Official 280 Sundancer Thread

That repair can be done without engine removal. JR Marine has a step by step video of the repair procedure.
 
Not getting into the debate here. There are different ways to repair that. I chose to pull the drive, pull the engine, replace the transom assembly. It never leaked a drop after that, and steering was nice and tight. Other than the expense, no regrets.
Mike
 
If I had that situation, I'd probably go the JR Marine route. I'm a real DIY'er, and have the time and the tools. That said, it sure doesn't look like a fun job, and I can see running into complications. Still, I'd go that route first.
 
The ring is toast with that crack. It might be welded but it will take a real pro. You might find that an entire transom assembly might be a better choice. Even with an engine R&R the cost of breaking down the old transom assembly and replacing worn parts is pretty much a wash with a new assembly.
enry
 
Just curious. If the engine would need to be pulled, what would a fair price be for the removal and reinstall?
 
Electrical Question: 2003 Vintage
What happens if a switch goes bad in the "cluster pane;" with all the light switches, etc.? Can one replace the switch only or do you need the whole panel?

Also, is there a good source for light bulbs? A search of a few of them, using the manual replacement guide, shows nothing.

Thanks
 
Not sure what light bulbs you are asking about; nav lights, cabin lighting, dash, etc.?

The switch pads are integral units and individual switches can not be changed. Also the switch pad is linked to an EIM (electronic interface module) that does the actual circuit switching and protection. If a switch is not working on the pad it could be caused by a bad component on the switch pad, bad component in the EIM, or that the micro circuit breaker for the circuit in the EIM has tripped.

I can't recall whether the led on the switch pad continues to light if the breaker is tripped on the EIM. I'd check that first. Keep in mind the breaker covers the circuit between the EIM and the switched item. For example if the arch lights aren't working, and it is the arch light breaker that has tripped re-setting the breaker won't fix the underlying short that caused the breaker to trip in the first place.

If it is not a breaker, or something with the item circuit, it is the switch pad EIM combo. In that case you may be sol because these are out of production and no one has yet to step up with a repair, or rebuilding, service.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Henry Boyd said:
Not sure what light bulbs you are asking about; nav lights, cabin lighting, dash, etc.?

The switch pads are integral units and individual switches can not be changed. Also the switch pad is linked to an EIM (electronic interface module) that does the actual circuit switching and protection. If a switch is not working on the pad it could be caused by a bad component on the switch pad, bad component in the EIM, or that the micro circuit breaker for the circuit in the EIM has tripped.

I can't recall whether the led on the switch pad continues to light if the breaker is tripped on the EIM. I'd check that first. Keep in mind the breaker covers the circuit between the EIM and the switched item. For example if the arch lights aren't working, and it is the arch light breaker that has tripped re-setting the breaker won't fix the underlying short that caused the breaker to trip in the first place.

If it is not a breaker, or something with the item circuit, it is the switch pad EIM combo. In that case you may be sol because these are out of production and no one has yet to step up with a repair, or rebuilding, service.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Click to expand...

So what is an option if the switch fails? New separate gauge? That would be a HUGE issue. When did they get away from this stupid panel thing? (personally I hate integrated things).
 
Seevee said:
So what is an option if the switch fails? New separate gauge? That would be a HUGE issue. When did they get away from this stupid panel thing? (personally I hate integrated things).
Click to expand...

"gauge", what gauge?

If the switchpad / EIM fails you are out of luck and left to finding a replacement on eBay, or from a salvage yard. To my knowledge the switchpad/EIM design is used in one form or another across most of the Sea Ray boats (not sure on the yacht class vessels) that have been built since the mid nineties.

The technology is hardly stupid as it reduces the amount and complexity of wiring. And the concept has also been used in automotive applications for a couple decades as well. The initial reaction is to call the use of the EIM as a cheapening of the product. However, reducing the number of wires and wire connections on a boat is a good thong from a maintenance perspective. Fewer things to break, and fewer diagnostic headaches. At $ 80-$90 per hour for a boat tech it does not take long chasing a hard to find short for the benefit of this technology to become apparent. If the parts were still available this wouldn't be a big deal.

Henry
 
Henry Boyd said:
"gauge", what gauge?

If the switchpad / EIM fails you are out of luck and left to finding a replacement on eBay, or from a salvage yard. To my knowledge the switchpad/EIM design is used in one form or another across most of the Sea Ray boats (not sure on the yacht class vessels) that have been built since the mid nineties.

