Alpha One, Kohler 5kw
There's a LOT of choices other than Sierra, Quicksilver, or Mercury. I paid ~$5 for my last order or Sierra, good enough for me.
Also, it's way more important to change them with the oil, regularly, prefer 2x a year but for sure minimum annually.
Henry Boyd
Well-Known Member
- Apr 24, 2007
- 6,014
- Boat Info
- ‘09 Sabre 38 Hardtop Express “Serenity”
- Engines
- Volvo D6 w/IPS450 Pods
On some engines, like our 496, the oil filter is mounted "upside down". The marine specific filters supposedly have a flapper valve that prevents the filter from draining oil when it is removed. I don't know for sure having always left oil changes to the boatyard techs. I do know that in ten years of ownership and oil changes, and multiple Merc service people, I have never been presented with an oil soaked bilge post oil/filter change. An automotive oil filter probably does not have this feature. So depending on how your filter(s) is mounted, you may want to consider the trade off between clean up, and non marine oil filters.
Henry
