Official 280 Sundancer Thread

[Lazy Daze]

Has anyone had to replace their Engine Coupler? On my 2003 280 I have this issue that I thought was a spun prop hub. After taking the prop off and taking it apart, we realized the prop isn't the issue. After googling I find some people having issues with their mercruiser Alpha 1 Engine couplers. This year has been a huge pain and a ton of money. Hoping I am missing something. When I go to plane off, the port side engine starts running away as if it is cavitating and I have to back down on it and go harder on the starboard. Sometimes while on plane and cruising the same thing happens. I seriously don't want to have to haul the engines again, as we had to replace the starboard engine twice this season already.

Unfortunately it sounds like you are correct. Typically, the type of props you have (with that plastic insert) don't really "spin" the way the older, rubber hubbed ones would. Meaning, these newer style, while they tend to last much longer, when they go... they go. No "in between". It does sound like it's your coupler. Generally speaking, the couplers used in your setup are pretty stout and aren't really "known" for spinning. But, of course, they're a mechanical thing and anything is possible. I wish I could give you a better (more hopeful) response - I can certainly understand the predicament you're in - especially since you said you've had the stbd engine out twice! On the plus side, you're probably getting to be a pro on yanking an engine out!

 

[Seevee]

Unfortunately it sounds like you are correct. Typically, the type of props you have (with that plastic insert) don't really "spin" the way the older, rubber hubbed ones would. Meaning, these newer style, while they tend to last much longer, when they go... they go. No "in between". It does sound like it's your coupler. Generally speaking, the couplers used in your setup are pretty stout and aren't really "known" for spinning. But, of course, they're a mechanical thing and anything is possible. I wish I could give you a better (more hopeful) response - I can certainly understand the predicament you're in - especially since you said you've had the stbd engine out twice! On the plus side, you're probably getting to be a pro on yanking an engine out!

Dennis,

Totally off topic, but is there a way to find out more about the sponsors, like you. Is there a link to your website, or info... am I missing something?

I'd prefer to support our sponsors and members in the business.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Seevee - thank you very much for thinking of me. I do think it's very important to support the small guy in this age of "box stores" and impersonal service. But the reason you don't see a link in my signature is that I'm really just on this site as a boater - like everyone else. I just happen to work at a SR dealership and can offer advice that most people wouldn't have access to. I enjoy simply being on the site and asking questions/giving advice/helping others just as everyone one else does here. There's a few occasions where people have bought stuff from me, but it's not something I seek out. In fact, I encourage them to try and find the product locally, first. If all else fails, I'm happy to help where I can. But, thank you again, for the sentiment - it's nice to hear this kind of thing! :smt001

To more directly answer your question, at the top of this page is a tab for "CSR Sponsors". One of them, BOE Marine, is the owner of this forum.

 

[TheGoodLife]

Dennis,

I didn't realize that that you work for sea ray. Do you know anything about the forward EIM and switch pad? My switch pad has been acting up, when I push the Nav lights the horn might blow or the anchor light only will turn on. Also if I turn on the windlass the controls don't work and randomly turn on other lights on the switch pad. I am trying to figure out if this is a switch pad problem or the EIM. Also do you know where you can get either of them anymore. I have read mixed reviews on their availability.
Thanks
-Bill

 

[equilit]

Marlin Windlass Gypsy:

I cannot believe that I let this go on so long! We have had Thistle Du for a little over a year now and have been messing with the original marlin windlass every time we go out. I read this entire thread (took a full year) and many other posts and came to the conclusion that the spring for the pressure finger would correct my troubles. Replaced the spring about a month ago and if anything my troubles continued to get worse. I started a conversation with the folks from P2marine and was on the fence about whether to replace the windlass or try a replacement gypsy. Along the way, I learned a bit about different proof chain and how to identify it; sweat a little bit over 6mm and 7mm both being 1/4" and using the same gypsy. Finally decided that is must be the gypsy (which is basically what the expert told me) and ordered one. Before I tell you how it worked out let me first say that I have stared at the chain sitting in the gypsy pictured here many many times and could never figure out why this is a good design. If you look closely, you can see the chain pockets don't line up top to bottom. I have been telling myself that some wise old windlass engineer built this thing so that the chain will catch in one of those pockets whether it's rolling or tangled or whatever. Just because it doesn't look like it should work doesn't mean that it won't ( I also own a rotary powered car as example).
Well the box arrived and when I pulled the gypsy out to have a look, it was impossible not to laugh about the obvious answer. I am a bone head and the two halves of my old gypsy spun and no longer line up with the chain. The new gypsy picks up both sides of the link and holds firm during operation.