The technology is hardly stupid as it reduces the amount and complexity of wiring. And the concept has also been used in automotive applications for a couple decades as well. The initial reaction is to call the use of the EIM as a cheapening of the product. However, reducing the number of wires and wire connections on a boat is a good thong from a maintenance perspective. Fewer things to break, and fewer diagnostic headaches. At $ 80-$90 per hour for a boat tech it does not take long chasing a hard to find short for the benefit of this technology to become apparent. If the parts were still available this wouldn't be a big deal.

Henry
Click to expand...
Yes, but the parts aren't available so now it is a big deal. Who would care if the boat had extra wires, then it would be a quick fix. There's only a dozen switches between the 2 pads, so we're talking 24 extra wires ? I'm sure Searay did this cause it cost less and then not producing extras for failures is a complete joke on the consumer.
 
scoflaw said:
Yes, but the parts aren't available so now it is a big deal. Who would care if the boat had extra wires, then it would be a quick fix. There's only a dozen switches between the 2 pads, so we're talking 24 extra wires ? I'm sure Searay did this cause it cost less and then not producing extras for failures is a complete joke on the consumer.
Click to expand...

I totally agree. It's not simpler, it's more complex at the savings of a few wires. It's dirt simple to change a switch, I'd bet a pad change would start at $1000, if you could find the parts. I'm not in favor of this at all. Been through that in the aircraft business and saw the prices of maintenance more than quadruple with the integrated systems.

I'm going to have to rethink this a bit. Need a solution before I commit.

(BTW, I found the water pump switch... on the helm, looks like a fuse)
 
Seevee said:
I totally agree. It's not simpler, it's more complex at the savings of a few wires. It's dirt simple to change a switch, I'd bet a pad change would start at $1000, if you could find the parts. I'm not in favor of this at all. Been through that in the aircraft business and saw the prices of maintenance more than quadruple with the integrated systems.

I'm going to have to rethink this a bit. Need a solution before I commit.

(BTW, I found the water pump switch... on the helm, looks like a fuse)
Click to expand...

The point is not that it is simpler to change a switch, but that fewer switches, connections, relays, and fuse blocks mean fewer places to corrode and cause problems. A boat is not an airplane, or a car the environment a boat operates in is by its nature destructive.

Since you think boat wiring is too complex, suggest you consider an antique wooden sailboat, nothing more complex than some wood and rope.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Seevee said:
I totally agree. It's not simpler, it's more complex at the savings of a few wires. It's dirt simple to change a switch, I'd bet a pad change would start at $1000, if you could find the parts. I'm not in favor of this at all. Been through that in the aircraft business and saw the prices of maintenance more than quadruple with the integrated systems.

I'm going to have to rethink this a bit. Need a solution before I commit.

(BTW, I found the water pump switch... on the helm, looks like a fuse)
Click to expand...

You didn't find the water pump switch you were directed to it. You have been asking a lot of questions and almost demanding answers the past few days. If you want continued help I suggest you say show a little appreciation.
 
JimT said:
You didn't find the water pump switch you were directed to it. You have been asking a lot of questions and almost demanding answers the past few days. If you want continued help I suggest you say show a little appreciation.
Click to expand...

You're absolutely right, and I try to put a thx on every message, however, I really do appreciate help, as I am new at this boat. I hope I'm not sounding demanding, however, there have been some comments that don't work or aren't applicable to this boat (as SeaRay made a lot of small changes), and I try to point out, or I don't understand. And it's frustrating when the manual is weak and confusing at times.

And, I have a strong mechanical background, so I'm letting some of that influence what I read hear. The comments you quoted was about agreeing with another poster that feels like I do regarding the integrated switch panel, as I've been through that concept before. That's not a small deal, I feel it's a big disadvantage. I can learn more about this panel, and will decide if I can live with it. I did find a lot of them on the market, so replacements are available. I did find the water pump switch, was just foreign and looked like a fuse, and I did get confused with that. Sorry if I offended anyone.


Help IS certainly appreciated.
 
Henry Boyd said:
The point is not that it is simpler to change a switch, but that fewer switches, connections, relays, and fuse blocks mean fewer places to corrode and cause problems. A boat is not an airplane, or a car the environment a boat operates in is by its nature destructive.

Since you think boat wiring is too complex, suggest you consider an antique wooden sailboat, nothing more complex than some wood and rope.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Click to expand...

Thanks Henry,

However, I feel the same way as scoflaw does. There are the same number of switches and breakers. I like the individual switch/breaker concept better, perhaps just a preference. Easier to trouble shoot and way easier and cheaper to replace.

There are no "perfect" boats, so we decide to live with the goods and bads of the boat we buy. This is part of the boat ownership. Your comment about an antique wood sailboat IS funny.

So, in learning how to deal with the switch panel, what would you do if a switch on your panel failed? Assume breaker checks ok and is getting power.

Thanks.
 
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