Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Glad to hear the pads are available. Just make sure it's a pad problem not a bad pump or connection.
 
Update:
Rather that post a bunch of specifics about this particular boat, I'll post in my thread on Shopping for a 280 Sundancer. I'll make posts here that would be beneficial to other members. Thanks again for the help.
 
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Seevee said:
You're absolutely right, and I try to put a thx on every message, however, I really do appreciate help, as I am new at this boat. I hope I'm not sounding demanding, however, there have been some comments that don't work or aren't applicable to this boat (as SeaRay made a lot of small changes), and I try to point out, or I don't understand. And it's frustrating when the manual is weak and confusing at times.

And, I have a strong mechanical background, so I'm letting some of that influence what I read hear. The comments you quoted was about agreeing with another poster that feels like I do regarding the integrated switch panel, as I've been through that concept before. That's not a small deal, I feel it's a big disadvantage. I can learn more about this panel, and will decide if I can live with it. I did find a lot of them on the market, so replacements are available. I did find the water pump switch, was just foreign and looked like a fuse, and I did get confused with that. Sorry if I offended anyone.


Help IS certainly appreciated.
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:smt038
 
OWNERS MANUAL ON LINE?

All, where can I get a digital copy of an owners manual for a 03 280 Dancer? Not the supplement that Searay has on line, but the full manual. Could scan one, but a lot of time.

I like paperless.
 
Seevee said:
Themikehyde,

Thx, but your link is for Wellcraft.

Searays manuals are the supplement... much smaller than the "real" manual.
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This is the only thing I found at the SR site for 2003 280DA. I purchased a new ‘05 280DA with all the manuals and stuff. My owners manual says ‘supplement ‘on it too. I think that’s all you’re going to find.

Owners Manual
http://www.searay.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/Company1729/_23_618201091036AM.pdf

Parts Manual
http://www.searay.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/Company1729/1C1_24_74DEIPR6YGV.pdf
 
Danny Troy said:
The JR Marine kit is a shortcut, and the drive doesn't have to be removed. That said, it doesn't look at all like a fun job, and I can see someone abandoning the job and calling in a mechanic to finish the job using the removal method. If you're interested here's a link to the step-by-step repair. There may be a video on this out there also....
http://www.jrmarine.com/instructions.htm
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I used JR Marine to do this on one of my outdrives last year. It was a bunch of work but I was successful. I have the boat out now and am going to do the other outdrive. I'm guessing that I will be twice as fast on the second drive since I have done it once now and I still have the special tools from JR Marine. The owner at JR Marine is super cool and will answer any questions that you have. His steering pin is also way better then the stock POS and cost half as much. This will save me about $2500 from paying marina to do the job.
 
I did my bravo 3 last year. Made my own cover plate and bought a stainless pin. It actually was not as bad as I was thinking it would be.
 
MichaelRaasch said:
I used JR Marine to do this on one of my outdrives last year. It was a bunch of work but I was successful. I have the boat out now and am going to do the other outdrive. I'm guessing that I will be twice as fast on the second drive since I have done it once now and I still have the special tools from JR Marine. The owner at JR Marine is super cool and will answer any questions that you have. His steering pin is also way better then the stock POS and cost half as much. This will save me about $2500 from paying marina to do the job.
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Just a bit confused, what job are you describing, and what drives do you have? $2500 in labor is a LOT of work.
 
Swivel pin replacement. They can wear out and allow water to enter ti enter the engine room. You can pull the engines to replace the pin or go the JR Marine approach. Merc endorses the JR approach but I pulled the engines instead of cutting into the gimbal housing.

http://www.jrmarine.com/instructions.htm
 
MichaelRaasch said:
I used JR Marine to do this on one of my outdrives last year. It was a bunch of work but I was successful. I have the boat out now and am going to do the other outdrive. I'm guessing that I will be twice as fast on the second drive since I have done it once now and I still have the special tools from JR Marine. The owner at JR Marine is super cool and will answer any questions that you have. His steering pin is also way better then the stock POS and cost half as much. This will save me about $2500 from paying marina to do the job.
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That's only partially correct. If you replace the gimbal ring, both the replacement pin and u bolt clamp are larger on the replacement Bravo gimbal ring.

As for your labor cost, assuming $100 per hour that's 25 hours. I had an engine pulled, all the hoses replaced, starter replaced, and a new transom assembly installed in fewer hours.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Henry Boyd said:
That's only partially correct. If you replace the gimbal ring, both the replacement pin and u bolt clamp are larger on the replacement Bravo gimbal ring.

As for your labor cost, assuming $100 per hour that's 25 hours. I had an engine pulled, all the hoses replaced, starter replaced, and a new transom assembly installed in fewer hours.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Click to expand...

MichaelRaasch has twins in his boat.
 
Henry Boyd said:
Your point is? He had already done one side and doing the second would be cheaper than the $2500 his marina quoted him for that job.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Click to expand...
I agree with you that 25hrs is too much for one drive and I read it as though it was his savings for the work he did on both drives....you can read it anyway you want though.
 
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