It would seem that the halves continued to spin after I replaced the pressure finger spring which made it seem as though the spring made the problem worse. Next time I look at something so simple and say to myself (I don't see how that could work), I think I'll go ask an expert right away.

Eric

 

[Lazy Daze]

Dennis,

I didn't realize that that you work for sea ray. Do you know anything about the forward EIM and switch pad? My switch pad has been acting up, when I push the Nav lights the horn might blow or the anchor light only will turn on. Also if I turn on the windlass the controls don't work and randomly turn on other lights on the switch pad. I am trying to figure out if this is a switch pad problem or the EIM. Also do you know where you can get either of them anymore. I have read mixed reviews on their availability.
Thanks
-Bill

Hi Bill,

For better or worse, we've actually had very limited experience with this issue at our store. I do know that it exists and we have dealt with it on occasion, but not nearly to the extent that possibly some other places have. The times that we have, though, the "fix" varies. Even though these electronic items are no longer being used by Sea Ray (haven't for some time, now), we sometimes were able to get replacements through them - but it's sort of hit or miss as to what they still have stock of. Sometimes it's just the keypad, sometimes both pieces have to be replaced. I would encourage you to talk with your dealer about that and have them properly diagnose what is wrong and then decide if they need to go to Sea Ray to try and find parts (not just checking inventory - actually calling), or offer another solution.

Other times, converting back to traditional switches is the fix. Now, I "think" I've read other threads here on CSR about possibly being able to get replacements through DigiKey (I think that is the company). But it's been a while since I've read about whether or not they still do that (if, in fact, I'm remembering the correct company name). I know you should be able to search on this forum and find other threads about this - possibly you can find the ones about DigiKey, too?

Good luck - I know this is a frustrating issue. Computer issues (which these things, essentially, are) usually are frustrating!

 

[Seevee]

Hi Bill,

For better or worse, we've actually had very limited experience with this issue at our store. I do know that it exists and we have dealt with it on occasion, but not nearly to the extent that possibly some other places have. The times that we have, though, the "fix" varies. Even though these electronic items are no longer being used by Sea Ray (haven't for some time, now), we sometimes were able to get replacements through them - but it's sort of hit or miss as to what they still have stock of. Sometimes it's just the keypad, sometimes both pieces have to be replaced. I would encourage you to talk with your dealer about that and have them properly diagnose what is wrong and then decide if they need to go to Sea Ray to try and find parts (not just checking inventory - actually calling), or offer another solution.

Other times, converting back to traditional switches is the fix. Now, I "think" I've read other threads here on CSR about possibly being able to get replacements through DigiKey (I think that is the company). But it's been a while since I've read about whether or not they still do that (if, in fact, I'm remembering the correct company name). I know you should be able to search on this forum and find other threads about this - possibly you can find the ones about DigiKey, too?

Good luck - I know this is a frustrating issue. Computer issues (which these things, essentially, are) usually are frustrating!

Good info, and yes, there's a lot of us that would like to see a better design. The whole concept of the pads it lousy engineering, and a PITA to fix. Also, the lights burn out and you can't tell if the item is on or off. I suspect these could be changes, anyone done that?

I suspect the cost of rewiring in individual switches, like it should be, would be quite expensive.

I've thought of totally redoing my panel to make room for displays and would consider switches at that time. Not sure it wouldn't be cheaper to just buy a different boat. Love the little 280 Dancer, but it does have a few negatives.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Good info, and yes, there's a lot of us that would like to see a better design. The whole concept of the pads it lousy engineering, and a PITA to fix. Also, the lights burn out and you can't tell if the item is on or off. I suspect these could be changes, anyone done that?

