Official 280 Sundancer Thread

SAshton said:
Rock Auto IAC are only 40.00. Are these just as good as Mercury for 1/4 the price?
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I don't remember the eBay seller name for the water pressure sensor. Also I bought tha IAC from rock auto as a back up but never had to install it. I wouldn't be surprised if they both came from the same supplier. Mercruiser is known for their price mark-ups.
 
Our offer has been accepted on a 2001 280 and the items identified in the survey are being addressed, so now I've got nothing to do but think about boating and wait until spring when we can actually go boating. Most of our use will be weekend day cruising, over-nighting at the marina. I welcome any thoughts from members of the Forum on how tough would it be to add heat/ac? I think this is going to be a long winter thinking....thinking....thinking.
 
saopm said:
I don't remember the eBay seller name for the water pressure sensor. Also I bought tha IAC from rock auto as a back up but never had to install it. I wouldn't be surprised if they both came from the same supplier. Mercruiser is known for their price mark-ups.
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I took my worn out, not working IAC down to NAPA and they matched it. Put it in and good to go. I had to replace the other one as well so now both motors are running NAPA IAC's. I think I paid just south of $40 for it.
 
So on my windlass, all I need to do is apply a small amount of pressure on the spring arm when the chain transitions to rope and I'm good. I think the splice is a little worn. Not sure if I should attempt to redue or just walk up front and help it along some. Everywhere else the windlass is perfect.
 
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The splice is a little worn but the line feels somewhat soft still. I tried burning the fringes down.
 
Still having intermittent problems with the left switch panel. Luckily, the trim tabs work at all times, and I have a bilge lower switch with the genny switch in the cabin power panel. Just a little inconvenient having to go to the panel to turn the blower on and off. Has anyone disassembled a switchpad? I'm pretty good at doing intricate dis-assembly and repairing components. I just took apart the windlass solenoid control box, in the anchor rode compartment. Dirty contacts were causing the down switch to be hit and miss. After cleaning the contacts it works like a charm. Not a hard job at all. Anyway, any advice on fixing a switch panel, if it really should be the cause of the problem?
 
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SAshton said:
So on my windlass, all I need to do is apply a small amount of pressure on the spring arm when the chain transitions to rope and I'm good. I think the splice is a little worn. Not sure if I should attempt to redue or just walk up front and help it along some. Everywhere else the windlass is perfect.
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I changed the spring, replaced the rode with new chain and 8-plait line, and also the gypsy, and I still have to apply some pressure on the finger with the side of my foot. It's not as bad with the new rode, and I can back it up a few inches and it will usually catch on the second attempt, when retrieving the anchor from the helm.
 
Danny Troy said:
I changed the spring, replaced the rode with new chain and 8-plait line, and also the gypsy, and I still have to apply some pressure on the finger with the side of my foot. It's not as bad with the new rode, and I can back it up a few inches and it will usually catch on the second attempt, when retrieving the anchor from the helm.
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Exactly, and this appears to be everybody's issue as well. The whole idea of a windlass is to be able to retrieve the anchor without leaving the helm. This can get sketchy solo boating in rough conditions.

I told Imtra all they had to do was make a stronger spring and all their slightly worn parts would keep on working. He says they get this same complaint all the time. Whoever can manufacture a stronger spring for these units I'm sure will sell all they can make.
 
scoflaw said:
Exactly, and this appears to be everybody's issue as well. The whole idea of a windlass is to be able to retrieve the anchor without leaving the helm. This can get sketchy solo boating in rough conditions.

I told Imtra all they had to do was make a stronger spring and all their slightly worn parts would keep on working. He says they get this same complaint all the time. Whoever can manufacture a stronger spring for these units I'm sure will sell all they can make.
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This is something, that given 5 minutes of brainstorming, someone (possibly myself) can fabricate an add-on spring. All you need is a spring that mimics what we are doing when we apply pressure to the side of the finger. Maybe a job for me for the next boating season. Since I'm hauling tomorrow, it's all over for me for this season!
 
My starboard outdrive steering shaft/gimbal ring may be required to replace due to increased play. Does anyone have experience with the repair/replacement? Is it a repair which can be made in the water or must it be out. Also, any idea on costs for work to be carried out? Thanks.



 
This is the same repair JR Marine has a video of. Steering pin seal repair. Boat out for sure, labor intensive for a DIY, or big bucks for someone else to do it for you. JR has plenty of detail for you. Google that up
 
scoflaw said:
This is the same repair JR Marine has a video of. Steering pin seal repair. Boat out for sure, labor intensive for a DIY, or big bucks for someone else to do it for you. JR has plenty of detail for you. Google that up
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Scoflaw, Thanks for that. Unfortunately beyond my abilities so I'll be coughing up some dough I suppose. Thanks again.
 
Loose Cannon said:
I just had this repair completed including gimbal ring, shift cable, bellows, etc. for $1900.00 at a Merc.-authorized marina. Bilge is now completely dry.
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Loose Cannon, Thanks for the input gives me an idea what I am getting into and will help when seeing an estimate. Thanks again.
 
The JR Marine kit is a shortcut, and the drive doesn't have to be removed. That said, it doesn't look at all like a fun job, and I can see someone abandoning the job and calling in a mechanic to finish the job using the removal method. If you're interested here's a link to the step-by-step repair. There may be a video on this out there also....
http://www.jrmarine.com/instructions.htm
 
West marine has the magma Cabo gas grille on Black Friday for 119. I'm tossed between the pedestal mount under swim platform setup or can I get a mount for the rear grab rail and still have full ladder access for the kids. Recommendations? Also for a grill bag. The magma ones are 60.00 and I'm sore there's something much cheaper. Thanks.
 
I was going to do the rear grab handle but went with the pedestal for the room to stand. Standing in front of the grill mounted on the handle leaves a small amount of space on the platform. I also want to build a prep table that attaches to the upper grab rail behind the aft backrest for a place to put finished foods, snacks, etc. Our dining table is fine for sitting at for a meal but during the day it takes up a ton of space in the cockpit.

Just like in this thread: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/73084-grill-prep-table/page3

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