I suspect the cost of rewiring in individual switches, like it should be, would be quite expensive.

I've thought of totally redoing my panel to make room for displays and would consider switches at that time. Not sure it wouldn't be cheaper to just buy a different boat. Love the little 280 Dancer, but it does have a few negatives.

I like the looks and the "intended" functionality of the switch pad but unfortunately, especially in realms like the marine world, some companies have had a hard time staying in business and it makes it extremely hard to get parts down the road. But, the good news, is that switching to switches isn't all that hard or expensive (in the grand scheme of things). When you remove the switchpad and the EIM (the part with the fuses), you're left with traditional wiring. There's no fancy wiring that needs to be done or long runs of wiring. In other words, you have normal wiring coming to the EIM so just connect those wires to the new switches. Toggle switches, like on the newer Sea Ray's, take up a little less room than the older style, rocker switches - which makes it easier to fit all your switches into a certain area.

With a little thought and design work, you should have plenty of real estate to install a new burl-wood dash panel (possibly a different shape from the current ones). The new panel(s) could be pre-cut with holes for the switches and even have the switch descriptions engraved into the panel... backlighted if you want, too. You might consider taking this opportunity to upgrade to a "black box" VHF where the only thing you would see is the remote (which has an LCD display and controls on it) - the "brains" mount out of sight. That would give you even more room to re-design the dash. It could turn out to be a fun project!

 

[Seevee]

Dennis,

That project is in my mind, but not sure I wish to tackle it. I'm sure I could do it, as I've to a lot of work redesigning aircraft panels and fabricating them, mounting new radios. Very similar, exept the aluminum we use in aviation may not be appropriate for boats.

I'd really need to do some research and fine out what switches and indicators would be best, as I'm not up to speed on that. And I'd probably hire one of my guys to do the grunt work.

But, it would SIGNIFICANTLY improve the panel, no doubt about it.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Dennis,

That project is in my mind, but not sure I wish to tackle it. I'm sure I could do it, as I've to a lot of work redesigning aircraft panels and fabricating them, mounting new radios. Very similar, exept the aluminum we use in aviation may not be appropriate for boats.

I'd really need to do some research and fine out what switches and indicators would be best, as I'm not up to speed on that. And I'd probably hire one of my guys to do the grunt work.

But, it would SIGNIFICANTLY improve the panel, no doubt about it.

A job for another time - yup, I get it. But let me just throw this out and you can file it... wherever you want to! :smt001 A few years ago I contemplated changing the dash of my 260DA (used an electronic switchpad) BEFORE I ran into a problem like you are. I was going to have a new panel made through FP Marine, which turned out to be pretty straight forward - I would have had them either use a burl-wood plastic panel that matched my existing ones, or use a contrasting color - I've seen that on other SR's and it looks nice. Like you, I didn't feel like doing tons of research on switches so I decided on just using the current toggle switches that SR is using. Turns out they weren't even that expensive and they are very nice switches (the tips light up, too). In the end, I ended up selling the boat (one of those "offers I can't refuse") so I never got a chance to do it. But it wasn't going to be that hard and the "design/research" phase was pretty straight forward, too. I think this is one of those tasks that looks daunting, but once you get into it you realize it isn't that bad.

 

[Seevee]

Dennis,

I'm sure you're right regarding not "that" hard.

If I were absolutely going to keep this boat, I'd do it. While it's doing a pretty good job for the needs now, I could be tempted with another boat, perhaps a bit bigger, faster and one that I could perhaps take one or two really long trips with... like up down the west coast of FL across Okeechobee to the east side and fool around there for a bit before coming home... or perhaps a trip over the Tom Bigbee up to the Ohio, Mississippi, explore the midwest wherever. For those trips a minimum of a 31 or perhaps a 37 would be in order.

Also, I have a partner in this boat, and his business is building fast and gut feeling he'll want a bigger boat, as he often takes out 8 people on the 280, which is a LOT.

BUT, I kinda like a project now and then, and the panel would be fun and satisfying.

 

[Orion7_11]

Hi all I recently acquired a 2006 280da this spring. I've been using this site as a great reference point however I just had something happen that I can't figure out why they would be related.

I wanted to mark my anchor rope so I would know how much line was out. I keep the boat in dry storage so I was going to run out line and mark/measure on the ground but the windlass wasn't working. It would not drop or retrieve line. So I thought I had a battery issue. I came back to gauges and checked voltage and it was 13v on both port and starboard. The batteries are only about 8-9 months old. Interstate brand. So on a whim I bumped the engines. Port fired good and strong but starboard just clicked once and never turned over. So it was late in the evening at this point. I plugged the boat into shore power and turned on the battery charger and left for the evening. The next morning I tried again with engine and windlass and both just click. I checked all battery terminals, no corrosion at all. I checked the slave solenoid on the engine and it's good. I checked the master solenoid on starter and I'm pretty sure it's good also. Do you guys think I should swap batteries with one of the port batteries?

i also tried bumping the generator and it turns over fine. If I'm not mistaken the starboard battery is used for the genny and starboard engine. So I'm not really sure what the cause is unless I just happen to have two systems fail at the same time. Solenoid on windlass and starter?

ive been using the boat every weekend for the past few months and have not had any issues with either the windlass or engine during that time.

 

[dvx216]

I would be getting a volt meter and check battery voltage in question then turn on the charger and check the voltage on it at the batteries

 

[eweise]

Is there a setting on the SmartCraft gauges that will show engine rpm synchronization? If so, how can I set that up?

 

[scoflaw]

Hi all I recently acquired a 2006 280da this spring. I've been using this site as a great reference point however I just had something happen that I can't figure out why they would be related.

I wanted to mark my anchor rope so I would know how much line was out. I keep the boat in dry storage so I was going to run out line and mark/measure on the ground but the windlass wasn't working. It would not drop or retrieve line. So I thought I had a battery issue. I came back to gauges and checked voltage and it was 13v on both port and starboard. The batteries are only about 8-9 months old. Interstate brand. So on a whim I bumped the engines. Port fired good and strong but starboard just clicked once and never turned over. So it was late in the evening at this point. I plugged the boat into shore power and turned on the battery charger and left for the evening. The next morning I tried again with engine and windlass and both just click. I checked all battery terminals, no corrosion at all. I checked the slave solenoid on the engine and it's good. I checked the master solenoid on starter and I'm pretty sure it's good also. Do you guys think I should swap batteries with one of the port batteries?

i also tried bumping the generator and it turns over fine. If I'm not mistaken the starboard battery is used for the genny and starboard engine. So I'm not really sure what the cause is unless I just happen to have two systems fail at the same time. Solenoid on windlass and starter?

ive been using the boat every weekend for the past few months and have not had any issues with either the windlass or engine during that time.

Don't have an answer for you but it's starboard and genie and the windlass is also on that battery switch

 

[Woody]

Is there a setting on the SmartCraft gauges that will show engine rpm synchronization? If so, how can I set that up?

You can display the rpm digitally but the synch will still be up to you and the throttle levers.

 

[Sanderaw]

Has anyone replaced the factory horn on their 280DA with a air horn, any tips would be appreciated (2007 / 280)

 

[Sanderaw]

I also have an issue with my Windlass, it only operates in the down position, I have to manually pull it back up??? Any Ideas

 

[eweise]

You can display the rpm digitally but the synch will still be up to you and the throttle levers.

I figured it wouldn't work.

 

[Henry Boyd]

I also have an issue with my Windlass, it only operates in the down position, I have to manually pull it back up??? Any Ideas

I don't mean to be short on this one, but the topic has been beaten to death here. So to bottom line it:

Possible causes, most likely to least:

Bad controller,
Bad motor,
Wiring defect

Solution path:
Contact Imtra the us importer of the Lofrans product line by telephone. Talk to a CS rep (first rate help) for method to diagnose cause. Because motor is hideously expensive, and a bear to re install. Control box is much less expensive, but still no picnic to work on.

In the meantime read some of the prior posts on the topic.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD